Thanks all - fun and easy job.
The most difficult part was winding those GD spiral rings around the boots.
Thumbs are killing me.

In general this seems a solid pre-emptive strategy for preserving suspension ball joints.
Thinking I'll go ahead and reboot the remaining rubber while I'm at it.

FYI, the boot kit 0003300485 is the same for both tie rod ends and the center drag link.
If you plan on tackling this job, you'll need six in total.

Approx $38 to preserve the OEM gear and avoid an alignment?

Not bad.

--

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

You usually do not need a puller to remove tie rods. Loosen the nut, use a bar to apply pressure (frequently not needed) then smack the knuckle.

You can skip to ~ 1.55 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NCklnSaYec

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Might try this next time... the tie rod came easy, however the drag link required a fair bit of pressure from the puller.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Peoples experiences at that seem to vary. If you can get the free tie rod press it nearly guarantees success and without damage.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This method depends entirely on how long the joint has been installed and how tightly it was fastened. On really old joints or ones that have been grossly overtorqued, I've had a 0% success rate at separating ball joints or tie rod ends using the "Load and whack" method. Properly torqued, or joints that have been previously removed usually come right out.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

This video shows a way of dealing with the spiral spring however the joint is not installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7rdCB7ofm4&app=desktop

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yep, I found that in my research. Still found it very tricky...

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Had another boot tear so figured I’d finish the job and reboot everything.
Ball joints seem to be okay, some a little tighter than others, but fortunately no play.

Now, I cannot for the life of me get the other side of the drag link popped. I’m talking the side connected to the pitman arm. I’ve got a puller (same I posted on page 1), and actually had the thing so tight I could to longer tighten it with a plain old box wrench. No movement save for the gradual distortion of threads.

Is there a better method here? No clearance to swing a hammer.
Another style puller?
Magic?
The Force?

$!?@&$!!!!

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I hate those spiral retaining rigs too Sherm....

Some times you have to hit the eye portion of the link to shock the pivot loose, try this with the too lightly snugged up and as mentioned always have the nut loosely installed so you don't damage the threads .

Castle nuts are indefinitely re usable, I'd buy some new cotter pins, if you hunt around there are American made assortments, often cheapest from military surplus places .

FWIW, I prefer the typ of tool you got but there are many different ones out there, my favorite was a BMW specd one until I was careless and bent the threaded bolt, I'm still looking for this exact tool as it fit better than any other I've ever found .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You can try soaking in penetrating oil and let it sit over night. Some might use heat from a torch but I'd hold off on that as you don't want to cook the grease since you are reusing the hardware.

You could try leaving it preloaded with the tool then tap on it with a hammer, since it sounds like there isn't much clearance, you'll probably only get baby taps but the vibration will help break up any corrosion or galling. You can use a drift punch to reach the joint. A brass punch will cause less cosmetic damage but since you can whack the joint pretty hard with a hammer it isn't necessary.

If you have access to an air compressor, you can use an air hammer or air chisel with a rounded tool to knock it loose while it's preloaded. You can look up South Main Auto big nasty on YouTube to see how fast it works.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

You can try loading the separator up to the maximum pressure and let it sit, just walk away. Sometimes they slowly break loose, you will hear it break loose.

Could also try loading the pressure and striking exterior of the part that the tapered shaft goes through. Be careful doing this, the separation could be sudden with the puller flying at you.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Thanks all -Have loaded and hosed with PB blaster.

This one is in a very awkward position. I've barely enough clearance to get the 19mm around the adjuster nut (tapered shaft pointing upward).

Considering going back to the rental desk and trying a different tool.
When using a picklefork, is the only danger in damaging the boot?
Obviously not an issue here as I am rebooting, but any other issues? Wouldn't want to damage the ball joint...

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I've never observed a problem other than boot damage from pickle forks; but, I'm usually replacing the joint when using a pickle fork so I probably wouldn't have known if there was damage. About the awkward position, would turning the steering help? I realize you've thought of that but it's worth mentioning.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

God I hate these spiral rings.
I put a pin hole in one of the new boots.

Is there anything to be done for this or do I need to buy yet another new boot?

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Make sure the surface is clean and grease free, then place a little dab of black urethane sealant over the hole. If it bonds properly leave it be.