Your choice on there.

This is an all together different situation. This Guy used Contestant Tension Clamps on the Air intake Tubes of Big Rig Diesel. The Aluminum Tubes were 4-6 inches in diameter and long with Rubber Sleeves and Elbows held by the mentioned Clamps.

The Big Rig Trucks vibrate more than just a little and His Air Intake System came apart on the Road.

The Intake came apart because the vibration was harsh enough to compress the springs on the Constant Tension Clamps and during compression of the Springs the Clamps are momentarily loose. And, on that type of Truck there is millions of vibrations as you go down the Road on a long haul.

For the Air Intake application the regular Worm Gear Clamps have better reliability.

I always remember that becaue the Guy pulled into our Shop with the Intake Falling apart.

I doubt if the Mercedes vibrates enough for that to be an issue.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'd have to go check what kind of hose, or it may be in my conversion thread. I remember it was pretty seriously over-spec'd for this application. I can get my oil cooler hoses off without stripping anything(knock on wood, that was true a year ago), I will definitely look into Oetiker clamps. A quick Googling shows that the clamps and crimping tool would be less expensive than brazing on the JIC fittings and having lines fabbed up.

Thank you!

Edit: I do like the idea of switching to JIC, mostly because they're standard universal parts and any hydraulic shop in the country can make me replacements, should I need it. I did exactly this with my power steering and it's holding power steering pressures just fine.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I think you may be referring to a different type of spring clamps. This is the type that VW uses throughout:

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+spring+clamps&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=nep4U-CcBbLOsAThm4HgCQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=911&bih=416#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=qrlTMHvcx-9EuM%253A%3BVRAgCnb_c29xiM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.samstagsales.com%252Fimages%252Fhz798-10clamp.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.samstagsales.com%252Fvwaudi2.htm%3B314%3B284

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

So i bought/installed the Tructec oil cooler hoses 4 months ago .they are already leaking/seeping/weeeping of the ferrule at the oil cooler connectors.

Ugh!

I'm thinking of trying this double hose clamp fix and using the existing tructec hose.
Just dremeling the existing Tructec hose connector/collars off. I have the original MB hose hose connectors. do you think its ok to use the existing tructec hose?

i have good Norma stainless clamps.

See the Pic I have a large and small Nail Cutter one was $2 and a small one that was .98 Cents and also picked up a Tile Nipper for $4.
The Tile Nipper needed less effort as the Handles had some contour to them and were slightly longer.

Both of the Nail Cutters have straight Handles. Also you may or may not need to grind the outer face of the Nail Cutter as the cheap ones don't really have the proper face/edge shape on the for cutting Nails flush.
I tried all of them and they all worked but the lack the surface on the side to do the parallel crimps on the Oetiker Clamps.

I also used the Oetiker type Clamps on My Mother Water Heater Hoses on Here House. I used the Oetiker type Clamps in the section with the PEX Tubing at Home Depot.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I can only vouch for what I have done and give reference to what others have done.
There is at least 3 very good Oil Cooler Hose threads and a variety of solutions.

I have no idea what the Hose Barbs look like on Trucktec Lines and have not measured them so there is no way to predict what issues or lack of issues there would be.

If you do it take some pics and add to one of the Hose threads or start your own thread.

It could be that the Trucktec Nipple ends might have some size difference that gives them and advantage.
The main part of the Mercedes Line Nipples is about 15mm with the front Barb being about 16mm. That front 16mm Barb prevented Me from stretching 1/2" ID Hose over the Barb and 5/8" ID Hose was barly tight as it slippedover the 16mm Barb meaning it is loose over the 15mm area.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have only see those on Fuel Lines so I don't know what they are capable of.
Because the metal on them is thin if not Stainless Steel they can Rust through.

There is a bunch of Sring Clamps out there.
In the Pics Single Wire Hose Clamp would certainly keep the Hose from coming off the Bar but in an Oil Cooler Hose would it seal well and when used on Heater Hoses they really go deep into the Hose over time.

The Double Wire Hose clamp in the other pic is a better compromise concerning sealing and not cutting into the Hose.

What none of the Spring Clamps have is a large Range of Hose sizes they could be used on compared to worm gear type clamps.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I don't think spring clamps like the ones pictured would hold oil cooler lines. I wouldn't risk my engine with them.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

For all the talk about cheap hoses, manual clamps and so forth, I'd like to just take a moment to refocus the discussion on the fact that the cooler lines are one of the most critical components on the car. A failed hose or clamp will dump the oil in a matter of a few seconds and the entire engine can fail in a few seconds after that. About the only other "maintenance" thing that can take out an engine quicker is a failed timing chain and almost no one talks about using a cheap Chinese chain any more.

There's a big difference between an emergency fix to get a vehicle to a place it can be repaired properly and a "permanent cheap fix".

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Maybe so. I was suggesting to use one worm clamp and one spring clamp.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I am not recommending them.
But, at one time the Single Wire Hose Clamps came on US Cars typically on the Heater Hoses and if there is any sort of large end on the Hose Barb you are definitely not yanking the Hose off if the Camp is there.

It is difficult to pull the Hose of even after you have pinched the Spring together to relieve the Tension on the Spring.

That particular Clamp pretty much presses 1/2 way through a Heater Hose if not further and leaves a deep groove in the Hose over time.

I have never seen the Double Spring Clamps on anything so I cannot comment on them

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am thinking of doing this on my 300SD with seeping lines. I don't want to risk stripping anything, making me have to buy a new oil cooler.

With the right type of hose, it looks like this fix works really well.

From what I can remember the 2 Members who had the Clamped on Oil Cooler Hoses come off or leak badly were People who bought the Car with the Hoses already like that.
If someone buys a Car with the Hoses already Like that it could be a good idea to replace them with some new lengths of Hose.

I cannot recall of anyone who did it themselves who had a Failure But, if there was a failure I hope they would Post and talke about it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Just did this job on my 300SD using the Aeroquip FBV1000 hose and the Norma clamps from eBay. I got one hose done today and will get the other done tomorrow.

I basically did the same thing that cooljjay did.

Getting that metal ground off and the old hose removed was a PITA.

I drove around for about 15 minutes to let the engine warm up and found no leaks. I'll upload some pics when I'm finished.

I also replaced as cooljay did used 2 quality clamps on each end of parker hoses rated for about 350 psi and have had not a bit of seepage past yr. very satisfied with fix not worried about hoses coming off.