Just need a clue. 83 240d auto... I have done all tests i could do, fixed all the leaks, new 3/2 valves, good vacuum, been riding around all day tweakin on the roadside. For the life of me can't get it to go into 2nd without chirpin the tires @ 4000 rpms. In the absence of this magical shift point adjuster known as 'bowden cable' (which I apparently don't have) what does this trick?
I have gone a good full turn, both directions, on the modulator. and after establishing good vacuum, to no avail

did you check your vacuum profile? there is a huge post here telling how to set the leak rate (with orifices) and the initial setting by adjusting the valve on the side of the IP. until you get the profile correct, the modulator shouldnt be touched. There is also a good post on how to set the modulator using a pressure gauge here which may now be something you need to do. search tool is your freind. and there is a large DIY section welcome to the forum.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

If there's not a Bowden cable, I believe there is a series of rods running from the accelerator linkage on the valve cover, down thru the intake manifold and back to the transmission. Those rods can be adjusted in length.
Have you checked to make sure the kickdown switch is not stuck on?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

A 240D chirping it's tires? GTFO!

the down shift button under the accelerator stuck? As I recall, my 300D wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd until very high RPMs when the button got stuck.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Last thing i did last night was drive around clicking that little button. eventually unplugged it and nothing made any difference. I keep thinking it will be some simple deal, like all the things I read of folks just puttin a bb in something, or the 3/2 flippers.
My vacuum 'profile' is 12"-0" , and I set it several times ranging from 8-15 on the high end with no noticeable effect.
I think if I read mr safety sam's thread again, i am going to freak out. Read it like 3 times last few days. Pretty much talking about 300's, bowden cables, or things I have already done or tried. same for the the Brotherton essay. and the deiselgiant page.
I am considering , for the first time in my life, giving up and takin it to the shop. though this is a real kick in the jimmy.

If you have a Mityvac, just bypass all the controls under the hood and pump up the line to the modulator to 15" and keep it there (run the Mityvac into the cabin).

Take it for a drive and determine if the shift characteristics change with vacuum applied to the modulator directly. If they don't, it's an internal transmission problem and no amount of diagnosis under the hood can solve it.