How was the cutting torch used? Was it used to heat and expand the knuckle? I've read in other posts that it was used to cut through the center of the ball joint then knock it out? Does cutting out the center relieve some internal pressure of the ball joint and allow it to come out easier or does the heat generated from the cutting process loosen the rust/ bond between the ball joint and the knuckle?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

This seems like an oddly equipped Machine Shop as apparently they did not have a Hydraulic Press to press the Ball Joint out with but they had a Sledge Hammer?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

A hydraulic press alone cannot press the lower ball joint out. A long heavy wall tube with a cut-out to clear knuckle interference and thus press square on the ball joint is also required.

I'd really like to see a video of someone using an 8 ft pry bar to pry the lower ball joint out of the knuckle. I won't believe it till I see it. lol

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The Kentec company sells that long tube ($95) for installing the Ball Joints with a Hyraulic press. I do not recall that it can be used for removal.
I would have to draw a pic of how to do it with an H press. And, it is near bed time for me.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think you're right. I have the knuckle with a bad ball joint on the bench and just took a closer look at it. The way the knuckle is made, it does not look like it is possible to get anything in there to get a straight and square support (with a bushing or tube) on the knuckle to press the ball joint out. If it does not come out easily with a sledge hammer and the correct size punch or drift, then heat is probably your best friend.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Burned out the middle and then a bit more toward one edge to really weaken the BJ and then one whack with a 16 oz. hammer.

It looks like it would take a few hours with a 6 axis CNC mill to make a support to hold the knukle in a press.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

I brought the knuckle with the bad ball joint to a shop and had it R&R-ed. It was clamped in a big vise mounted on a heavy metal table. With goggles and gloves on, one person held a small dead blow hammer (as a punch) on the ball joint, the other person swung a sledge hammer with a 3 ft handle onto the deadblow hammer with a swing as if splitting wood. Can't remember if it was 2 or 3 shots but it was knocked out in less than 30 seconds- no heat used. The shop had a custom made tool (welded heavy steel) to press the new ball joint into the knuckle.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

To get the lower joint out of the knicle, I used a 3lb sledge and a and a scrap piece of 1.5" x 6" Stainless steel rod.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K