Repacking bearings - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldan44 · #1 10-06-2007, 08:18 PM

Hey everyone,

Long time, no post. Been super busy. Time to get these projects before fall here in NE actually comes around. It was 90 today!

Since I am going to be replacing my way worn front discs I am going to repack my bearings while Im at it. They are not giving me any problems, just seems like good PM.

I have not repacked any bearings before, except for my rollerblades.

Questions:
1.) I have seen a lot of threads on the subject, is there a pictorial or DIY I have missed? I have the FSM and the Haynes, Id like another opinion.

2.) My car has 200k. Id be shocked if the bearings weren't original. Should I just skip the repack and replace them on principle if they are indeed original. Would this reduce the amount of work Id need to do significantly?

Many thanks,
dd

hangit · #2 10-06-2007, 08:27 PM

This link should help with the rear. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124RearWheelBearing

John

blindwolf · #3 10-06-2007, 08:27 PM

No, it will still take the same amount of work. I would replace them as long as it is convenient. You still have to clean and pack the new bearings before installing them.

tangofox007 · #4 10-06-2007, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blindwolf

No, it will still take the same amount of work.

Actually, it's a good bit more work, considering that the outer races need to be removed and new ones installed.

drskipper · #5 10-06-2007, 10:05 PM

Hey I just finished changing my Front discs,pads,bearrings all brand new it's great, I agree with tangofox007 it does take more time, especially if your bearrings are original, those races will be funn to take out by funnn I mean PITA I think mine were rusted on, I had to keep spraying wd40 every little bit I got it down, It requires lots of pounding if you dont have the right punch. ( I heard if you have an oversized socket or something like it you can put it in the hub to fit over the outer bearing races nicely)
I'd say change em to the new ones, The old ones probably went through some wear and tear.
Might aswell while your at the wheels, it takes a little more time but much better results.

vstech · #6 10-06-2007, 10:59 PM

best method I have for removing the races from your hubs is with a 3/8" face long drift punch, drive the race out from the opposite side, do the large race first, it's simple by comparison. the outer small end race will be a major PIA... and to put the new races back in, I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a set of race installation tools, they are aluminum plates with a handle that fits in them tapered to fit a race perfectly ya just put the race on the hub, set the tool in the race, and whack it with a hammer until the race is totally seated in the hub. simple, and the handle lets you keep the race aligned. most auto parts places will sell you the set for around 40.00 and if you don't need to do a lot of them they will refund your money when you are done with the set.

DeliveryValve · #7 10-07-2007, 02:27 AM

OK. After getting the new bearings in, what type/brand of grease do you all like to use to repack them?

tangofox007 · #8 10-07-2007, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

do the large race first, it's simple by comparison. the outer small end race will be a major PIA...

Why would the outer race be more difficult? I have always found the inner one to be more of a challenge, since you have to go through the small side of the hub to access it.

tangofox007 · #9 10-07-2007, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

OK. After getting the new bearings in, what type/brand of grease do you all like to use to repack them?

Make sure you get that special "import" wheel bearig grease. Import wheel bearings are soooooo much different than domestic wheel bearings!!!!

I really like Exxon RONEX MP.

TheDon · #10 10-07-2007, 10:54 AM

Put some dry ice on the inner races and they will pop out easier.

any wheel bearing grease rated for disc brakes. I purchased the valvoline synthetic stuff.. 7$ for a tub that will last you 20 years

dieseldan44 · #11 10-07-2007, 12:01 PM

Thanks for all the replies.

Looks like this job will be go unti I get stuck, post questions, and do a little more. Im sure itll take me multiple sessions. I dont have a good visual picture of how this goes yet, other than what I see in the FSM and Haynes. Im sure itll make more sense once Im in there.

dd

dieseldan44 · #12 10-09-2007, 11:46 PM

Took my wheels off, hung the calipers, and took wheel hubs apart. Didn't take more than an hour. Of course, there were two types of greases in the bearings...some blue stuff and some black stuff. Sweet, I would have expected nothing more...

Tomorrows task is to replace the brake discs, and start cleaning with mineral spirits. I need to buy a vise big enough to hold the hub, and a lot of mineral spirits. Ill spring for the low odor variety I think.

Ill post some pictures after tomorrows festivities...

Any tips for separating the disc from the hub?

and...why does the FSM make no mention of mandatory bearing repacking when taking the brake disc off??? Just curious.

dd

drskipper · #13 10-09-2007, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a set of race installation tools, they are aluminum plates with a handle that fits in them tapered to fit a race perfectly ya just put the race on the hub, set the tool in the race, and whack it with a hammer until the race is totally seated in the hub. simple, and the handle lets you keep the race aligned. most auto parts places will sell you the set for around 40.00 and if you don't need to do a lot of them they will refund your money when you are done with the set.

Damn I wish I knew about that before I did mine, I just used the old races and tapped with a hammer in a circle I kept worrying about the alignment and I over hammered it just to be sure lol, needless to say I wish I had that tool.

rrgrassi · #14 10-10-2007, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Any tips for separating the disc from the hub?

dd

You can bolt the wheel back on to the hub. That helps with leverage, and you will need a cheater bar. Also use some heat to soften the blue loctite.

dieseldan44 · #15 10-10-2007, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

You can bolt the wheel back on to the hub. That helps with leverage, and you will need a cheater bar. Also use some heat to soften the blue loctite.

Thats a great idea! Ive been trying to figure out how to vise it since I don't have a vise that big kickin' around my workbench at home.

So mounting it back to the wheel and then wrestling it on the floor seems like the way to go. For the re-torque when the time comes I have a vise that big at work, but Id like to only bring it once, after its clean and not spewing brake dust.

Thanks, Ill continue the battle tonight...so far so good.

Called my local MB dealer up, tube of grease, enough for two wheel bearings is 10 bucks. I'm going to go pick it up and not screw around. I know I could get a lifetime supply for 7 bucks by buying whatever at AZ, but with any luck I wont be doing this again for 30k. Might as well play my best cards on the first hand.

dd