just thought of something. If you flipped that washer with the mark over, does it make a difference?

I think so.

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Does not face the radiator!

Nice catch Lee.

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This is the original idea that I deleted b/c it was an incomplete thought. Now I've got it though.


Your crank and IP are in relation to eachother since you have not messed with them (please verify). Could the chain have slipped on the crank? How was the chain stored when the head was off, was the crank moved at all?

Assuming that this is the case, you have simply installed the camshaft in the wrong direction. You want the relation found at the top of this post, but the relation you have is at the bottom of the post. Your drip results suggest the same as well.

In order to avoid removing the IP and the oil filter housing and all that mess, here is a possible shortcut:

1. Set the camshaft to 'lobes up' and TDC on the crank.

2. mark the chain in relation to the sprocket (for safekeeping)

3. remove the chain tensioner and the rocker arms

4. remove the sprocket from cam (and flip over that washer!)

5. CAREFULLY turn the crank one full revolution keeping some tension on the chain so nothing slips anywhere.

6. with your crank set at TDC, your IP should now be in the correct position.

7. Put the sprocket back on ensuring that the cam and crank are set to TDC and there is no slack between them on the IP side. In order to do this, you must remove the sprocket from the chain and determine which tooth is exactly 180* from the mark you just made. Re-install the sprocket by matching the new mark to the mark on the chain.

8. Do your drip timing again. If its all good ,you know the rest.


The other option is to count teeth on the sprocket after setting the engine 'lobes down' in your case - but there is too much error involved. And the camshaft might move.

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This is starting to become confusing so lets break it down to more managable steps. Forget the camshaft and it's mark for the time being. Rotate the crankshaft to the position that you see or feel the timing vee in the timing port or window on your injection pump.

When you have accomplished this step post back and we will go to the next step. All you are going to be doing is breaking the checking down further into smaller self contained steps. Perhaps much easier than the whole picture at once at this stage.

First we are going to get the injection pump to crankshaft relationship checked or corrected if needed. Remember that you may not pick up the pump indicator in the first revolution. It could as easily be present in the second revolution.

If someone has a better or more sound approach chime in. At present it is just too confusing at least to me to proceed otherwise. Remember for the time being just ignore the camshaft. The old expression you have to start somewhere sound does seem to apply to your situation at present. Will slowly but methodically deal with each issue separatly.

Agreed.

the simplest way to imagine this is to begin with "the head was removed and replaced"

Move back in time and replace the camshaft properly.

I am assuming that the crank relation to the IP is intact - I ask for confirmation.
the only issue is the placement of the cam.

draw yourself a picture and mimic the movement of the TDC marks on all three items.

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You can't get there from here unless you continue to force the very unreliable drip method. This engine has a port on the side of the IP which guarantees reliable IP positioning.

Give up the drip method.......he's not going to succeed with it.

time for clarity!
count me in barry/brian...first things first.

only problem i have right now is that i'm not sure where the port/vee indicator is or how to read the sucker. i've done lots of searches on the forum, and have found conversations about the RIV and everything, but nothing with the basics.

seem to be (4) hex caps/bolts of (4) different sizes on the body of the IP...is it one of those? top right? top left? bottom left? bottom right?
can you help me locate the sucker?

and then after i take off the cap, i just stick my finger in the hole and turn the motor over by hand til i see a 'slot' in my little mirror or feel a gap/slot with my finger/fingernail?

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-lee
'83 300CDT (286k)

former proud owner of:
'85 mercedes euro 300TD
'80 mercedes 300TD
'77 mercedes 280e
'80 mercedes euro 250
'82 mercedes euro 250

Someone that has had the bolt out for the timing vee on a 1985 injection pump. Please chime in and describe it please. Or someone with a proper service manual look it up and describe it.

I have never timed one of these later pumps. It will be a pronounced slot or vee. Perhaps using a screwdriver to feel for it may be better than your finger. Especially if the hole is small..

I only post this additional item as you may well be fatigued from working long hours. There are also enough issues at present without trying to deal with a stuck finger.

Look on the pump, just aft of the center flange (the division of the pump from the section with the delivery valves to the section with the governor).

Down at the bottom of the pump is a single bolt right in the middle of a flange with two bolts (one upper and one lower). That's the bolt to remove.

A few ounces of oil will run out...........don't be alarmed.

You'll need to use a pick or a mirror with a strong light and feel for, or see, the inverted notch. You want the notch right smack in the middle of the port window..............then read the crank damper and report back with what you get.

Thank you Brian.

reading taken.
the notch appears at 15º ATDC.
what's next, fellers?

(for those of you w/ similar quandries about your '84-85 model IP, remove the hex cap shown in red below...using a mirror and a flashlight, the notch Brian mentioned is apparent.)

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-lee
'83 300CDT (286k)

former proud owner of:
'85 mercedes euro 300TD
'80 mercedes 300TD
'77 mercedes 280e
'80 mercedes euro 250
'82 mercedes euro 250

Excellent work. That eliminates the relationship between the crankshaft and the IP.

Now, with the engine at 15° ATDC and the notch in the middle of the window, are the lobes of #1 pointing upwards (approx.) or are they down and opening the valves? This is very important..........so, check carefully.

at current 15º ATDC, the lobes on the first cylinder are as such:
exhaust (1st one) pointing tapered end at 9 o'clock (directly towards the passenger side of the car).
intake (2nd one back) pointing tapered end at 5 o'clock.

i'm assuming this is not as it should be, as w/ normal engine rotation, the 2nd lobe is just about to be in full contact w/ that valve. should that lobe be just finishing contact w/ that valve?

in which case, perhaps i 'jumped' a couple chain links on the camshaft sprocket
OR
maybe there's something to JT20's idea that the little notched line-up TDC indicator washer behind the cam sprocket could be 'flipped'?

__________________
-lee
'83 300CDT (286k)

former proud owner of:
'85 mercedes euro 300TD
'80 mercedes 300TD
'77 mercedes 280e
'80 mercedes euro 250
'82 mercedes euro 250

If I read your clock positions correctly, the intake valve is partially open and the exhaust valve has just closed.

............the engine's not going to run in that condition..........