2mm lift method - I can not figure out what I am doing wrong! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Scott98 · #16 01-31-2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

If you read post #9 from Brian Carlton, in the above thread - he indicates to stop rotating engine when the pointer gets to .08, while the DIY article says to rotate engine until needle turns CCW to .02.

Which is right?

ryan

I think you are letting the needle sweep around and that is what is throwing off your measurement. Brian was correct in what he said in post #9. You are measuring a certain amount of movement, not looking for an absolute number on the gauge - if that makes any sense.

Scott

Scott98 · #17 01-31-2009, 06:09 PM

Read Brian's words carefully :

"When the gauge is reset to zero and the valve begins to move, the needle will start to rotate (should be counter-clockwise). 2mm is .080". Stop and read the crankshaft numbers when the pointer gets to .080". "

You are rotating the engine until you get a total of 2mm movement on your gauge. Since the gauge is moving counter-clockwise, you will attain 2mm of movement when your gauge reads .080 (0, .090, then .080). IF the gauge was moving clockwise (which it isn't) you would attain 2mm of movement at .020. I think what you are doing is letting the gauge sweep counterclockwise past .080 until it gets to .020 for .080 total movement. That is what is throwing your measurement off.

Hope that helps.

Scott

rgnprof · #18 01-31-2009, 06:26 PM

Scott,

Have you read the DIY at the top of this page - under Resources?

Pay particular attention to Step/Picture 8.

What does step 3 mean - just remove valve lash? The FSM says "screw cap nut upward at intake valve 1 until valve clearance is just cancelled". Does this mean their should be no clearance - or should the clearance now be greater than .1mm???

ryan

tangofox007 · #19 01-31-2009, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98

Read Brian's words carefully :

"When the gauge is reset to zero and the valve begins to move, the needle will start to rotate (should be counter-clockwise). 2mm is .080". Stop and read the crankshaft numbers when the pointer gets to .080". "

Here is what Bian should have said:

"When the gauge is reset to zero and the valve begins to move, the needle will start to rotate (should be counter-clockwise). 2mm is .080". Stop and read the crankshaft numbers when the pointer gets to .020".

(This assumes that the indicator is of the unidirectional variety; some are marked for use in either direction.)

Scott98 · #20 01-31-2009, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Here is what Bian should have said:

"When the gauge is reset to zero and the valve begins to move, the needle will start to rotate (should be counter-clockwise). 2mm is .080". Stop and read the crankshaft numbers when the pointer gets to .020". "

I stand corrected. I re-read the article and you are correct. 2mm = .080. So if you are going counter-clockwise you will stop at .020.

Regarding the reference to valve lash, it means to remove all clearance. If you didn't do this, it will significantly throw off your numbers. I'm still betting there is some error here somewhere; we just haven't discovered it yet.

Scott

rgnprof · #21 01-31-2009, 06:35 PM

Again, I know this is probably stupid but what do you mean by "remove all clearance"? Am I widening the gap between the nut and the lobe - or am I tightening it up so there is no clearance between the nut and the lobe?

ryan

Scott98 · #22 01-31-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

Again, I know this is probably stupid but what do you mean by "remove all clearance"? Am I widening the gap between the nut and the lobe - or am I tightening it up so there is no clearance between the nut and the lobe?

ryan

Tighten it up so there is no clearance.

Scott

rgnprof · #23 01-31-2009, 06:40 PM

That may be my problem...

I'll let you know...

ryan

Scott98 · #24 01-31-2009, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

That may be my problem...

I'll let you know...

ryan

Bingo!

Good luck!

Scott

vox_incognita · #25 01-31-2009, 06:44 PM

Loosen the top nut ,and/or better-insert a feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness(0.2...0.25mm) between the rocker arm and the nut-even if the valve is raised from its seat,it doesn`t affect the reading.

rgnprof · #26 01-31-2009, 07:26 PM

OK, or should I say HA!

I'm not going to go into how you can read "remove the valve lash" 2 different ways...

Anyway, when I 'removed the clearance', I ended up reading 2 degrees of chain stretch. I have done it several times now and each time I end up right at 15-16 degrees, which if you subtract 13.5 from you get approx 2 degrees of stretch. That's pretty close to what I get by lining up the marks - consistently between 2-3 degrees.

I am assuming my chain is fine and now I am going to tackle drip timing my injection pump!

Thanks for all the help - I really appreciate this board!

ryan

Scott98 · #27 01-31-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

OK, or should I say HA!

I'm not going to go into how you can read "remove the valve lash" 2 different ways...

Anyway, when I 'removed the clearance', I ended up reading 2 degrees of chain stretch. I have done it several times now and each time I end up right at 15-16 degrees, which if you subtract 13.5 from you get approx 2 degrees of stretch. That's pretty close to what I get by lining up the marks - consistently between 2-3 degrees.

I am assuming my chain is fine and now I am going to tackle drip timing my injection pump!

Thanks for all the help - I really appreciate this board!

ryan

Glad you got it figured out. I put together an article under the resources section up top for injection pump timing. Let me know if you need any help.

Scott

rgnprof · #28 01-31-2009, 10:13 PM

Thanks Scott - I have already read thru your article and I followed it last time I tried this. My only problem was with the pumping of the fuel...

I have since put a new primer pump on, but I had trouble figuring out if I was supposed to continually pump, or do you pump for a while and then stop...?

ryan

Scott98 · #29 02-01-2009, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

Thanks Scott - I have already read thru your article and I followed it last time I tried this. My only problem was with the pumping of the fuel...

I have since put a new primer pump on, but I had trouble figuring out if I was supposed to continually pump, or do you pump for a while and then stop...?

ryan

You pump until you see fuel. You take the measurement and adjust the IP as necessary. Pump again and take another measurement and so on. Its not really an exact science. You'll be able to tell when you're close and that will be good enough.

Scott

Paulc66t · #30 02-01-2009, 05:47 AM

You need to measure 2mm of travel(or .080"). The DYI article says the gauge reads .02" because I believe his needle was moving backwards.