Fahrenheit is the temperature. Fuel filter is new, and I always use Stanadyne or Power service fuel treatment. I do not use biodiesel. Could compression be suffering? I make sure that at these temps that I use Rotella T 5-40 synthetic oil. Maybe it is just a downfall of an indirect injected engine.

Don't cycle the glow plugs like people recommend or do on the older diesels. Go through your normal sequence, but when the glow plug light goes off, don't do anything different. The glow plugs are still glowing and getting hotter. They glow up until 180 seconds or so, (you'll know when the glow plug relay kicks off as the dash lights get a little brighter :-) ). I usually waited at least another 20 seconds or so, I seriously counted 20 seconds prior to cranking, giving ample time for things to warm up prior to firing. Mine usually fired up without an issue, but it would and does nail like hell when it's that cold. My last winter prior to moving down South :-)

Mine will fire within the first few revolutions after glowing so long. In those temps you'll waste more battery energy cranking the engine longer, rather than glowing a little longer prior to cranking. I'll never forget, the last time my car was in those temps it was either 4 or -4 fahrenheit on the digital cluster. I let it glow around as long as I stated and it fired on the second revolution and came to life. Wooooom Woooooom, clank clank clank clank :-)



Regarding the sputtering, etc... I would say it could be in relation to the injectors ... i.e. calibration, etc....

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#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

NO NO to the Stanadyne. It's a good additive, but I believe it's still an emulsifier, it will separate the water from the fuel. The full flow filters are the only "water separators" on these diesels. Best to use an additive that has demulsification properties as our diesels do not have a water separator. I have been using the Redline Diesel Fuel Catalyst, which addresses this. Here is link to the Technical Information on this additive. I know Advance Auto Parts used to stock it but the one near me doesn't anymore.

RED LINEŽ DIESEL FUEL CATALYST with CETANE BOOSTER and FUEL LUBRICANT TECHNICAL INFORMATION

I have started my '98 after parking out overnight in below zero (F) weather with nothing more than the usual glow cycle (wait for the light to go out) and turn the key.

It never takes any more cranking than when it is 70 out. One or two revs with the starter and it starts. No shaking or bucking. If all was correct with yours it would not shake or buck either so there is something wrong here. I still suspect fuel or the additive you use. How long has it done this for? Do you always buy fuel at the same station?

They do nail a bit when cold, that is normal...they are also noticeably slower until they warm up a bit - also normal, but missing or smoking or bucking is abnormal.

Have you tried reading the OBDII for stored codes? You say it threw a CEL one time - I don't suppose you scanned it then?

Have you closely examined the top of the injector pump for diesel leaks? Any sign of leaks there would indicate bad delivery valve seals. Also, when was the last time you replaced the o-rings on the shutoff valve and prefilter? These are the three most often overlooked causes of performance/fuel system issues.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz