My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT)

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by okcraig

Tangofox007,

Do I need to pull the valve body back off to do this?

Yes.

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Yes.

Thanks for the input. Well the good news is I finally got the drain plug out. The allen wrench slot was a bit stripped and I had to work on it a bit. So once its drained I'll pull the pan and then take the valve body down again. I have looked through my books but can't reall find any refrence to doing this. Can you provide any hints? TIA

[tangofox007]

The shift plunger on the left, rear side of the valve body has a notch or groove which needs to be engaged (mated) with the shifter mechanism as the valve body is reinstalled. If you didn't do that previously, it is possible that the plunger was damaged as the valve body bolts were tightened. Also make sure that the throttle plunger aligns with the cable bellcrank on the right side. (That usually takes care of itself.)

I recommend that you verify proper shift mechanism operation before reinstalling the pan. (Have a helper move the shifter while you observe from below.)

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

The shift plunger on the left, rear side of the valve body has a notch or groove which needs to be engaged (mated) with the shifter mechanism as the valve body is reinstalled. If you didn't do that previously, it is possible that the plunger was damaged as the valve body bolts were tightened. Also make sure that the throttle plunger aligns with the cable bellcrank on the right side. (That usually takes care of itself.)

I recommend that you verify proper shift mechanism operation before reinstalling the pan. (Have a helper move the shifter while you observe from below.)

Thanks for the info. I have the valve body back off and will see how it looks. Thanks again.

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by okcraig

Thanks for the info. I have the valve body back off and will see how it looks. Thanks again.

OK, I've located the plunger and the shaft part that I think should move it. I've got the body back in place and the plunger does move as you move the gear lever. However, it moves from park to R to D to 3 to 2 to 1 with no problem. But as you move the elector back to P the plunger does not move back. Is this possible becuase there is no pressure against it since the car is not running? TIA

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by okcraig

OK, I've located the plunger and the shaft part that I think should move it. I've got the body back in place and the plunger does move as you move the gear lever. However, it moves from park to R to D to 3 to 2 to 1 with no problem. But as you move the elector back to P the plunger does not move back. Is this possible becuase there is no pressure against it since the car is not running? TIA

OK, put fluid back in and started it up but with the same results. I don't have a good picture of the part that mates up to the shifter part. But it's plastic and has kind of a l shape to the piece that appears to mate with the pin which sticks out of the shifter piece. Its hard to tell if this is broke or not but I'm thinking that this should probably be a U shape so that the pin pulls it in both directions. I don't know if you can buy this piece or not but I'm thinkking it might be better to buy a complete new or rebuilt valve body. I'm probably going to sleep on it tonight and do some more reasearch. Please pass on your thoughts. Us retirees need to stick together. Thanks for your help.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by okcraig

I'm thinking that this should probably be a U shape so that the pin pulls it in both directions.

Yes, the selector valve should be positively engaged in both directions. My recollection is that it is possible to install the selector valve upside down. Or possibly 90 degrees off. Is it possible that that occurred? The valve is indexed by a long groove on the valve and a projection on the retainer plate.

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Yes, the selector valve should be positively engaged in both directions. My recollection is that it is possible to install the selector valve upside down. Or possibly 90 degrees off. Is it possible that that occurred? The valve is indexed by a long groove on the valve and a projection on the retainer plate.

I had not removed the selector valve from the body, just the K1, K2, and B1 springs. So it is in the same position as before. But thanks for the suggestion. I'll see if I can find a good picture of one and compare them. Thanks again for all the help. I'll also try and get a picture of mine and post it. Have a good Sunday.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by okcraig

I don't know if you can buy this piece or not...

According to the EPC, the selector valve is available as an individual part.

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

According to the EPC, the selector valve is available as an individual part.

Thanks. I havn't been able to find it online anywhere. But still checking. Do you have any suggestions on who might have it? TIA

[tangofox007]

I would not expect to find it anywhere except a MB dealer.

Is it possible that you did not get the valve plunger properly engaged with the shift mechanism? If it was slightly out of position, it would be possible for it to push but not pull, or vice versa.

My experience is limited to a '82 300D. Yours might be different, but on mine it was quite obvious how the parts shoud mate. There was a sort of "receptacle" on the rear of the plunger that snapped over an inverted "T" on the shift mechanism.

[okcraig]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

I would not expect to find it anywhere except a MB dealer.

Is it possible that you did not get the valve plunger properly engaged with the shift mechanism? If it was slightly out of position, it would be possible for it to push but not pull, or vice versa.

My experience is limited to a '82 300D. Yours might be different, but on mine it was quite obvious how the parts shoud mate. There was a sort of "receptacle" on the rear of the plunger that snapped over an inverted "T" on the shift mechanism.

I am checking on ordering the part now. I have some pics I took of the valve body. The system won't let me add them for some reason. So if you're interested pass an e-mail address and I'll send them to you. Thanks for the help.

[BoiseBenz]

Originally Posted by okcraig

I am checking on ordering the part now. I have some pics I took of the valve body. The system won't let me add them for some reason. So if you're interested pass an e-mail address and I'll send them to you. Thanks for the help.

OK Craig,

In case you haven't resolved this: I did the same thing. You will need to replace the entire valve (metal slide, nylon end slot adapter thing) for about $30 only from Mercedes. As soon as you moved the shifter lever without the correct registration, you broke off part of the nylon.

[howards@howards]

Well I think that a company that sends out a bag full of colored springs for a transmission that costs $56. with no instructions shuldent call it a superior kit.

I put thge purple in the K-1 and then the short blue on the end of the K-2 three spring train. The 1-2 shift is on time but still shifts hard. The 2-3 flair is fixed compleatly so I am happy

If I want to get rid of the 1-2 slam what do I do next??

[Hit Man X]

Originally Posted by howards@howards

Well I think that a company that sends out a bag full of colored springs for a transmission that costs $56. with no instructions shuldent call it a superior kit.

I put thge purple in the K-1 and then the short blue on the end of the K-2 three spring train. The 1-2 shift is on time but still shifts hard. The 2-3 flair is fixed compleatly so I am happy

If I want to get rid of the 1-2 slam what do I do next??

Please stop bumping all of the Superior kit threads is what you should do next. If you think you can design a better kit for $55 or less, let us know.

After that, call them on Monday for a better copy of the instructions. Again, my copy was perfectly legible and easy to follow.