Cheap oil cooler hose replacement. - Page 20 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #**286** 06-26-2023, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gox777

I'm planning to do this job in the coming weeks. Here's my materials list so far:

Hose:
Cohline #2633.1300
3 ft total length. Currently out of stock from Belmetric. Hoping that changes soon so that I don't have to pay extra buying overseas.

Clamps:
Oetiker 16700029
2 for each connection point, total of 8.

Clamp Installer tool:
Oetiker 14100396

The only thing I'm a little unclear on is if there is a consensus for the best sealant to use on the nipples before installing new hoses. I read Loctite 404 was discussed earlier in the thread. Any thoughts on whether that's my best option?

My plan will be to remove the old hoses fully and bench install. I'm doing motor mounts at the same time, as well as replacing radiator and pretty much the entire cooling system. (Although I do intend to reuse the oil cooler). Any tips?

Unscrewing the hose fitting ends from the oil cooler can strip the aluminum threads off of the oil cooler. On my 84 300D there is a fix for that but it requires cutting off the threaded area of the oil cooler, drilling and tapping it for the repair fitting.

Cohline, some of the members have said you can buy it from Porsche dealers and that it is cheaper there. I don't have personal experience with buying there.

There is no consensus on sealant to use on the oil cooler hose tubing nipples. They do need to be oil/grease free before application of the sealant. More importantly the hoses need to be properly indexed before you tighten the clamps down or the sealant cures.

On an 84 300D the oil cooler hose is: 15mm I.D Oil Pressure Cooler Hose Type 2633.1300

I don't have an offhand memory of what clamps to use so won't comment on that.

ROLLGUY · #**287** 06-26-2023, 09:50 AM

A few ebay sellers have the hose in stock.

Gox777 · #**288** 06-26-2023, 11:47 AM

Hmm so it sounds like I should try to do this without taking the metal parts of the lines out due to risk of stripping threads. I don't imagine getting the clamps on will be easy, but I'll give it a try.

There are two Porsche dealerships in Orlando so I suppose it's worth a try calling them. I'll report back on whether the Porsche option works out.

Diesel911 · #**289** 06-26-2023, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gox777

Hmm so it sounds like I should try to do this without taking the metal parts of the lines out due to risk of stripping threads. I don't imagine getting the clamps on will be easy, but I'll give it a try.

There are two Porsche dealerships in Orlando so I suppose it's worth a try calling them. I'll report back on whether the Porsche option works out.

It is your choice.

Keep track which each line goes to.

The bottom end of the lines when you remove the steel crimped collars the hose comes off. After that you can remove the while oil cooler with the lines attached and have more room to work when it is out. Again, that is on my 84 300D.

I used the Oetiker clamps on the oil cooler end. But I was using a nail cutter pliers to do the crimping. When tried to use the Oetiker clamps on the bottom I could not use the nail cutter pliers as there was no room. The real tool has a part to use the side of the jaws to do the crimping. Since I did not have one, I cannot tell for sure if there is room to do that either.

The short story for me is since I could not use the clamps, I used Norma's type of worm gear hose clamps.

Diesel911 · #**290** 06-26-2023, 12:46 PM

Hose clamp tool.
In the site the side jaws on the clamp tool allow it to go into a different piston compared to the nail cutter.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/3295.JPG

Another way to remove the lines with the Oil Cooler as a unit is to go under an remove the oil line bracket. Thin I think it is a 27mm open ends wrench and use it as a counter hold on the oil filter housing fittings. Hold that and remove the Oil Cooler hoses at the oil filter.

I did not do that either. However, I think others have done it. As you pull out the oil cooler from a lot of oil is going to come out of the hoses.

I think some people said you can remove the front grill and the oil cooler and hoses can be pulled out forward. But again, I did not do it that way.

Gox777 · #**291** 07-12-2023, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Unscrewing the hose fitting ends from the oil cooler can strip the aluminum threads off of the oil cooler. On my 84 300D there is a fix for that but it requires cutting off the threaded area of the oil cooler, drilling and tapping it for the repair fitting.

Cohline, some of the members have said you can buy it from Porsche dealers and that it is cheaper there. I don't have personal experience with buying there.

There is no consensus on sealant to use on the oil cooler hose tubing nipples. They do need to be oil/grease free before application of the sealant. More importantly the hoses need to be properly indexed before you tighten the clamps down or the sealant cures.

On an 84 300D the oil cooler hose is: 15mm I.D Oil Pressure Cooler Hose Type 2633.1300

I don't have an offhand memory of what clamps to use so won't comment on that.

Can you clarify what "properly indexed" means?

Thanks for the tip on the tool. I'm hoping to fit the Oetiker clamps on both sides of both hoses. This is what I ended up ordering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJ6LYHP?psc=1&smid=A3TX3Z5Z5OFI4X&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

On the matter of sealant, I'm leaning toward Loctite 480 as it specifically lists "metal to rubber" as an ideal application. It says it has "high resistance to shock", a higher operating temp range (212F), and is slightly cheaper than the 404.

EDIT: Actually scratch that. Loctite 480 only has a temp range up to 212F. Loctite 404 is worse, only up to 180F. Loctite 402 looks to be a winner, with temp range up to 275F.

I'm thinking I'll make a video about all of this when I go to do the job.

Diesel911 · #**292** 07-12-2023, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gox777

Can you clarify what "properly indexed" means?

Thanks for the tip on the tool. I'm hoping to fit the Oetiker clamps on both sides of both hoses. This is what I ended up ordering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJ6LYHP?psc=1&smid=A3TX3Z5Z5OFI4X&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

On the matter of sealant, I'm leaning toward Loctite 480 as it specifically lists "metal to rubber" as an ideal application. It says it has "high resistance to shock", a higher operating temp range (212F), and is slightly cheaper than the 404.

EDIT: Actually scratch that. Loctite 480 only has a temp range up to 212F. Loctite 404 is worse, only up to 180F. Loctite 402 looks to be a winner, with temp range up to 275F.

I'm thinking I'll make a video about all of this when I go to do the job.

I can't verbally explain the indexing thing. I would be sure the metal parts of the hoses and the metal hose ends hose end up in the same positions as they originally before they are glued and clamped.

I have never used any of the Loctite products mentioned so I cannot comment on them.

Shern · #**293** 07-13-2023, 04:55 AM

Properly indexed just means not crimped together randomly like a garden hose.
Let’s say the fittings at the oil cooler end are at 6am (arbitrary)and say you crimped the pipe fittings on the new hose at noon, you wouldn’t be able to reconnect the hoses.

The hose is the hose, but the fittings need to be clocked in the right direction before they’re crimped as they will not rotate after the fact. You’ll need to mark them.