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  #1  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:48 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Cheap oil cooler hose replacement.

Cheap oil cooler hose replacement.
I ground off the crimped collars off of the oil cooler hoses on my 84 300D with a dermel tool and replaced only the rubber hoses. I cleaned and degreased the hose barbs with brake cleaner, applied silicone sealant to the barbs, slide the hoses on and double clamped them in place.
If someone is interested they can see 6 pics I took at this free pic host site: http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/Diesel911/
For some reason picture #1 is starts at the bottom.
If someone is interested in a more detailed description let me know.

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  #2  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:51 AM
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Hmm, if the hose is high quality that may be a long-lasting replacement you've got there. Hopefully when dremeling off the old crimp ends you made extra extra sure no metal powder/filings got inside the tube....
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 57k (OC - 63k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 72k - dad's (OC-75k)
'01 SL500 - 92k(km) - dad's (OC-94,000km)
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Hmm, if the hose is high quality that may be a long-lasting replacement you've got there. Hopefully when dremeling off the old crimp ends you made extra extra sure no metal powder/filings got inside the tube....
I had trouble finding suitable hose that fit. I used GoodYear Insta-Grip Hose rated at 300 psi. There is a guy on EBay that sells aftemarket oil coolers (for 4 wheelers and such) who sells the same hose for use on oil coolers.
I worried about stuff getting into the hose also. After I ground the groove in the collars and pried them off I left the old hose on and sprayed it with brake cleaner and bristle brushed it until it was clean before I pulled off the hose. This way All the metal particles should have been gone. I did not write a complete step-by-step as I was not sure if anyone would also be interedted in trying it.
I think even if some small particles got inside I feel that the oil goes back to the oil pan and that they would drop to the bottom of the pan. I also think what I did has about the same risk as getting dirt into the system when you are replacing the entire hose assemblies.
Best wishes.
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  #4  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:18 AM
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Just keep an eye on it, hoses don't just blow they give warning. I did that to my SD and AFAIK its still doing fine over a year later.

I oiled up the hose and pushed it past the lip on the hard line, and put a clamp behind the lip, then another on the barb. NFW that's coming off.
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  #5  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:54 AM
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That looks like an interesting fix, but I simply could never drive my car and be comfortable and confident that that would hold. It would simply cause me too much angst........
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2007, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Just keep an eye on it, hoses don't just blow they give warning. I did that to my SD and AFAIK its still doing fine over a year later.

I oiled up the hose and pushed it past the lip on the hard line, and put a clamp behind the lip, then another on the barb. NFW that's coming off.
Any time the hood is open is a good time to be observent.
The hose I used is rated at 300 psi so it is a long way from bursting. Before I put the hose on I degreased the tubing hose barbs with brake cleaner after which I coated them with silicone sealent. I also double clamped each hose end as you did. I am not expecting any leaks for a long time.
Besides saving money when I read some of the threads on changing the oil cooler hase assemblies. Many people reported damage to their oil coolers trying to unscrew the hose from it (when I removed one end of the hose to measure the hose barbs I found that 3 of 6 threads had been stripped). Also there is the complication (84 300D) of taking apart the engine mounts to get the old hoses out and the new ones in. It just seemed easier and safer to only replace the rubber hose. I did the job without moveing the power steering pump out of the way and it was not too much trouble with the tools that I had. Later when I removed my vaccum pump and moved the powersteering pump out of the way I realized that this would be the way to go if I ever did it again as there was a lot of room to grind off the crimped collars with the pump moved out of the way.
Best wishes.
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2007, 02:49 AM
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Think of it this way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
That looks like an interesting fix, but I simply could never drive my car and be comfortable and confident that that would hold. It would simply cause me too much angst........

Think off it this way. It is pretty much the same process as if you were adding an accessory engine or transmission oil cooler to your car or truck that did not come with an oil cooler. Most of the oil cooler kits that I have seen just have regular hose clamps to attach them to the connectors. There must be thousands of them out there doing their job with no problems.
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  #8  
Old 11-12-2007, 07:37 AM
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Diesel911, Probably true,, but mine blew off on me. Granted it was not double clamped and I didn't do it, but no thanks. The hoses weren't that expensive.
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2007, 08:58 AM
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Thumbs up

If you really can't afford $100 (for the two lines) to spare for the longevity of your motor, maybe you should drive something else. No way I'd let that be under my hood.
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:04 AM
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I agree that it probably will hold up, but I also would be too paranoid. I replaced mine with two shiny assemblies from the dealer parts counter. Cost? $221 Oh, and I needed a new oil cooler too: $307
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 101k - mine - (OC-104,600)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 24k - wifes (OC-25k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 57k (OC - 63k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 72k - dad's (OC-75k)
'01 SL500 - 92k(km) - dad's (OC-94,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 117k - Brothers (OC-125k)
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:24 AM
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I'd be a little concerned about silicon sealant getting inside the hose and blocking an oil passage somewhere. I know of a helicopter crash with multiple deaths caused by the engine rebuilder inadvertently getting sealer in an oil gallery which caused the engine to seize.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I agree that it probably will hold up, but I also would be too paranoid. I replaced mine with two shiny assemblies from the dealer parts counter. Cost? $221 Oh, and I needed a new oil cooler too: $307
You got ripped off. I just bought the two hoses and ordered an oil cooler from the local dealer for a total of $221.00. It was for the 1983 240D. The cooler is apparently "odd" in that both connections are at the bottom of the cooler. I thought that was normal, as I don't recall ever seeing them in any other arrangement. Jim
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1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:39 AM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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The 617 oil cooler retails new at the dealer for over $500, I found mine on ebay for $307 shipped. So it was a good deal....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 101k - mine - (OC-104,600)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 24k - wifes (OC-25k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 57k (OC - 63k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 72k - dad's (OC-75k)
'01 SL500 - 92k(km) - dad's (OC-94,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 117k - Brothers (OC-125k)
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  #14  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
The 617 oil cooler retails new at the dealer for over $500, I found mine on ebay for $307 shipped. So it was a good deal....
When I go pick up my cooler I will ask about the 617 version. I thought the oil cooler and radiator, and other bolt on stuff was about the same. Never owned a 617 though so that was just a guess from peering in under the hood from a distance. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #15  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:59 AM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Why buy new when you can go to a hydraulic shop and have the hose replaced, but retain your fittings?

I know this will not work if they are stripped out though.

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