Roger that.

Meanwhile, after attaching a cheater bar to the wrench, drag link finally broke loose, ending 40 years of tapered marraige.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Was this the tool that worked?: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--suspension---steering-19169/7

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That link is 404'd...

It was the press I posted on page one (same tool I've been using).
Difference was, I committed to it.

-

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

In for a penny…

Main reason I attempted a reboot was to avoid getting another alignment. That and the fact that the tie rods were in good shape.

I thought it would be an easy job. That is until Murphy paid a visit.

In any even, I found the manufacturer. Not sure it is that important to get the same brand, but will try. Mind you the Lemforder parts I have found seem expensive.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In looking for a tie-rod end on Amazon.ca, it came up with this. Same price as I paid for the unit I bought on New Years Eve! The conical unit looks like the OTC8149 unit! Too late now. Tie rod end should be here next week (hopefully)
https://tinyurl.com/26d3hw6v

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The link to the last pictured puller is bad .

Depending on price that looks like a handy set .

I dislike the blow molded boxes but what the hey .

Sometimes I get lucky and find old metal shallow boxes, I take them home and de rust then re paint them then use to store whatever special tool .

The 'swadge' (taper) fit of these and ball joints only really needs a little bit of force plus just the right harmonic shock to pop them loose .

I am still damaging threads by over torquing pullers, one of my mates always knows the *exact* amout of force to use on the 32 Oz. ball peen hammer, he sets the puller with a light load and gives it *one* smack and no matter what it is nor how rusty, it pops apart .

I'm trying to learn but still have a ways to go .

Avoid heating suspension parts unless you have a death wish .

Many (? most ?) Hot Rid shops sell nice Polyurethane generic boots that are handy to save still good original parts, I hate them because they're ugly but if you get the right one they're fantastic .

Remember to grease that old joint with long fiber (I use Lithium) grease before you install the new boot .

Getting those spiral boot retaiming springs back into place can be maddening, use some good quality Mechanic's Wire and loop it, twist the ends snug but not tight, snip off the excess wire and fold the twisted end carefully into the groove and you're good to go .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I am just in the process of doing just this. I bought the boot kit just to replace a torn boot. In Spring, maybe I will replace the tie-rods, but only if I notice wear. Don't drive the car that much.

In past. I have replaced the tie rods without any trouble, but the first end with the torn boot won't budge. I don't have a suitable puller and so far it doesn't look like our Canadian rentals do either. Anyone know off-hand what the width of fork at bottom puller should be? I guess I can measure

Other methods? Tried hammer, 2 hammers, penetrating fluid, brass punch hitting end on. Large wrench that I had ground down as a pickle fork along with an extension gave lots of leverage, but no go. Tried hammering same picklefork-cum wrench - still no go.

I will see if another shop loans a suitable puller. But first may try heat. May have to buy one! At 85, I resist buying even more tools!

And I thought this would be a 30 minute job! (it is only 4C in my garage!)

THis is a puller I could buy locally

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I used a tool similar to the one used in this video but loosen the but bring loose nut to the top of the threads to keep the tool from distorting the top threads and shaft end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqHjvIlqfH8

If it fits the one you show in your picture may work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I checked the puller in my first post.(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0uaw5qw9lkd27o5lghdse/puller-tie-rods.JPG?rlkey=g6wz15kqmol6ekst29bak6zx7&dl=1)

The opening on that OEMTools puller is 1 1/16" while the steering arm boss is about 1 3/16". Not enough to grip! They do list but do not stock a smaller puller that looks about the same. I think it has a 15/16" opening. It might have worked but is not available here (on New Years Eve!)

Our equivalent of Harbor Freight, Princess Auto had several types from Performance Tools. Mostly bad reviews! Their equivalent to above type also had a wide opening (1 1/8") The had one similar to the one I bought, but I went with the OEMTools one, because they were closer and time was running short!

Now I have to go and try to get the tool to work!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I have sets to rent out. But most auto parts stores have sets to rent locally.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

None of the shops here have this type of tool for loan. I bought one instead.

What I have found, is that neither of the two positions for the lever are good. One of them does not allow the tool to fit at all over the threaded end. Using the other position, the tool can sort of be used, but it really needs a spacer on top of the threaded end.

I gave up for the day and left it under tension. But I think I need to find some sort of spacer that will push just on the end of the bolt.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Some of those tools come with a short and a longer bolt.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It's not the puller bolt length that is a problem. It's the tie rod bolt that is too short! As a result the lever does not push straight down. I will try and devise a spacer to level the lever.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

???? Wrong thread?