Rebooting tie rod/drag link

[Shern]

Discovered a couple leaking boots where the passenger side tie rod and drag link meet. MB still sells the boot kit for about $6 a boot. Nothing fancy, just the rubber and the two retaining rings.


Anyone done this before?


Seems I need a balljoint separator and/or a pickle fork -though haven't seen one of those in action. What type of grease to use? Anything I should know?

[Diseasel300]

A press type ball joint separator is the only type that will remove the joint without destroying it. There are a couple different styles, one looks like an arch with a screw up the middle, the other looks like a set of levers and a screw on the end, the latter is a better style. A pickle fork is used when nothing else will budge it, or you're replacing the joint and just don't care. It will rip the boot and usually will deform the body of the ball joint.

Depending on how rough the joints look, you may be better off just replacing them. If they are loose or have been exposed to the elements for a while, you're time and money ahead to replace the tie rod ends, or the entire tie rod assembly.

[Sugar Bear]

Shern,

I've done it on my W124 with great results. If the current components are free of play AND the tie rod adjustment sleeves aren't seized, it maintains the OE quality, saves time and eliminates the need for an alignment. For separating the joints my preference is a scissor type separator vs. a pickle fork. The scissor type doesn't damage boots when you are reusing linkages.

The boot retaining clips are tedious to work with, wear eye protection. Order new linkage nuts while your in there.

I used a quality grease like Mobil 1 or Lucas Red n' Tacky

Good luck!!!
SB

[Shern]

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

Shern,

I've done it on my W124 with great results. If the current components are free of play AND the tie rod adjustment sleeves aren't seized, it maintains the OE quality, saves time and eliminates the need for an alignment. For separating the joints my preference is a scissor type separator vs. a pickle fork. The scissor type doesn't damage boots when you are reusing linkages.

The boot retaining clips are tedious to work with, wear eye protection. Order new linkage nuts while your in there.

I used a quality grease like Mobil 1 or Lucas Red n' Tacky

Good luck!!!
SB

Thank you gents.

SB this is exactly my thinking. Joints are in good shape, happy to avoid an alignment if possible.
Great call re: scissor style, think Oreilly's has one I can rent.

RE: linkage nuts, are you referring to the lock nuts on the drag link? There's a nut there I've not seen before.
From what I've read, it may have a cotter pin holding it together. I'm not sure what to replace this with or if possible to reuse.

[Diseasel300]

Originally Posted by Shern

RE: linkage nuts, are you referring to the lock nuts on the drag link? There's a nut there I've not seen before.
From what I've read, it may have a cotter pin holding it together. I'm not sure what to replace this with or if possible to reuse.

Castle nuts can be reused infinitely. If you're careful removing the cotter pin, you can reuse it. If you break the cotter pin, they're cheap to replace at any auto parts store.

[Shern]

Ah great, thank you.

Also, I'm assuming reassembly is done by tightening nuts until the joints are together again?

[Sugar Bear]

Concur with Diseasel...reuse castle nuts. Replace non-castle. Yes I'm referring to the nuts that secure the tie rod to the steering knuckle.

For tightening, follow the torque spec. There is usually a hex hole for a key at the tip of tie rod where the nut attaches, put a hex key in the hex hole if the shaft spins.

Good luck!!!

[Shern]

Great -one further question. Are the non-castle, standard lock nuts?

[Sugar Bear]

I'm not sure if they are exactly the same as standard lock nuts; but, I don't see a problem with using standard lock nuts. I've sourced the nuts from the dealer with the boots, it was easier and not $$$.

[Diesel911]

Autozone and other places have free rentals of in the first attached pic is the types they have the smaller one may fit tie rods. This is just some pic I grabbed of the internet.

The dark colored one if from Harbor Freight for $20 and that particular shape and type is more likely to fit.

The last type works really well but is more picky about fitting well.

[Shern]

I've no idea what to expect re: fit, but this is the one I got

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--suspension---steering-19169/7ca89b2a19e6/rental-tools-evertough-tie-rod-remover/67008/4700234

[Sugar Bear]

Not a scissor type but should work well.

[Shern]

They didn't have that type unfortunately, but they did have the grease you recommended so I am getting somewhere =)


-

[83w126]

If you use the scissor type ball joint separator, leave the nut threaded on to the end of the joint when you take them apart, they will smash the threads otherwise.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by 83w126

If you use the scissor type ball joint separator, leave the nut threaded on to the end of the joint when you take them apart, they will smash the threads otherwise.

That is a good call. But, actually any of the presses that push on the threaded end can distort the threads on it.

Heating the metal around the tapered shaft end also helps it come out easier making it less likely to mess with the threads.