OK, so I have spent the last hour reading posts about IPs, and idle(idel), and have been unable to answer my question. Please help. I am working on a 1981 240D with a manual transmission that has been sitting for over two years. The PO had run a fair amount of BAD b100 through it and killed the IP. So, what I have done, is as follows...pulled and cleaned the tank, new screen, new fuel lines(all of them), rebuilt IP, new filters, injectors, valve adjustment, motor mounts, new fuel pump, new hand pump, the list goes on and on. When I took the old IP out, I marked the location. When the new IP arrived and measured and marked the new one before installation. The motor was set at 26btdc or very close to it, and the new pump put in. I checked the fuel delivery before I tightened everything, and the fuel seemed to be flowing as it is supposed to. To start this car, it takes several tries of cranking, and with the throttle help down with my foot, it will finally catch. I have to keep my foot on throttle for a bit until it warms up. Once warm, it seems to idle fine. I don't know how it started before, but what a pita. I did a compression check,which was fine(relatively). The idle adjustment thing is garbage, so I don't know if that is an issue, also I don't know how hard it was to start before, so I dunno....what should I check first. I do not have the fancy tool for checking the fuel delivery timing, I just unbolted number one, and checked it like that...any ideas? Moving the IP which way does what is my biggest question. I am thinking the timing may need to go up a bit...

Top of pump towards the block advances timing. I would recheck the drip timing first. It sounds like you used the overflow method. Some people reported issues with that.

On the older cars the dash idle adjustment did have to be advanced sometimes either to start a cold engine. Or get a reasonable idle till engine warmed a little. Some of your descriptions sound different for a rebuilt pump. I would first verify the pump to engine timing again. I have three cars with that idle adjustment...

I am getting ready to go out and do just that..I may play with it a bit and see what happens...

soooo checking the timing has given me more issues....for the start of delivery (25btdc?) I should be looking at the highest part of the cam lobe on number one? I am not, not even close. Please advise.

I am not sure what you mean by your description . The exhaust and intake lobes of the number one cylinder should be about the ten and two oclock position. Or fairly close to it. If the lobes are pointing other places then at least some indication of a fault has been located. I really did not like your earlier description of problems with a rebuilt injection pump.

Now if the lobes are pointing downward you are also on the wrong stroke. With all your issues something wrong in this area is easily possible. The best part is it is labour intensive rather than parts.

Sounds like a glow plug problem, but maybe that's unspoken? Just throwing that out there, maybe it's warm enough already that you don't need 'em, but that's the first thing that came to my mind when I read that starting issue. I can't help with the IP timing.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

I am getting ready to call the guy that rebuilt the pump. The placement of the pump is exactly where the old one was...I can see no timing issues. The valves are good, it just does not want to catch an idle....maybe it needs a break in period? Its fine if you can get it warm. What a pita..

I have an 81 240D w/manual tranny too. I don't have the idle adjusting knob working at the moment. When I first got the car, I did adjust it for the few time I drove it. I took it apart for about a year and a half. WIth the idle adjustment all the way down, it would start and run. It ran a bit rough, but driveable. I think/thought the crank position was 24 degrees BDC to set the Injector pump. I don't know if 2 degrees would affect you. I might be wrong on that.
I remember some starting problems back then. When I was taking stuff off, the electrical connectors to the glow plugs were crudely crimped on. Some came off. I replaced them. I did take them out, inspect them and ream out the carbon deposits. You might check them.
Tom

sonofa*****....so I have learned that even if the crank says 24btdc, check the cam lobes to be sure you are at the right 24btdc...I will get it back together and let everyone know how I make out...sonofa*****

You are not alone in not having the mental concept of the four stroke engine having 720 degrees of rotation in a cycle.
This means that the crank looks exactly the same at the proper point you are looking for....and at 360 degree from that point... and the only way to tell is to look at the cam pulley or the lobes of the camshaft...
It is FOUR STROKES, two complete revolutions to accomplish that... 360x2= 720 degrees of turn total....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

DinNC,

I think I may have chatted to you about a 300TD you had for sale. Hope you got it sold!

Anyway, if you need a IP that is known good, I have one from a 240D that blew up going about 70 mph. Pulled before I sent the rest of the car to the junkyard. Free if you want to swing by the Clayton area. IM me if interested.

Klaus

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‘84 300TD “Mountain Goat”
'62 300d Adenauer-350 Chevy - "Max"
'15 VW Passat TDI
'16 Dodge Ram 3500 - Cummins w/6-speed
'68 Mustang fastback
'55 T-bird
‘63 Studebaker Hawk

PM sent...I did sell it, with great regret. The new owner bought it just for the rear end and couldnt care less about the rest of it. That was a nice car. I am on the look out for another...