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  #1  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:03 PM
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Front Shock - Lower Bolts

I have an 1985 300D. I've DIY'd US and Japanese cars for many years. This is my first German car and I love it.

The bottom bolts on the front shocks have what look like 12 lobes. My shop manual calls these "double hex bolts". I've never encountered them before. What are they? What kind of socket do I buy?

It's kind of funny because I'm rebuilding the suspension/steering and this is the only place I got stuck. I needed the shock out of the way so I sawzalled it off, but I still need the stump removed.


Last edited by sethgold; 05-14-2009 at 10:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sethgold View Post
I have an 1985 300D. I've DIY'd US and Japanese cars for many years. This is my first German car and I love it.

The bottom bolts on the front shocks have what look like 12 lobes. My shop manual calls these "double hex bolts". I've never encountered them before. What are they? What kind of socket do I buy?

It's kind of funny because I'm rebuilding the suspension/steering and this is the only place I got stuck. I needed the shock out of the way so I sawzalled it off, but I still need the stump removed.
a 12point 10 mm will do the job
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2009, 11:03 PM
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You did not say which Shop Manual you have; but, even the Mercedes manual has mistakes in the text (from translation?) or they have different names for things than we do.
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:12 PM
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Thanks. I'll try that.
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2009, 11:16 PM
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Fun with front shocks

Unless a previous owner installed the current shock with different type of hardware like a splined head bolt or something odd like that, you should be able to remove the shock without destroying it. MBZ used a double hex(12 Pt) head bolt for a reason. To remove or install the shock you will need a 12 point closed end wrench. Access is pretty tight. Get one bolt removed and have to twist the shock into or out of place and then get the other bolt moving. Turning the bolts takes a while because you can only turn it a few degrees at a time because of clearances in that area. Again thats why the 12 Pt head on the bolt. It would be much more difficult with a 6 Pt head on the bolt.

That was my experience with it.

EddieE
"87 300SDL 325K and dead in my driveway.......again
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2009, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYWULF View Post
Unless a previous owner installed the current shock with different type of hardware like a splined head bolt or something odd like that, you should be able to remove the shock without destroying it. MBZ used a double hex(12 Pt) head bolt for a reason. To remove or install the shock you will need a 12 point closed end wrench. Access is pretty tight. Get one bolt removed and have to twist the shock into or out of place and then get the other bolt moving. Turning the bolts takes a while because you can only turn it a few degrees at a time because of clearances in that area. Again thats why the 12 Pt head on the bolt. It would be much more difficult with a 6 Pt head on the bolt.

That was my experience with it.

EddieE
"87 300SDL 325K and dead in my driveway.......again
x2
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2009, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FLYWULF View Post
Turning the bolts takes a while because you can only turn it a few degrees at a time because of clearances in that area. Again thats why the 12 Pt head on the bolt. It would be much more difficult with a 6 Pt head on the bolt.
If you are using a 12-point wrench, it makes absolutely no difference whether the bolt head has six points or twelve. The wrench still has to move 30 degrees for the next "bite."
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:52 AM
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New front shocks come with a 12 point thin walled 10mm socket, the key being thin walled.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:31 AM
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I could not locate a thin walled socket and was able to remove and reinstall the bolts with a small 10mm open end wrench
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2009, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitcakesa View Post
a small 10mm open end wrench
That's not possible on a 12 pt. fastener. I presume that you utilized a box wrench.
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  #11  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
New front shocks come with a 12 point thin walled 10mm socket, the key being thin walled.
Some, not all. Mine didn't.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If you are using a 12-point wrench, it makes absolutely no difference whether the bolt head has six points or twelve. The wrench still has to move 30 degrees for the next "bite."
Now you've put my mind in a geometric funk. There has to be 30 degrees of total movement, but can't half the movement be in the nut and half in the wrench? In other words, you can get increments of 15 degrees with twelve point nut and twelve point wrench but only 30 degrees with a six point nut and a twelve point wrench?
The intuitive feel of removing those bolts told me I could get much smaller increments of movement than with a 6 point bolt.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:56 AM
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I had room on the SD to remove them with a socket and extension. Remove the outer one, Tip the shock out wards, and remove the innner one. Install inner, Compress shock and place in mounting hole, install outer bolt, faten top of shock.
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2009, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Now you've put my mind in a geometric funk. There has to be 30 degrees of total movement, but can't half the movement be in the nut and half in the wrench?
Actually, you can get away with 15 degrees of rotation on a hex head (six point) bolt by alternately flipping an open-end wrench with a 15 degree offset. That's not an option with a double hex fastener, unless your box end is also offset.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
In other words, you can get increments of 15 degrees with twelve point nut and twelve point wrench...?
Sure. Provided that the nut and wrench turn separately in opposite directions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
The intuitive feel of removing those bolts told me I could get much smaller increments of movement than with a 6 point bolt.
Much like a pound of lead seems heavier than a pound of feathers, I suppose.
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2009, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Some, not all. Mine didn't.
Sorry, must be cost cuts, both sets of Bilstein's I bought did.
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Front Shock - Lower Bolts-shock-socket.jpg  

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