I am in the process of rebuilding my '79 240D with a 616.912 series engine. After removal of the vacuum pump / IP drive sprocket I noticed that the two bevel gears that are on the IP shaft and oil pump shaft appear to be worn. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I can find replacements? None of the online shops seem to go to that level of detail on their parts listings...

Thanks!

You are going to be hard-pressed to find replacement parts to rebuild your 29 yr old oil pump. However, if you are feeling lucky, click the 'BUY PARTS' link at the top of your page and look to the left for a 1-800 number. This gets you to a guy named Phil.... he's the best thing since sliced bread... maybe even the lightbulb. If he can't get it, call your local dealer, but you'll be farther ahead by purchasing an entirely new Oil pump.

As for the 'bevel gear' in the IP timer / IP shaft - I am not aware of one that exists there. I have attached a photo to ensure we are on the same page. Perhaps you meant 'helical'? This is an item that is more likely to be available. But not readily so.

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I looked at the Russian EPC site and there may be Different Shaft Sets for different Engine numbers.
One of the Online Retailers I looked at also showed different Intermediate Shaft Sets per different Engine number with prices in the range $380-$600+ depending on which Engine you have.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

just for the IP shaft?!! Doesnt that include the timing gear? That is a sin.

Maybe he can tell us exactly what he is talking about.

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The impellers inside the oil pump look like simple gears and are available from the dealer at a price that is significantly less than mentioned here. They do wear and need replacing on some motors when a rebuild is done. My favorite machinist checks them and tells me when I need them.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Daren,
I recently overhauled my 240D engine and had the same issue. Luckily, the machine shop where I had the block worked on had a good used one. However, they are available, probably from Fastlane. They come as an "intermediate gear set" and are not sold individually. They are pricey.

The non-turbo Engines have a different Oil Pump and Oil Pump Drive set up. From the quick look that I took when looking for the part the 2 shafts are listed as a "Intermediate Shaft Set".

Look at item #35 at the Russian EPC Site
7 Intermediate Shaft Sets are listed with note numbers on the far right colum that referance down to to the bottom of the page were there are various Engine Numbers per Intermediate Shaft Sets.

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=123123&M=616%2E912&GA=722%2E117404&GM=716%2E005210%2C214+++++++717%2E400&CT=M&cat=004&SID=05&SGR=015&SGN=01

This is to the Russian EPC site chassie listing; he has a 123.123 chassie.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When replacing--or just inspecting-- these shafts/gears, replace the bearing/bushes also,--Especially the one behind the I.P Timer/Sprocket, which can wear Externally and become loose in the block....

there is an earlier and a later type. The earlier one has a small bush face on the 'vertical' oil-pump drive shaft gear top bearing (The part thats pressed into block holding bush)

These earlier ones wear quite badly.

The later ones have a larger thrust-face and wear less. These are fitted to 615, 616 and N/A 617 engines

Both types are interchangeable PROVIDING you have the plug/bush holder (oil-pump drive-shaft top bearing holder) that fits into the block matching whichever type you want to fit....

My 1980 N/A 617 had the 'smaller' thrust face version, and I have installed the 'later' large thrust-face version from a later 616 in its place as the bush and O.P. drive gear and thrust-face was worn.....

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

It looks like you guys hit this one right on! To clarify the issue, I have a new oil pump, but item #42 in the schematic drives a second helical gear (Thanks jt20!) which in-turn rotates the input blade on the oil pump. I guess I'll try to scrounge up a used set if possible. I think alastair has a good idea in replacing the two shaft bushings. These are probably worn and caused the misalignment and gear wear. 90% of the problem is trying to describe the issue and get the right name for the parts...

Thanks!

thanks for clarifying.

The design for that bushing and shaft in the IP timing gear was updated to provide better lubrication in that area... at least for the 617 models. I imagine, if you are looking for used parts, that you may want find later model 616 / 617 more desirable. There is a very good chance that this part is the same for both models, since the I am lead to believe the timing gear is.

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Yes, It 'Appears' that they are the same part, although I have heard tell they are 'Matched' -ie- the IP timing-gear and the oil-pump gear...

Best replace them as a 'Pair' anyway. IF you must change from one type to another, Its important to use the correct bush-holder for the Oil-Pump gear. (The part that fits into the block above the oil-pump gear) One is slightly shorter than the other, and the bushes are different. Just replace all three parts from the 'donor' engine would be best....

I believe the Bush directly behind the timing-sprocket/IP Timer is the same on all models, and does wear, which is easy to spot. With shaft installed, and without the IP Timer fitted- Pull/push it horizontally, There should be just perceptable play, and the bush should not be loose in the block....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Hi ,How do I remove this assembly ,I have removed everything that looks like it could retain the shafts but it is not moving and I don't want to apply force....I have a 1972 -220D

Assuming you've removed the oil pump =>

The vertical shaft needs to be removed first. If you've taken out the cap (that can be a connection for a mechanical speedometer by the way - cool eh?) then you can tap it upwards with a copper drift.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanx ,I got it out...