The belts are worn and cracked on my 1982 240D, and I was wondering how difficult it it to change them myself. I have the Chilton repair guide, but the diagram for the 240D in the book, doesn't match. I just wanted to get some feedback from someone who had done it before about difficulty, tips, tricks, and any special tools. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

You may be able to find something using the search function.
Make sure to loosen the hold down bolts, and don't break the tensioning bolts. On my cars I'll use a bump starter after I just get 'em on the lip, bump the engine, they "walk" right on.
Also be sure to get the correct size belts. You may be able to read on the old ones what size they are. At worst, take the old ones to a auto parts store, they should have a gauge to measure them. If you have to cut any off, you know that one is too short. Happens sometimes.
Good luck.

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83 SD

84 CD

Just dont miss the hidden bolt on the PS pump.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I wouldn't say its very difficult. I'd probably use Conti (Continental) belts. They seem to have a good reputation. I also hear they have the correct 'V' form for the Mercedes pulleys. Don't know if that is bull or not. I can't think of any special tools. Also, loosen all the bolts for the alternator. I have heard the tension bolt is easliy bent. Mine was bent to some extent. The belts should have an inch to 1/2 inch of deflection in them.
Tom

^This is a good way to DRASTICALLY shorten the life of a new belt.^

Even for a rookie, changing belts shouldn't be too difficult. You will need a few wrenches and in most cases you don't even need a prybar on an MB.

All three have adjusters that will move the accessory in or out AS LONG AS the clamping bolts are loose. Example is the alternator; loosen the long bolt at the pivot and the bolt that goes through the adjuster. These are the bolts that run fore and aft. Then you can run the adjuster that is the long stud that runs toward the engine.

Just take your time and look it over as you go. It's nothing that can't be done by just looking at how it goes together.

Final tip: on ANY vehicle always spin everything while the belts are off. Everything should spin very smoothly except, of course, the crankshaft pulley. There is no better time to check for a rough bearing or a noisy accessory.

Good luck with it.

Awesome. Thanks to everyone for the tips. One questions though, when you say break the bolt, are you saying break it loose, or break it and replace it? I really apprecate everyone's help!

I didnt read the post that said that. But nobody wants to break bolts on a car. Break free from the torqued setting is most likely the intention.

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That was a good one!!

Yes.. break free... breaking off is bad in any car.. even GM's lol.

Awesome. Good call!

don't wait to do this! my belts looked old when i first got my car and i was planning to do them but put it off. then i ended up on the side of the road.

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1980 300D, 128K

Yeah. That's what I'm hoping to avoid. The catalizing factor for me was when I was accelerating onto the freeway the other day, I heard a squeeeling coming from the engine. I pulled off at the next off ramp, but by that point, the noise had stopped. Everything looked fine except for the condition of the belts (tension was good, no noised coming from anything else). So, I figure that even if it wasn't belt noise, I'm due to replace them anyway. I'm also going to use this as an opportunity to check the alternator, power steering pump, and a/c compressor to see if everything's still spinning freely.

Putting the front end on ramps or jackstands made the job a lot easier for me. I used a ratchet set and extensions, and open end/box wrenches.

If I remember right, all three components (AC, PS pump, Alt) have three bolts to loosen then you loosen the adjuster/tensioner bolt and you can watch the component move and the belt become loose. You just have to look for all three bolts on each component or it won't move when you try to loosen the adjuster/tensioner bolt.

Not hard, just time consuming.

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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

Thanks for the heads up, I have yet to have a problem. Maybe just lucky.

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83 SD

84 CD

I changed the belts today, and thanks to everyone's advice, it was a snap. The hardest part was locating all of the bolts on the power steering pump. Once I crossed that hurdle, it was a piece of cake. Thanks again!