Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-28-2009, 11:32 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mariettta
Posts: 15
My 240D

I have 165k miles on my 1983 240D, of which I put 70k miles on it. The car has had great care by the orignal owner and continue by me. I do have a couple of quesions that maybe some of you can help me with:

1. When should the timing chain be replaced? Is there a recommended mileage point or will it provide some tell tale signs that it needs replacing?

2. Car is a wonderful city car but on the highway it drive me nuts. At 75mph she feels like she is reving fairly high rpms. This gets old and tiresome on a long trip. The car has an automatic. What are options that can be done to drop the revs besides slowing down? In GA you get run over on most highways if you are no running at least 70 mph.

3. Lastly how hard is it to change the fuel filters. I outsource all my maintenance but do to an algae problem I have had I would like to be able to change the filters on the spot if I have some problems while on the road.

Thanks all in advance for yoru input.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-28-2009, 11:37 AM
moon161's Avatar
Formerly of Car Hell
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 2,057
3. Spin on fuel filter, driver side, just behind the power steering pump. Loosen the bolt, swap w/ one full of diesel, prime next to the IP.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-28-2009, 11:47 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 322
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
3. Spin on fuel filter, driver side, just behind the power steering pump. Loosen the bolt, swap w/ one full of diesel, prime next to the IP.
3. To replace the line filter, undo the clamp nearest the main filter first, lift up the end coming from the fuel tank so fuel doesn't run out, push the new filter into the fuel line. Lower the fuel filter/line with your finger over the output of the filter, push the filter into the fuel line, tighten the clamp. Prime with the plastic pump.
NOTE: Do not replace them at the same time or you will play hell starting the car. Replace the in-line filter, start the car, shut it off and replace the other filter.
Keep a supply of in-line filters and a phillips screwdriver in your trunk. They are cheap and you should replace them much more often than the main filter.
As to when you replace the timing chain - maybe in another 150K miles, maybe not even then.
__________________
Houston, Texas
1984 300CD 235K miles, Elvira, one owner
1987 300TD 180K miles
1974 TR6 78K miles Sarah Jane, one owner
OBK #27

Last edited by 123Guy; 02-28-2009 at 12:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-28-2009, 05:13 PM
zeke's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Alamo City, TEXAS
Posts: 1,189
1. When the chain stretch (check it when you do your valve job) can't be corrected with a factory offset woodruff key. Do a search on camshaft woodruff key or chain stretch
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-28-2009, 05:19 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
1. & 3. have ben covered.
2., well that's a 240, other than trying to find a different rear end gear, there is nothing else I can think of. These were designed for economical city driving, not highway cruising.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-28-2009, 07:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
Scratch off the 5 of 50 on the speedometer and paint in a 7. That's about the only way you'll solve the problem.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-28-2009, 07:33 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Stay off any roadway that begins with "I"

'Like say I-285 (where that's both the road designation and the speed limit.)

I remember going to Jacksonville from Savannah on I-95 in the late '70s in a
240D...When you got out of the car in Duval county,You'd be deaf and your
whole body still felt like it was vibrating.Ditto on the return.
__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-28-2009, 10:56 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by billatlanta View Post
I have 165k miles on my 1983 240D, of which I put 70k miles on it. The car has had great care by the orignal owner and continue by me. I do have a couple of quesions that maybe some of you can help me with:

1. When should the timing chain be replaced? Is there a recommended mileage point or will it provide some tell tale signs that it needs replacing?

2. Car is a wonderful city car but on the highway it drive me nuts. At 75mph she feels like she is reving fairly high rpms. This gets old and tiresome on a long trip. The car has an automatic. What are options that can be done to drop the revs besides slowing down? In GA you get run over on most highways if you are no running at least 70 mph.

3. Lastly how hard is it to change the fuel filters. I outsource all my maintenance but do to an algae problem I have had I would like to be able to change the filters on the spot if I have some problems while on the road.

Thanks all in advance for yoru input.
This is a split picture. The Camshaft Gear and Camshaft Tower marks are aligned on the Let side of the pic (do an exceptional job lining up the marks).
After the above you look at the Degree marks on you Crank Damper as seen in the Right side of the picture. This gives you an aproximate idea of how much off you Camshaft Timing might be.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-01-2009, 07:59 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,611
If you treat your fuel with biocide you will kill the bacteria and it will run through your filters and be burned up.

As for highway driving about 70 would be my limit with a 240 with an automatic. If you are ambitious you could possibly swap in a 346 diff to get a quieter cruising on the highway but you would sacrifice acceleration.....meaning getting on the highway would become even more of an adventure.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-01-2009, 08:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
This is a split picture. The Camshaft Gear and Camshaft Tower marks are aligned on the Let side of the pic (do an exceptional job lining up the marks).
After the above you look at the Degree marks on you Crank Damper as seen in the Right side of the picture. This gives you an aproximate idea of how much off you Camshaft Timing might be.
Great post. Is this of a OM617? Are the marks to line up on the Camshaft Gear and Tower the one's circled in red and yellow? Does the item circled in green point to the degree of timing? What would the reading in the picture be?

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
My 240D-cam.jpg  
__________________
'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-01-2009, 11:33 AM
Scott98's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Weston, FL
Posts: 1,254
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDBCB20 View Post
Are the marks to line up on the Camshaft Gear and Tower the one's circled in red and yellow? Does the item circled in green point to the degree of timing? What would the reading in the picture be?

Thanks.
Yes, yes (ideally should read somewhere between 0 and 2, probably no more than 4), and can't see the picture well enough.

Scott
__________________
Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-01-2009, 12:05 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDBCB20 View Post
Great post. Is this of a OM617? Are the marks to line up on the Camshaft Gear and Tower the one's circled in red and yellow? Does the item circled in green point to the degree of timing? What would the reading in the picture be?

Thanks.
Yes the pic is from my 84 300D OM617.952.Camshaft Gear and Tower the one's circled in red and yellow? Yes.

Does the item circled in green point to the degree of timing? Yes; and It is showing aproximately 2 degrees past the "0" which is Top Dead Center on #1 Piston.

This means my Camshaft Timing is 2 degrees retarded/late in timing (I did this check at 198,000 miles).The indication is that there is enough Timing Chain Stretch and wear on my Timing Gears to give me that 2 degrees late timing
There is a more accurate check called the 2mm Method that uses a dial indicator (Look in the DIY section as to how to do this).
If I had gotten a reading of les say 4 or more degrees of late timing I would do the 2mm Method to see more precisely what the timng is.

As mentioned by anothe Member they make some "Offset" Woodruff keys to compensate for the Timing Chain Stretch but I believe for my vehicle you have to have min of 4 Degrees of stretch to use one.

However, last Tuesday I did finally re-time my Fuel Injection Pump which also had late timing due to the fact that it is driven by the same Timing Chain.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 03-01-2009 at 12:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-01-2009, 12:18 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
Yes, yes (ideally should read somewhere between 0 and 2, probably no more than 4), and can't see the picture well enough.

Scott

Sorry about the poor pic. The pic is showing about 2 degrees of late timing.
It is also hard to determine because the marks are every 5 degrees so that anything inbetween must be guessed.

I was shocked to find that the marks are also every 5 degrees in the area where you time the IP. It goe from 20 to 25 degrees and the spec has 24 degrees + or - 1 degree. Leaving you to take your best guess.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page