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  #61  
Old 01-14-2009, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
"Normally" should keep batteries in parallel. Parallel combination doubles the available current but does not touch the available voltage.

These people are trying to sell a device that momentarily switches the batteries to a serial configuration, thereby doubling the voltage to 24v, twice what is "Safe" for our cars (or any 12v system) and then returning it to parallel 12v when done cranking.
It's nothing new. A battery was/is sold for 6 volt Porsches that made 12v for starting then switched back to 6v for running.
Newer cars with electronic equipment could have problems with a 24 volt start, so I would be very cautious about such a device.
Most non-electronic 12v equipment can safely handle 24v for a short time.

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  #62  
Old 01-14-2009, 06:51 PM
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Sure, I've jump-started the '42 Woody with a 12v car, it'll start it, just better to use a good 6v source.

That car has no electronics, the only thing I have to remember is to NOT push the brake pedal with teh 12v source hooked up or it will toast the brake-light bulbs. 24v is not recommended for starting a 12v engine.
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  #63  
Old 01-14-2009, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Sure, I've jump-started the '42 Woody with a 12v car, .
Nowadays most people just use Viagra.
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  #64  
Old 01-14-2009, 06:56 PM
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Not if you already have the woody, ...
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  #65  
Old 01-15-2009, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
It's nothing new. A battery was/is sold for 6 volt Porsches that made 12v for starting then switched back to 6v for running.
Newer cars with electronic equipment could have problems with a 24 volt start, so I would be very cautious about such a device.
Most non-electronic 12v equipment can safely handle 24v for a short time.
I think you're right. If there were a way (beyond what the ignition switch does) to ensure that ONLY the starter motor was receiving voltage during this process then it wouldn't be such a bad idea.
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  #66  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
"Normally" should keep batteries in parallel. Parallel combination doubles the available current but does not touch the available voltage.
Woops...i'll try keeping my series and parallel straight
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  #67  
Old 01-15-2009, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
It's nothing new. A battery was/is sold for 6 volt Porsches that made 12v for starting then switched back to 6v for running.
Newer cars with electronic equipment could have problems with a 24 volt start, so I would be very cautious about such a device.
Most non-electronic 12v equipment can safely handle 24v for a short time.
Loads of people convert old Farmall Tractors to 12v and use the old 6v starter, its a rugged beast and lasts just fine.
I'd guess that the same is probably true of the starters in our cars, just disconnect the normal wire to the starter and replace with one from the battery combiner, the starter is the only component that should see that voltage.
Thats a guess though, it could also be that 24v hits the starter and the magic smoke comes out and it never works again.

Now that I think of it I *think* I still have the starter from my 240D that didn't work when it got hot, might be interesting for a test...
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  #68  
Old 01-15-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
"Normally" should keep batteries in parallel. Parallel combination doubles the available current but does not touch the available voltage.
If you put two batteries in parallel, be sure that you have a fuse between them. Without a fuse, a shorted cell in one of the batteries could cause a fire.
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  #69  
Old 01-21-2009, 01:44 AM
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CHAD300TDT, Finally, something I can possibly help you with. Go to Backwoods Home magazine's website(backwoodshome.com) and look in the archives for articles by Jeff Yago. He put a battery in the back of his pickup that was charged by the alternator. His setup included a solar panel on the roof but you can omit that part. This was meant for camping but should work just fine for you. He even had wiring diagrams also. Believe it or not but Walmart has pretty good deep cycle batteries and inverters for a decent price. FYI Black and Decker brand inverters are made Vector. Hope this helps. Jeff


http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/yago93.html
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  #70  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:01 AM
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Also.....

My block heater pulls 420 watts of power as measured by a KILLOWATT meter. That might help you do the math for your battery size/alternator charging time. HTH, JEFF
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  #71  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:28 AM
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Thanks Jeff, that link is very cool. I haven't moved forward with this project yet because I'm having issues with my wagon again. Hopefully I can get back on track with this after today.

I put 5w40 syn in both vehicles last weekend and it made a HUGE difference in ease of starting for the CD, but the glow plug system on the wagon is acting funky. Today I'll be testing the wires, plugs, replacing and reaming and hopefully all will be good after that.
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  #72  
Old 01-21-2009, 10:14 AM
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Well they may sell a switching device that connects the batteries in series to put 24v to the starter, and the starter MAY handle it for short bursts for a little while.

BUT, I'll also bet you they put all kinds of disclaimers on their device saying they aren't responsible for any damage to your car or its electrical system/components. And if you are putting 24 volts on a device (starter) designed for 12 volts you WILL burn it up. Maybe not the first, or even fiftieth time, but it will happen.

Volts / Resistance = Amps and Volts x Amps = Watts. The starter windings are sized for 12 volts and have a certain resistance. Doubling the volts means twice the amps. Twice the amps AND twice the volts means FOUR times the watts. That power has to go (be dissapated) somewhere and where a lot if it goes is HEAT. Heat in the windings of a motor breaks down the insulation on the wire - and the winding wire is only insulated with a thin coating of "varnish" (plastic like coating) in the first place. Heat can cook the varnish off the windings causing a short.

Since the insulation on the windings is designed to withstand 12 volts and you are putting 24 volts to it, any thin or weak spots in the insulation are twice as likely to burn through and become a break in the insulation - again resulting in a short. Needless to say, a short in the windings equals a dead starter. Unfortunately, it only takes seconds for the starter to get really hot when cranking, even when connected to 12 volts, but it takes several minutes for one to cool down. Connected to 24 volts it will get hot four times as fast - or four times hotter in the same amount of time (remember: four times the Wattage), but won't cool down any faster.

So, while you may be able to get away with hitting the starter motor with double the voltage it was designed for, it is a crap shoot and you won't get away with it for long. It may work, or it may fry the starter the first time, but even if it doesn't, sooner or later you're going to crank it too long, or too many times without sufficient cool-down time, and fry your starter. I know I wouldn't do it except in an emergency - certainly not as a regular means of starting my car. Unless of course you happen to have several spare starters and like changing them
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  #73  
Old 01-21-2009, 01:53 PM
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All this talk about 12V, 24V batteries, series etc etc took me back about 30 years to a friends Sunoco station at Tenley Circle in D.C. The old Sears store/auto center was next door. A lady had them replace the battery in her 6V VW bug. She drove into the Sunoco station and asked the mechanic on duty to listen to her car. The jockey at Sears installed a 12V battery, the starter spun so fast it sounded like an air starter, the gauges were pegged and the lights were lit up like a Bally's pinball machine. Alan
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  #74  
Old 01-21-2009, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampYankee View Post
Similar to PanzerSD's suggestion but with a little different approach, how about a Mean Green starter http://www.mean-green.com/store/prodpage.cfm?CFID=571449&CFTOKEN=21426398&CategoryID=2

and a dual battery set-up with an automatic battery isolator/combiner
http://www.hellroaring.com/battery1.php ?

Cranking speed would never be an issue.

I would have never guessed MG would have a starter for an old Mercedes. It would almost be worth it just to hear that gear reduction work. I have one on my old Ford 460 (gear reduction, not MG brand) that was the answer to a hot start problem.

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