Roger that.

Meanwhile, after attaching a cheater bar to the wrench, drag link finally broke loose, ending 40 years of tapered marraige.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Was this the tool that worked?: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--suspension---steering-19169/7

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That link is 404'd...

It was the press I posted on page one (same tool I've been using).
Difference was, I committed to it.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I am just in the process of doing just this. I bought the boot kit just to replace a torn boot. In Spring, maybe I will replace the tie-rods, but only if I notice wear. Don't drive the car that much.

In past. I have replaced the tie rods without any trouble, but the first end with the torn boot won't budge. I don't have a suitable puller and so far it doesn't look like our Canadian rentals do either. Anyone know off-hand what the width of fork at bottom puller should be? I guess I can measure

Other methods? Tried hammer, 2 hammers, penetrating fluid, brass punch hitting end on. Large wrench that I had ground down as a pickle fork along with an extension gave lots of leverage, but no go. Tried hammering same picklefork-cum wrench - still no go.

I will see if another shop loans a suitable puller. But first may try heat. May have to buy one! At 85, I resist buying even more tools!

And I thought this would be a 30 minute job! (it is only 4C in my garage!)

THis is a puller I could buy locally

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

???? Wrong thread?

I used a tool similar to the one used in this video but loosen the but bring loose nut to the top of the threads to keep the tool from distorting the top threads and shaft end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqHjvIlqfH8

If it fits the one you show in your picture may work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have sets to rent out. But most auto parts stores have sets to rent locally.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

None of the shops here have this type of tool for loan. I bought one instead.

What I have found, is that neither of the two positions for the lever are good. One of them does not allow the tool to fit at all over the threaded end. Using the other position, the tool can sort of be used, but it really needs a spacer on top of the threaded end.

I gave up for the day and left it under tension. But I think I need to find some sort of spacer that will push just on the end of the bolt.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Some of those tools come with a short and a longer bolt.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It's not the puller bolt length that is a problem. It's the tie rod bolt that is too short! As a result the lever does not push straight down. I will try and devise a spacer to level the lever.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I checked the puller in my first post.(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0uaw5qw9lkd27o5lghdse/puller-tie-rods.JPG?rlkey=g6wz15kqmol6ekst29bak6zx7&dl=1)

The opening on that OEMTools puller is 1 1/16" while the steering arm boss is about 1 3/16". Not enough to grip! They do list but do not stock a smaller puller that looks about the same. I think it has a 15/16" opening. It might have worked but is not available here (on New Years Eve!)

Our equivalent of Harbor Freight, Princess Auto had several types from Performance Tools. Mostly bad reviews! Their equivalent to above type also had a wide opening (1 1/8") The had one similar to the one I bought, but I went with the OEMTools one, because they were closer and time was running short!

Now I have to go and try to get the tool to work!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

So I get the stuck tie-rod end off!

I left the tool on all night along with penetrating fluid.
Still stuck in morning, so I cranked it up as much as I dared - still no go.
Heated the boss with propane and cranked it up a bit more - still no go.
Cranked another 1/4 turn. No go, so I hit the tool above the tie-rod bolt with hammer.
It took a few seconds and then popped loose!

The other end came off easy!

In this process, the tie-rod bolt thread had got damaged, and the heat had cooked the ball joint. So gave up on the original re-booting plan.

Now I need to decide whether to change just the one end or the complete tie-rod.

If available, it would be good to get an end of same make. Anyone recognize the logo?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In for a penny…

Main reason I attempted a reboot was to avoid getting another alignment. That and the fact that the tie rods were in good shape.

I thought it would be an easy job. That is until Murphy paid a visit.

In any even, I found the manufacturer. Not sure it is that important to get the same brand, but will try. Mind you the Lemforder parts I have found seem expensive.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In looking for a tie-rod end on Amazon.ca, it came up with this. Same price as I paid for the unit I bought on New Years Eve! The conical unit looks like the OTC8149 unit! Too late now. Tie rod end should be here next week (hopefully)
https://tinyurl.com/26d3hw6v

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5