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#16
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JimmyL you crack me up.
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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed. 1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver. 1977 U1000 Unimog 2007 Ram 2500 6.7l |
#17
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What your mechanic did is BAD. I'd put that back into working order right away. That is there to prevent overboost fueling and damage to the engine in the case of a waste gate failure on the turbo. Your "mechanic" doesn't know what he's doing! (Or he does, and thats even worse!)
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#18
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Mine has been, (CD) I don't know for how long before me, but I've owned it for six years. An MB mechanic spotted it and mentioned that's not the first one bypassed. He wasn't concerned about it. This came from someone that usually will explain you need something that you don't.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#19
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dan u are the man,cleaned out the hose and valve and didnt get much debris out,the sender looking thingy had alot of carbon on it... but what a difference,forgot how much power the car had ...ty again sir
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#20
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Adjust your linkage yet?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#21
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For general consideration, here's what Stu Ritter and Richard Easley had to say about this bypass issue all those years ago in a FAQ on the old Mercedes-Benz Discussion List hosted on some Baylor U server, which many of you may remember (I assume there are lots of connections between that list and this forum):
"An important point to remember regarding the overboost sensor switch is that there is a 'reverse' release or venting that takes place which is important. When the car is decelerating, you still have a lot of boost which is not needed. During this time, you don't need the accompanying fuel that would normally be injected at a given boost level (due to receiving 'false' information on boost 'needs'). The overboost sensor switch vents the boost at this point so that the injection pump is not getting the signal to continue fuel flow at that particular boost level. This is specifically noted here since it has been noted that these switches are bypassed by unknowing do-it-yourselfers who, in addition to causing the engine to consume excess fuel during deceleration, put their engines in jeopardy by removing this catastrophic failure device." We can probably safely assume they meant "catastrophic failure prevention device," but the point is well taken.
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116, 123 (3), 124 |
#22
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Quote:
1. It's not listed anywhere in the FSM as having that functionality. 2. Pre 85/cali 84 there is no way the system can know that. 3. As soon as you let your foot off the pedal the boost disappears. 4. No one has had a problem with it yet. Sounds like someone was applying gasser technology to diesels...... Easley also recommends the bubble method for timing which is horribly inaccurate. Of course some of this other write ups are priceless. Not that I recommend by passing it but there are plenty of people who are running no waste gate hose at all, including myself once on accident. I realized this on a 300mile trip when the car seems to be laboring more than normal. These pumps just don't put out enough fuel.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#23
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So there is no downside at all to bypassing that switch, it's perfectly safe?
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116, 123 (3), 124 |
#24
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Ideally it should be left in place....the engineers wouldn't have put it there if it served no purpose.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#25
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Quote:
I'd still like to know, though, why it is that in a "Pre 85/cali 84 there is no way the system can know that," and "As soon as you let your foot off the pedal the boost disappears," as winmutt put it. Not that I'm doubting these are true; I'd just like to know.
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116, 123 (3), 124 |
#26
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Quote:
Only the 85 all/84 cali cars had rack and linkage position senors, I don't see any other way for easley's claim to be true. How would the car know it was slowing, electronically?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#27
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Quote:
However, the real blast came after following advice from Brian Carlton elsewhere on this Forum (in the "It's CRITICAL" thread, I believe, at to plug the vacuum supply to the EGR and the Air Recirculating Valve (approx name?) there at the front of the turbo. Prior to this, the car felt like it made boost way too late and dumped it way too early, taking forever to build off the line and kinda narrating the whole affair with a lot of whistling, as if to mock you about how much turbo functionality you were just venting into the wind. In my case, the boost-wasting villain is the ARV valve. Originally, I disconnected the vacuum lines to the ARV and the ERG both, and stuck golf tees into the rubber elbows coming out of them. Then I test drove the car. I mean, then I test drove the NEW car. Wow. Not only was the acceleration dramatically improved, the shifting now churned butter-smooth and on time, especially the 1-2 shift. And the mocking whistle stopped too! After further experimentation I determined the difference-maker was the ARV valve. Plugging both made the improvements. Reconnecting the EGR and plugging only the ARV made the same improvements. Reconnecting the ARV and plugging only the EGR made no improvements. Reconnecting both obviously left it in its original pitiful state, no improvements. So you might try this little procedure. Nothing like getting a new world of performance with two golf tees! Use your favorite colors, get fancy! For longer-term solutions, Carlton et al. fabricated some blocking plate kits some years ago, per the http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=92534&highlight=egr+kit thread. Does anyone know whether these are still around/available? Also, I understand the ARV ultimately functions to signal the EGR, so is it possible the EGR is still what's falling down? Are there any downsides to completely disabling the ARV and the EGR? Thanks gentlemens.
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116, 123 (3), 124 |
#28
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Said engineers need to justify their existence.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#29
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Quote:
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#30
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Quote:
Again, though, tell me the condition of the veneer on the wood trim is controlled by vacuum and I’ll reach for the MityVac and look for a line to test. Anyway, thanks again. Perhaps the overboost sensor switch should be renamed after the great Kinks song about “…the destroyaaah.” The “overboost paranoia switch?”
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116, 123 (3), 124 |
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