Well I'm still waiting on Royal Mail to deliver my 15mm hose. Ebay item number 271126111020 is four days late and I'm getting ticked off. Next time I'd pay an extra five bucks and get it from this place...

https://www.belmetric.com/rh15hp-smooth-high-pressure-15mm-p-962.html

In fact, if I don't hear back from the seller tomorrow, I'm going to cancel that order and get it from belmetric anyway.

I have everything else ready to do the job. Diamond cutting blades for my dremel knockoff, Oetiker clamps, and the time to do it...but no hose yet.

I guess the Queen is too busy to deliver her Royal Mail...

Jim

Has anyone flared the fitting ends for better grip? That way the clamp doesn't have to be so tight, it just has to be 'smaller' than the flare. I'm guessing the don't make a beading tool small enough to work without removing the fittings.

Sixto
83 300SD

On the fittings on mine the jag at the front had a larger OD then the other Jags did. So the Tip on mine were already larger.
But, but that is not to say they are all the same; especially over different years.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Mine was the same, I was asking myself...How can the hose slide off when the clamp is tightened down smaller then the barb/jag...

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If they looked like this it wouldn't be a problem. But from what I've seen, they are a smooth wave shape, not really a barb.

http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/04/043/0431/0431668.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6

True. The barbs on the brass fitting you linked to has somewhat sharp teeth to bite into the hose making it harder to come off. Push lock fittings has even more aggressive teeth which does not require clamps ( when used with the correct hose).

Unfortunately you have to work with the barbs that you have on the cooler lines, If I were to do mine, I would glue the hose to the barb with crazy glue in addition to the clamps for extra security.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

For those that convert to 1/2" NPT to 10AN, it took me a couple of attempts before getting the NPT threads to seal. I used tape on 1 fitting and Rector Seal pipe dope on the other. Both leaked. Next I went with Permatex Thread Sealant 80633 which is carried by all of the parts stores. No more leaks but I'll check frequently until I'm comfortable and certain.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Do not discount the ideal of safety wires. This way the hose ends cannot blow off and is pretty easy to install. The problem with clamps only is as the hose material ages it softens to some degree.

Or perhaps just the outer rubber layer does. If the nipple is just a straight pipe basically the reduction of clamp tension can be signifigant with time and the harsh operation cycle.

The integrity of the oil cooler hoses on this series of cars is so important every precaution should be taken. .A straight nipple and clamps is known to be problematic sometimes. The problem being there is no way to be sure the hose material itself will not compress with time a little reducing the clamping pressure.

Do you safety wire the clamp(s)? Or do you poke a hole in the end of the hose and safety wire that?

Some Pictures.
The Tubes going to the Oil Cooler on my 617.952 clearly have front barbs that are larger in OD then the other barbs.

The Oil Cooler end fittings have barbs that appear to be the same size. However the one pictured came off of a W126 Oil Cooler Hose not a W123.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

As long as like every year check the tightness of the Clamps I don't see any reason that the hose would be able to just slip off. Especially with 2 clamps on each end. But, no matter what clamps the hose the hose is going to get compressed or shrink under the clamp.

One advantage of adjustable Clamps over the stock crimped on Collar is that as the Hose gets old and srinks you can tighen up on the Clamps to compensate for the srinkage.

But, the better advantage is that after your inital outlay for the Clamps is if you have the slightest belief that the Hose has issues is that you can cheaply and easily change the Hose.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Can Crazy Glue/Super Glue take the heat?

I degreased the barbs and smeared Silicon Sealant on them and shoved hose over the barbs. Silicon Sealant has some adhesive properties.

Back at the front of the thread someone said that there is some sort of sealant that comes in a pressurized can used for Oil Pans that is extremely adhesive. I don't remember the name of it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It also shrinks but that also happens with the crimped on collars. With the Clamps you can occasionally tighten them to compesate for srinkage.

On all Engines the Oil Cooler Hoses are a critical weak spot.

But, at the same time there is lots and lots of ad on Oil Coolers that have only a single hose barb on each of the tubes and use worm gear type clamps. They must offer at least reasonable reliability or they would not exist.

Now that there is a source of the correct sized 15mm Hose that should make the mod more reilable. I did the original mode with 5/8" ID Hose in 11-11-2007 and road around safely for 7 years and then switched over to the 15mm Hose.

I also checked the tightness of the Clamps once a year and when the hood was open or while I was under the car I inspected the hose ends during that 7 years.

So my conclusion is that the material you use, how you do the job and keeping and eye on the job afterwards are all factors that determine the results.

Notice also that 3 of the folks that had failures of simlar hose+clamp setups where mods the prior owner did.
If you buy a car from someone with the hose+clamp setup on it I think it is a good idea to replace that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Crazy glue is used to glue o-ring stocks together to make custom o-rings so I think it would take the heat.

This loctite spec shows their crazy glue service temp of 180F.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/SG_BOTTLE_PRO_tds.pdf

The Right Stuff is the sealant you are thinking of. It is a thicker body RTV that can be put into service after 1 minute. I don't know if it is stronger adhesive wise than regular RTV. I think crazy glue is stronger than it. Do your own test. Glue one up with clamps installed, let cure, take the clamps off and try to yank the hose off or pressure test it and see at what psi it blows off.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

If someone has any doubts about the specs on adhesive or other items is they can nearly always be looked up on the internet.

When I worked at a place that had the O-ring making kit we used the adhesive that came with the Kit. I would never have tried the real name brand Crazy Glue or something like you could get at walmart for that purpose.

Also we never used O-rings that we glued together on anything that got really hot or was under a lot of pressure so I don't have experience with that. And, in fact we only used the O-ring making kit when the customer was in a hurry and it would have takeng too long to get the right O-ring/s.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel