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Brakes are grinding - not pads
1978 300D
I'm getting grinding sounds when I brake at slow speeds. I haven't done anything to the brake system, and I've checked the pads and they're good. I've read stuff on here about sanding down the rotors and/or the pads. I guess it comes from a smoothness of the two? Any thoughts on what the griding is and how I can fix it? Last edited by conor; 10-03-2007 at 02:15 PM. |
#2
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It could be a bad wheel bearing. They will sometimes make a grinding sound during brake application.
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#3
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it also could be the rear e-brake shoes dragging. be sure and pull the rear rotors and inspect the e-brake shoes.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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I have the same thing, I'll check bearings and probably have the rotors turned. Sometimes after some hard braking the rotors sill get hard spots and that can make a noise, as well as eat grooves in your pads.
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RIP: 80 300SD RIP: 79 450SEL 2002 E430 4matic (212,000km) 2002 ML500 'sport' ____________________________ FACEBOOK: PANZER450 |
#5
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Interesting. I have the same issue with my 126 - Just replaced everything brake related and I have a similar grinding sound. Are there any other symptoms of bad wheel bearings?
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'87 SDL -240k - Previously "Herman" - Now "Roland" (Head issues) '82 300D - 235k - "Gretchen" |
#6
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It was the left rear inside pad. So I need to replace it. I got it out without moving the piston - how do you move the piston back?
Last edited by conor; 10-03-2007 at 03:53 PM. |
#7
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To move the piston in, use a vice grips or channel locks and the old pad, grip against the caliper, and squeeze the pad in toward the caliper. It may make it easier to pop the cap on your break fluid reservoir (to allow the pressure to get out).
Other people have suggested using a thick heavy screwdriver and using it as a lever to push the piston and pad back in, but I have never done it that way, so I don't quite know how that goes. If it is just one pad worn, either someone did an incomplete brake job (not very likely?), or you may have a piston that is sticking.
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1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles |
#8
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Just one pad wearing may indicate a stuck caliper piston. Check bearings, jack up car, and put your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position and alternately push/pull, no play allowed! Then spin to see if you hear anything.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#9
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Sure its not a dragging dust shield?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#10
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Quote:
Quote:
Big thanks |
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12 & 6 o'clock of what? Also, how do you check bearings?
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#12
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Think of an old analog clock. 12 is up top 6 is at the bottom.
When my bearings went bad, there was no play, but spinning the wheel felt and sounded like spinning a very quite ratchet wrench, and I could feel the wheel try to stop with each "click".
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#13
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So I don't have to stay up 'til midnight to check my bearings?
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#14
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#15
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well, I appreciate the help folks.
The problem looks to be a stuck piston causing the rear inside pad to wear down which caused the grinding. I've got to figure out how to fix the piston. My bad, the title should be changed as it is the pads. Any tips to fix a stuck piston? Last edited by conor; 10-03-2007 at 08:11 PM. |
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