Hey guys,

Long story how I got here so I'll spare you unless we have to get into it.
82 240D Manual.
Short version is that I had a bad oil leak between the IP and the block so I changed the gasket. Put the IP back on where the metal fuel lines were perfectly lined up to the pump elements. (Why I didn't have alignment marks is part of the long version.) She started but drove real slow, lots of smoke, slow, stalled out a couple times from 1st gear, slow, ran hot, and slow.
Thought maybe the timing should be advanced. Turned the IP forward but still within where I could squeeze the lines on without bending. No start. Thought maybe I needed to retard instead. Started but worse smoke and less willing to stay started.
Then I buy the drip tube and overnight it here thinking at least I can solve my problems. 24 BTDC, cam lobes up, throttle on full, shutoff disconnected, spring and devliery valve out, just like the fantastic post in the Wiki said. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming
No matter where I rotated my pump, I could get nothing but a "stream" of fuel. No drips, except the dripping from after the stream ran out of fuel.
Thoughts? I expected to see a stream on one side of the timing and like nothing on the other.
I will get into the longer story of why I have no alignment marks if you need.

Thanks a million,
Garrison

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

Did you line up the pump correctly before putting it in?

That might be a critical piece of the puzzle.

The problem here is whether the splined IP shaft had any rotation during the handling process of removal and reinstallation. I suspect that this is the issue and the IP timing is now very late. This is why you don't get anything but a stream, no matter where you set IP housing.

Since it did run, you're probably not too far off. I might advance the IP by one tooth and try it again.

First I'll answer FI: The pump was off long enough to go on the bench, put a new gasket on, and put the pump back on the block. I don't know what "lining it up" means apart from where it sits on the bolts that it swivels on. It didn't seem as though too much on the pump itself was going to move.

Addendum to the question would be, do I have to put 45Nm on the pump element when I'm doing the drip test? I just tightened it down to 25Nm for the test.

Since a steady stream doesn't sound familiar to you, here is the longer story. This is where I get to acknowledge that if I had read 10 more minutes I would have saved myself 3 days of trouble. You guys can call me a dumbass and I'll acknowledge that.
I had heard of IP timing before, but I didn't know how it was done, nor did I take a second to read about it. I knew this gasket was leaking, and I thought "I'm just gonna take the pump off quick and put it back on; I won't be moving any of the screws or anything on it. I don't need to know how it's timed."
Then I read my FSM on IP removal and it didn't cover timing during that chapter (though there are obviously chapters devoted to it in there.) The kicker is that I read the removal process for an earlier model pump without knowing it. They mentioned the three mounting nuts but not the rear one (which presumably wasn't in use at the time.) I get all hoses removed, nuts off, I'm trying to budge this thing and all of a sudden, it twists in place. I'm like, "frick, that's how you time this thing I bet. Oh well I'll just put it back exactly where the metal lines line it up to."

That's why I have no alignment marks- I had not been smart enough to read everything about the pump that I could when going for the gasket.

The worst of it is that because I didn't know about the rear bolt yet, I thought there must be some spline in there that mates to something in the block, so I tried tapping a piece of wood against the rear of the pump (metal cover just to the right of the pump elements) in a rear-ward direction. Not budging, so then my (limited) common sense tells me something else must be holding this thing on. I start poking around underneath and see the bracket and think, "it woulda been nice of the FSM to mention that!"

Of course once the bracket was off, the pump came out with zero effort. Pump to bench, mounting bolts out, scrapey scrapey, new gasket to block, pump right back on, lined it up with the metal lines and tightened everything back together.

After it was all done, I went back to FSM to learn about timing and I read the SECOND part of the FSM on IP removal where it covers my exact pump and the rear bracket. I didn't even realize there had been more pages in the article cause I got through remocal and installation and I thought that was the end of the article. Like I said, 10 minutes of reading...

So now you can all call me a retard and I'll agree wholeheartedly and I'd still like to know if the wood & hammer tactic destroyed something inside or if there's something else that could have gotten out of alignment while pretty much not tampering with the pump itself at all. It wouldn't be the first time we've had to tap at something to free it up (cvj replacement for example), so I hope you can understand why I didn't think it was that far out of the ball park to do that.

This is my daily driver and I'm pretty anxious about it. Any advice would be so greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Garrison

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

Thanks Brian, I'll try that. Advance on the spline teeth is toward the block, or "anti-clockwise"?

Again, I'm sorry for being a dumbass. I really needed more reading before getting into it.

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

Be careful and follow this very closely:

When the IP in installed on the engine, you rotate the IP housing toward the engine to advance the timing. This has the effect of rotating the IP shaft clockwise (the opposite direction) as viewed from the front of the engine.

So, if you're pulling the IP, you must rotate the IP shaft by one tooth clockwise (engine rotation) as viewed from the end of the shaft and reinstall the IP into the spline of the IP timer.

Of course, if the IP shaft won't rotate, just take the entire IP and rotate it clockwise (away from the engine) and reinstall it. Now the IP will be much further from the engine and you can rotate the housing toward the engine to advance timing (the IP shaft can't move because it's engaged in the splines of the timer).

Thanks Brian that makes perfect sense. I will let you guys know how I make out.

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

I had a similar problem last time I removed my pump. I just slid it out, rotated it to a more 'retarded' position slid it back in and proceeded to time it (basically what Brian just said). I likely didn't have it centered correctly the first time it went in...
If this does not work for you, you need to take the pump out and verify the mark on the splined shaft is in the proper location and didn't get inadvertently rotated way out of line, then try again.

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I dont see anyone telling him to line up the timing marks on the IP before installing on the engine??

On the splined shaft of your IP you will see a mark, and likewise on the front of the IP. that is your mark for #1 begin delivery. Those marks have to be aligned prior to installing the pump with the engine at 24*btdc and the lobes up lol.

Give that a try and see how you do. Once you have that basick alignment then its a matter of rotating the IP a little in either direction to get JUST a drip. You can also do without the drip tube too. Just start with a dry well on the pump, and use your hand primer to pump the fuel till you just start to see the well sloowly fill. Then bolt pump tight and reassemble. Hope this helps!

Rick

Study up on the IP alignment marks that were "installed at the factory." As explained above, you need to remove the pump, turn the drive to align the index marks, set the crankshaft to 24* BTDC, then reinstall the pump in the middle of the adjustment range. Then do the drip timing procedure.

It's entirely possible that you would have not had enough adjustment range to properly time the pump even if you had never removed it.

Thanks I will double-check those factory marks then too. You guys are fantastic!

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

Thanks to all of your help, I did remove the IP and found my timing marks and I was way off. My spline mark was at about 1:00 and the mark to match is at 11:00. Car runs just like she should again.
I wanted to show my appreciation to you all by providing a couple of pics of the marks, which I was unable to locate in the forum nor on Google. Just in case anyone else goes through this.
Note that in the first pic, the ring on the lower left was removed with great ease - it just slides right off as if it wants to fall off. Underneath it are the splines. The area where the marks are found is highlighted.

The second pic is a close-up of the marks.

Thanks for everything,
Garrison

Attached Thumbnails

   

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Garrison R.
'83 300D

Excellent photos! Also if you look right at the very front of your IP's shaft, you'll see yet another notch right in the shaft itself. I forgot about the odd tooth.

Glad it worked.