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#1
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New glue bonds Polyethylene for door vapor barrier
After trying Rubber Cement and kids Sticky Glue (with terrible results) I found that Loctite Plastic Bonder works pretty good.
As you may know, almost nothing sticks to polyethylene. This stuff is like super glue with an activator. Here's how I used it. I cut a new vapor barrier (clear polyethylene, thick as I could find at the home center) using the old one as a pattern . Sharpie marker works good. I chose to only glue it at the top, and then let it hang down and be held in by the screws and fasteners (feedback welcome here). The activator is like a felt tip pen with clear fluid...you can't see it. So hold up the plastic to the door and draw a line with the sharpie where you are going to glue it. Draw right on top of the sheet. Then flip the sheet over onto the floor and you can see your mark thru the clear plastic. Draw with the activator pen on top of your line. Wait 60 seconds. Put a thin line of glue on your mark and hold it to the door for another 60 seconds. You're done. There are other threads on this topic, so read them to get the whole picture. Spray contact adhesive seems to work for some folks...I just didn't want the spray getting all over. Would be nice to know what the Germans used at the factory. |
#2
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This works perfectly:
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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000 1995 E300D 306,000 Sold 1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold 1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold 2016 Ford Fusion 24,900 |
#3
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That's a great idea. Wonder how it holds up?
Also, does anyone know if the glue is just to hold it in place until the interior door panel is attached??.......or, should it be glued all around to actually make an airtight seal? |
#4
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My experience is that Scotch tape adhesive is not very durable, and dries out after five or six years. It would not matter here, as the fasteners would hold it in place.
The Loctite would probably still be stuck after the Scotch double sided tape gave out. I used contact cement, which is messy, so I would prefer either of the things you mentioned. It is a vapor barrier. The purpose is to keep water from weather away from the upholstery and its backing. I don't think it is intended to be a waterproof seal.
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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf) 1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda) "Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana" ---Marx (Groucho) |
#5
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I've always used the 3M spray adhesive.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 ![]() |
#6
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I am using 3M Window Weld Butyl Ribbon Sealer. Some say this kind of stuff is reusable, but I just destroyed the OE vapor barrier because it sticks a bit too well. 3/8 is too much material so try to cut if back by stretching it or doing something else.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#7
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Answer
I use M 90 spray adhesive.
Spray both contact surfaces, give it 5 - 10 minutes to fully tack, then apply. . |
#8
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That's not pullable/re-stickable, is it? Do you cut a new barrier each time?
Where do you get M90? Extra heavy at the bottom to prevent leaks?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#9
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Quote:
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#10
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Elmers kraft bond worked for me
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#11
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Answer
Quote:
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#12
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Quote:
But you respray the m90 each time? Where do you buy it?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#13
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Quote:
I used 3M window weld butyl ribbon sealer which cleanly comes off, but it sticks enough that pulling the vb essentially wrecks it. But it is good tight sealant... A bead of something like you link to is easier to work.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#14
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PE is often used as a 'tie layer' when manufacturing multi-layer films. It's also used as a heat seal layer because of it's low melting temp. You might be able to iron it onto some thick single sided tape.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#15
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Answer
Auto parts stores.
Body shop supply. Craft stores. Marine supply stores. ETC, etc... Product Catalog Detail - Industrial Adhesives, Structural, Non-Structural, Bonding Tapes, Fasteners, Custom / Die Cuts - 3M US:*3M . |
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