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#16
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Yes, there is the possibility it is inside the trans...
but logic and money require that you take off the list the stuff outside the trans before taking it out of the car and taking it apart.. UNless you just WANT to do that.. it IS YOUR CAR... I can not visualize which white plastic deal you are talking about... is it inside the car near the spring lockout of the reverse gear ? |
#17
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It is a white plastic bushing (about 1.5" high and about 1" in diameter that surrounds the actual shift lever INSIDE the shifter assembly unit (so it now appears). Will do all of the OUTSIDE stuff before proceeding INTO the tranny...I am perplexed but not NUTS! Thanks for keeping in touch on this....LEN SOKOLOFF sent me some great stuff offline today via email that might resolve this issue......
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#18
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That really sounds like what was wrong all the time...
but that could have caused someone to bend the shifting arms in frustration.. |
#19
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Most likely you are talking about this item. Top hat shaped bushing that sits on the left (driver's) end of the shifter shaft in the tunnel.
Four 10mm bolts to remove the shifter from your seat and fix this.... Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#20
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What are the functions of each of the three levers on the tranny operated by the shifter linkages?
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#21
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Quote:
3-n-4 r-n
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#22
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rs899...yep that's the one....replaced it yesterday...re-aligned all shifter rods connected into tranny.....replaced all external small rubber bushings on shifter rods....adjusted tightness of hex bolts leading into tranny...replaced shifter cover to insure no cr@p gets down into assembly unit....took it out for a test spin and it NOW works....I think he also bled any air out of clutch pedal hose to insure that this wasn't making things a problem.
TODAY.....the shifter unit IS WORKING....not like before but it is working....there is more pressure TODAY on clutch pedal than before (good sign I hope?)....shifting is not as smooth as before in shifter assembly (stiff/tighter and still a tendency for reverse to slip into neutral on occasion when at a standstill....but I can live with this if this is NOT a symptom of something else going forward)......HOWEVER, it seems NOW that the lower gears and reverse work perfectly fine BUT I noticed at higher speeds when I shift up from third to fourth gear (four forward gears)....that there is not a DISTINCT feel of shifting from one gear to the next, i.e., its in fourth but it still feels like its remained in third (????) and I experience a slow SURGE of power as the accelerator pedal is depressed to increase speed (a slight hesitation in acceleration when in fourth gear before it kicks in to higher speed)......Does anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this, or is it simply the tranny getting used to unblocked arteries and an operational shifter unit? Does this forbode yet another issue going forward? And, if so, what might this be? I am clueless...... THANKS TO ONE AND ALL FOR YOUR HELP ON THIS PROBLEM....IT HAS SURELY SAVED MY BACON DURING THE HOLIDAYS! |
#23
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Quote:
When nominally operational, you should be able to shift using two fingers (except reverse)
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#24
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Do you know if there is enough slack in the linkage (so it doesn't have to be disconnected) to lift the shifter up high enough to change that bushing? Its not that Im to lazy to jack the car up, well maybe
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#25
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Quote:
Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#26
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rs899
Is there an EASY way to check this out WITHOUT taking apart the clutch system? It seems to me that if it is either a loose clutch disk or a defective (possible) pressure plate, that this is going to be an expensive undertaking to fix.....there are inexpensive REPAIR kits available @$30 to repair 3-4 smaller parts on the clutch slave....would this help or is it same thing.....pull the clutch assembly OUT? |
#27
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If the clutch is slipping, sooner or later you will have to take it apart. There is a gauge that you can supposedly make and insert between the bellhousing and the transmission that tells you where the slave cylinder is (and indirectly how much lining you have on your clutch), but somehow I doubt that it is more accurate than seat-of-the pants feel. If you have had this car for years and it now feels like it is slipping accelerating into 4th, it probably is.....
If your hydraulic system is acting up in this regard, it is working TOO well- not releasing when the pedal is up. There is a cam (throw) adjustment on the clutch master cylinder- not sure if that will help....
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#28
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As far as clutch wear.... there is a Go/NOGO guage which is used to check that I believe from the outside... it is in the FSM...
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#29
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Quote:
this should have been the first thing your mech did. In earlier posts I thought the hydraulics were checked and eliminated as a possibility. To be honest. IF you had air in the lines you will have trouble shifting to reverse and the low gears, and it may also give you trouble in the high gears when moving. this is a common symptom of either a bad clutch or reduced throwout bearing travel from either air in the line or bad slave/master cylinders. I would definitely be looking for a new mechanic. It still seems strange that fixing the second shifter, which was having the same troubles as the first shifter, was the final answer. either your mechanic isnt telling you something, or the trouble is just temporarily masked by better shifter performance
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#30
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Quote:
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
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