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#1
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Primer Pump
If a primer pump failed, does it introduce a air leak into the fuel system/lift pump?
And if so, how can I seal the primer pump so it doesnt leak air until I get a new one? I'm narrowing the list of the problems with this car, and I'm getting more and more excited every day.
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Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin Current: *1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler |
#2
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If you are in a huge rush....you can get an upgraded one at NAPA if you have one near you. Depending on how hosed up the old early style one is, you might not be able to seal it up.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#3
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Are there o-rings or something that can be replaced? Right now, the primer pump doesn't actually pump anything.
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Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin Current: *1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler |
#4
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If you have a non turbo 300D then this will be right up your street.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294499-refreshing-fuel-pump-om617-european-spec-%96-non-turbo.html If you've got a turbo then it gives you a rough idea (so I've been told)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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You're my Hero Army. That looks not-so-hard to complete. Would I need to rebuild the fuel pump just to change the primer pump? Seems to me that the primer pump should be able to be switched out without removing the IP
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Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin Current: *1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler |
#6
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Indeed "just" whip the old primer pump off and replace it with a new one.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 09-27-2011 at 02:46 PM. Reason: replaced the word whack with whip just in case it gives the wrong impression! |
#7
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With a crowsfoot attachment its an easy swapout, awkward but not impossible without one and can be done without taking anything off the car. I've done it on two, without a crowsfoot.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#8
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If the old white knob version. Just slip a ballon over it and squeeze out the air should stop any air ingress. I have no ideal how long the ballon material will last when subjected to oil. Carry a spare baloon perhaps until the new primer pump arrives.
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#9
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A condom might work, carry a few in the glove box in case a need arises.
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#10
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At the top of the Aluminum Hand Primer the Body is crimped over and the Aluminum is fairly Thick. This means you cannot take it apart without some major grief.
Unless something has rubbed a hole into the Aluminum body air has to come in under the Knob and shaft. If you unscrew the knob and can pull it up some; wipe of any Diesel Fuel and put a nice thick bead of Silicon Sealant under the Head of the Knob and shove it down slowly and till it bottoms out and screw it back in tight. Let the Silicon Cure and just the way it is coat the area again with Silicone Sealant and again let it cure. The Fuel Injection Pump pictured in the thread is an M type Pump. On the M Pumps the Hand Primer sits close to the Fuel Injection Pump. On the MW type Fuel Injection Pump the most of have the Hand Primer sits in a different position and is a little easier to get at. And, the Hand Primer can be removed all by itself. How to do that is well covered in the DIY Section. DIY Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82 http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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