Thanks to David Wilson and making his Baum carrier bushing tool (tool 40 in the rental list) available for rent the 87 300D has new carrier bushings.

Reference section 35-116, but here's how I did it -

Set rear jack point on jackstand

Set floor jack under lower control arm (hope plastic cover doesn't break)

Remove wheel

Remove caliper, set on top of hub carrier (2 bolts, 17mm wrench)

Remove bolt holding rotor (1 bolt, 5mm hex key)

Remove rotor

Bend lower part of brake backing plate outward for access to carrier bushing nut

Hang a wrench on the head of the carrier bushing bolt (22mm)

Remove carrier bushing nut (22mm)

Remove carrier bushing bolt

Lower floor jack to lower lower control arm until hub carrier springs free of the control arm. The hub carrier will spring up, the lower control arm will lower until the shock is fully extended leaving sufficient working room.

Set the small drift of the tool on the forward end of the old bushing, set the receiver (big hollow thing) over the aft end of the old bushing, put the lead screw through the deal with the nut end facing aft, finger tighten the nut on the lead screw, center the receiver by feel, tighten the nut (David Wilson's Baum tool takes a 27mm deep socket) until the old bushing pops out. If you have to apply more force than would loosen a lugnut, recenter the receiver.

Clean carrier bushing bore

I applied SilGlyd to the outer casing of the new carrier bushing. It was that or anti seize and SilGlyd won the coin toss

Set the new bushing against the aft end of the bore, set the drift with a conical face against the aft end of the bushing, set the drift with a hollow recess (but not as big as the receiver) against the forward end of the bore, put the lead screw through the deal with the nut end facing aft, tighten the nut. Tightening the nut until there was resistance set the bushing with more of the outer casing exposed on the forward end of the bore. I thought it should be centered so I used the tool in removal mode to nudge the bushing aft so it's centered in the bore.

Raise the control arm to meet the hub carrier. I don't know if it's my floor jack or the tendency of the control arm but the control arm shifts forward as it's raised. I had to tug backwards on the jack and use other influence to get the bushing to slot into the control arm. It wasn't difficult to get the holes to align enough to use a rod to get hole alignment spot on so the bolt slid into place.

Torque the nut to 120 Nm. The manual calls for a new nut. Maybe a new bolt. I'm happy with blue Loctite.

Bend brake backing plate back into place

Install rotor

Tighten bolt holding rotor

Install caliper

Tighten bolts holding caliper

Install wheel

Repeat on the other side

I know you expect pictures but my wife gets upset when I get greasy fingerprints on the camera

Sixto
87 300D