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#16
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I didn't have any trouble getting my fenders off. Mike D tells me that, with my rust, mine won't hold up in an accident, so you may want to consider that when making your decision. You will never know the extent of the rust until you remove all the undercoating/insulation. Looks like you may have as must floorpan rust as me from that third picture.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold ![]() 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#17
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#18
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Quote:
She has hope man, don't give up because you think you can't fix it. If you know you want to do it, then you know you can learn it. You'll really appreciate a car that you put a lot of work into. Body work is not hard in any way, doing body work right is what you need to worry about. You don't have it that bad, check out some of the rust on my 240D "Betsy" http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m258/iNick01/Mercedes%20240D/100_0670.jpg http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m258/iNick01/Mercedes%20240D/100_0688.jpg http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m258/iNick01/Mercedes%20240D/100_0689.jpg http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m258/iNick01/Mercedes%20240D/100_0697.jpg |
#19
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As long as I can do better than this guy: ![]()
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#20
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Ugh ... the floorpans are shot, too. At least in the back. I can't even get the sound barrier off in the front. I am never going to be able to fix this, I can't even figure out how to take things apart.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#21
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Even if you end up deciding not to fix your 240D I think you would enjoy a welding class.
I admire your ambition, the problem with this sort of repair is that you don't really know what you are getting into until you get it all apart and grind away all the undercoating to take a good look. I don't want to further depress you but its been my experience that there will ultimately be about twice as much rust present as you can see on an initial inspection. It is very satisfying to do this sort of rust repair but it is very time consuming. As others have said you almost have to have a dedicated garage space since the car will be laid up for at least a couple of weeks - and most likely more like a couple of months... or years!
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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K) 13 GLK250 (157k) 06 E320CDI (341K) 16 C300 (89K) 82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K) |
#22
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Don't get discouraged about not being able to take things apart. The front stuff is thicker, but you'll find a way. If you want to do it, you can do it. If you're not dependent on it, you have room and time for it, and you love the car, you can do it. Body work is an art, and think of everything you'll take away from such a restoration. That's what I keep telling myself.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold ![]() 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#23
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I'm with Tim. Learn to do the repair work, and use Chase as your real-world practice car. You might find Chase is easier to fix than you think once you know how, but probably not. Either way, you'll gain valuable skills and experience for the next car you have that has some rust.
Borrow some space in your parents garage for a week here and there while you're learning. Make sure you take that spot all the way to finish paint because there's nothing worse than knowing how to get the job partly done without knowing how to completely finish it.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#24
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![]() I think the best thing to do will be to get it in the garage and just start stripping stuff off. Then I can try to repair it, and if it doesn't work out, I can sell the parts to fellow forumites, put the engine in another car and at least be able to say Chase is living on and helping others. Of course you know if I can accomplish repairing it, I'm then going to be tempted to fix the '75 ... which is, if you can believe it, worse than this one. ![]()
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#25
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You should see if there is an autobody class somewhere like your local Community college or a vocational school and try enroll in there with the intention of having your car worked on there. It would be helpful to have someone guide you through the recovery process, as well as helping other students by seeing how it would be done. Even if your class only has time for few sections, it would be still helpful.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#26
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Quote:
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold ![]() 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#27
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This is so sad. Stage IV cancer.
![]() I have an idea! Take note of which parts of your car are still good, then look for one that has those parts damaged, but is in good shape otherwise. I felt attached to my Plymouth Acclaim LX. After years of driving expensive cars, I bought it slightly used, at a great price and drove it through 6 years of school. I fully expected it be a piece of crap! It turned out to be the most reliable and comfortable car I've ever owned. And it was a lot more fun, than you might think. During the same month, the Catalytic converter melted, and the transmission went out. The car had 230k miles, and just was not worth putting a lot of money into. But it had never been in an accident, all body parts, and most other parts were in excellent condition. I was just about to have it taken to the junkyard, when I came across a low mile Lebaron with dents in all the right places! It had been owned by an elderly person, who drove by Braile! I spent a few months swapping out the good parts from my old car, and ended up with a reliable and beautiful (IMO) reincarnation. I use it for tough duty work like taking my dog to the dog park, driving on unpaved mountain roads, driving through blizzards, trips to Home Depot, towing trailers of trash to the dump, etc. I have my time, and $1300 invested. Five years, and 35k miles later it has only needed 2 repairs. A starter, and a radiator, both of which were cannibalized from the old car. Sorry that's so long, I seem to feel like I need to over-explain, because some people thought I was crazy to buy a 2nd old Chrysler, and restore it. Both cars were white, which helped. I doubt I would have done it if I knew the whole thing would need repainted at the end. I sometimes face the same dilemma with my 240D. I know it's never going to be a really valuable car, no matter what I spend on it. If I wanted to take it to a high level of perfection, I should have bought a Coupe, since they should hold their value the best.
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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex. 1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack! ![]() |
#28
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Mine's worse
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#29
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Bhodi rust
I have to say I HATE body work, but have won some awards at restoration.I'm pretty good at it. I'm a natural pessimist, so read into this what you will.I have the welding skills, the body work skills and the paint skills to fix yourrust. Unless you are doing it as a practice and learning exercise, don't do it.I agree with the folks that say just use up this car. If you think you might usethe skills you learn on a regular basis, then go for it. You'll need a good littlemig welder like a Lincoln. I use a brand of bondo called "all- metal". Aluminumpowder in a polyester matrix. POR-15 coats all these repairs inside and out.Works very well. Use rubber gloves. The stuff gets on your skin and has to wear off. IMHO I would not do it. Buy a Ferrari that needs resto. Same amount of work and value added,hehe. You are looking at a LOT of hard work.I'd find another body and transplant. Look at what I did on my TD. That wasminor rust, and worth the work. Yours is too far gone in my opinion.Hey does Bhodi refer to the bhodi tree? Zen?
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85 300TD FED-Daily 84 300SD-Wife's 86 XJS-Sunday 66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson 83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson |
#30
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Quote:
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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