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  #1  
Old 05-11-2008, 09:52 AM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
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Should I install "this" hitch on my diesel wagon?

I want to install a hitch to pull a trailer for hauling biodiesel and fire wood with my w123 wagon.

Here's the one I was thinking of buying:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000366854/mediaCode-ZX/appId-10614520/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:10000036685410614520

If there are any better options out there, let me know.

I think the 2,500 lb. limit would be fine. I also have a hitch mount bike rack that would work with the one I linked, although it has an adapter to use it with a 2" hitch too.

Is a 1-1/4" square hitch adequate, or would there be advantages to having a 2" square hitch? I had a 2" square hitch on my Explorer, but I only ever used it for the bike rack.

I know I'll need to add a brake light hookup for the trailer.

I'm also thinking that when I install the hitch, the holes that will be drilled in the frame will be exposed metal. I was thinking of coating them with POR-15 before I attach the hitch.

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2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2008, 10:02 AM
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My dad's 4Runner has a 1-1/4" receiver, he pulls his boat fine, has one of those basket platform things that mounts to the receiver, puts a lawnmower and other stuff on there. The only difference between the two that he was looking at w250 lb tongue weight vs. 350 for the 2", and 2500 lbs towing vs. 3500 lbs for the 2". If those two meet your criteria, there shouldn't be any problems.

Have you looked at Cabellas? A friend just got one there for a volvo wagon for around 100 bucks.
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2008, 11:54 AM
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There is no frame on the 123 to which the hitch is bolted. I'm actually skeptical as to whether the advertised hitch will actually fit a wagon. It's hard to find hitches designed for it. Certainly, the one in the picture is not going to work. The hitches that work as far as I know are bolted both to the bumper and to the floor of the wagon. I'd want to see the precise installation instructions before purchasing. The smaller receiver should work fine.
I have a simple generic bumper hitch on my wagon and I've had no problems with it pulling lightweight trailers. I have seen a wagon with a bumper hitch and a cracked bumper, probably from too high a tongue weight.
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2008, 12:09 PM
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There's no frame back there to attach that hitch to. You really want something that is specifically designed for the 123 wagon. They're out there - just kind of expensive since they are a low volume item.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2008, 12:44 PM
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Here's one for a 1985 300TD:
300TD hitch
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2008, 01:24 PM
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Nice price, have it here too, free shipping if you need other car parts too:
http://www.***********************/search/?Ntt=Valley+Hitch+V1158700&apwcid=A1154013966W44c8db0e4c70a&apwkwd=Valley+Hitch+V1158700&AID=10273828&PID=1869786&SID=-3e74a096-119d8e77833--354e
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2008, 01:30 PM
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I'd be skeptical about that too. They show the same hitch fitting 78-85 SD's. That covers both 116 and 126 models. I doubt the same model will fit both vehicles given the differences in bumpers.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2008, 02:54 PM
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I installed the Curt hitch (#11805) on my wagon just last week. It attaches to the body between the bumper and the frame - they supply some heftier bolts to replace the ones that hold the bumper on.

It's a massive pain in the butt; the bolts are as bit bigger than the stock ones and you will probably have to dill the holes out a bit bigger (I did). This was compounded by the fact that the bolts (welded together in pairs to a steel plate) weren't exactly parallel; I had to hammer the plate a bit to straighten them out so they'd align properly with the holes.

Getting the new bolts in place on the passenger side is practically impossible - you have to reach through the rear windshield washer well and twist your fingers through a small hole under there to reach the holes the bolts go through. I barely managed it after 40 minutes of cursing . If you have kids or know anyone with smaller hands it might be a lot easier for them, though. On the driver's side (spare tire well), the steel plate the two bolts were welded to was too big to fit into the hole (there's a lip at the top) and I had to cut a few millimeters off the top.

There's also an additional bar on the right and left sides that attach the hitch to the underbody (you have to drill holes through the floor of the spare tire well on the driver's side and the rear windshield washer well on the other) but I don't plan on pulling anything heavy so I left those off.

All in all it seems pretty solid. I haven't used it yet but I don't envision any problems. Once you get past the painful installation process it looks pretty sweet.
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  #9  
Old 05-11-2008, 06:09 PM
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My '84 Euro 300TD came with a German trailer hitch. Ball, arm and cross bar is a one-piece welded unit, and it's attached at the holes where the US bumper shocks would go if the car had a US rear bumper, and bolted to the studs that would normally fasten the US bumper shocks. It looks like my Euro bumper is, in turn, bolted to the hitch. There are no other reinforcements. Dont know the weight rating but the hitch booklet (in German) is with the car's papers. I'll check later.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #10  
Old 05-11-2008, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81Wagon View Post
I installed the Curt hitch (#11805) on my wagon just last week. It attaches to the body between the bumper and the frame - they supply some heftier bolts to replace the ones that hold the bumper on.
Would you mind posting a pic? I'd like to see how it looks and where it attaches.

Thanks, I appreciate everyones advice.
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2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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1998 Acura 3.0 CL
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  #11  
Old 05-11-2008, 10:17 PM
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I put on that curt hitch, too.

ordered it from JCW, it was drop shipped from trhe Curt plant in Eau Clair, WI, where it was made. I did have a couple issues w/ the hardware as well.

the biggest PITA was that they sent one that was in the wrong box- so I had to wait for the correct one to come along. the brackets that the previous poster " left out) are an important part of the structural design of the hitch- I would not skip them.

I did remove the washer bottle to gain access to the passenger side.

the weight rating on the web and the paperwork say 2500lbs, but the sticker on the hitch says 2K??


the major problem with this hitch is I put it on last fall, and at this point 70-80% of the powdercoat has already flaked off and it is rusty. the unit I scored from the PNOP for the wifes volvo at the same time and sprayed w/ rattle cans is in better shape.

and the muffler hits it, causing a wicked drone at idle.so I cut that off and replaced it w/ a 3" cherry bomb- it is shorter. I dont have pics yet...

PIcs-

he's more excited than I am...








done.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2008, 11:09 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
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Thanks for the pics Mo ... now I understand how it attaches. I think that looks as good as a hitch can.

Great pic of the little guy. My son loves everything to do with my car too. He still plays with the box from my quarter window seals.

How much does the hitch interfere with the exhaust? Was the only option to replace the muffler, or could the muffler be massaged with a hammer to make room?
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2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2008, 11:10 PM
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The German Euro hitch on my 300TD is a much tidier affair. The hitch cross-bar goes inside the bumper, with the only visible parts being a U-shaped arm and ball sticking out from inside the bumper, and a German electrical socket hanging down on the left side. But good luck finding one, with the Euro bumper to go with it! Unfortunately, my Euro bumper's left corner is slighly mangled, so if I want to install my spare W123 US rear bumper, I'll need to lose the hitch, as it now blocks the body sockets for the US bumper shocks.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2008, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
the brackets that the previous poster " left out) are an important part of the structural design of the hitch- I would not skip them.
Other hitches I've seen bolt between the bumper/frame only; Mark's description of the Euro hitch implies the same as well. If I were towing anywhere near the rated weight (both the label on my hitch and the paperwork said 2,000 lbs / 200lbs tongue weight) I'd have installed everything. While looking at it it seemed like the muffler might be a problem (apparently it was) and I don't plan on pulling much weight at all with it, so I chose to leave them off for the time being.

If I tear off the bumper, I promise to post amusing pictures of the carnage .
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2008, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81Wagon View Post
Other hitches I've seen bolt between the bumper/frame only; Mark's description of the Euro hitch implies the same as well. If I were towing anywhere near the rated weight (both the label on my hitch and the paperwork said 2,000 lbs / 200lbs tongue weight) I'd have installed everything. While looking at it it seemed like the muffler might be a problem (apparently it was) and I don't plan on pulling much weight at all with it, so I chose to leave them off for the time being.

If I tear off the bumper, I promise to post amusing pictures of the carnage .
Some things I noticed - with the U-shaped arm on my Euro hitch, the pulling force is directly in line with the crossbar and mounting bolts behind the bumper. Also, my Euro bumper is only fastened to the crossbar's mounting points. not to the arm and ball, so there's no towing stress on my bumper.
On the American hitch, the pulling force and crossbar is well below the mounting points, so some additional bracing should be used to prevent any flexing at the mounting bolts. Some have suggested also attaching the hitch arm to the bumper, but the telescopic US bumper shocks may cause additional problems here. Until you know what the effects are of leaving off the lower bracing, I'd only tow something lightweigt such as a small utility trailer or small aluminum boat.
While my Euro hitch is a more efficient design, it looks fairly spindly, so I would only pull something lightweigt with mine.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 05-12-2008 at 08:47 AM.
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