The block was dry. It was shipped to me 6 years ago by another forum member and since then it was cleaned and had new piston liners installed. But I didn't take a tap down the holes nor use a rotation gauge. I think I picked one up once, but I don't know where it is.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Okay first thing is first where are you located, a very nice forum member might be willing (for a beer or steak or both) to come and help you. Second how many miles on your car? You might need to replace your timing chain while you are there. You will need to find a good machine shop to check your head and clean it and maybe relap the valves ect ect....I would also suggest changing your glowplugs while you have the head off. Those are just suggestions. You will need all associated gaskets with the job. Others have taken the head off on this particular model and will be able to help you more....good luck!

Search this forum first... there are a lot of threads about the 60x head replacement, including this recent thread. You'll need the factory manual, head gasket set, injector deep socket, 12-pt drive tool for the head bolts, a rail pin puller like this one is recommended, plus assorted hand tools. Some assorted parts should be replaced while it's apart, nothing super expensive though... upper chain rail, turbo oil drail O-rings, valve cover gasket (if it's not fairly recent), injector return hose, things like that.

Trouble areas - make sure you have ALL the bolts removed, and the oil feed hose removed, and brackets below the turbo... before trying to pull the head off the engine! If it doesn't come loose, don't force it - you probably missed something. You'll need to chase the head bolts (and measure them), and tap all the holes in the block, and dry them, as mentioned above. That alone takes a couple of hours.




It's about 20-30 hours for a first-time DIY. Nearly half that is cleaning the block surface, chasing the bolt & block threads, general inspection, and basically getting it ready to re-install. If you don't have the tools to mess with the head, have a machine shop check it for flatness, and have them replace the valve stem seals. Hopefully there is no damage to the head.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I'm tired of using old nuts and bolts, so I've just bought one of these too.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I'm located in Utah, a small place called Eagle Mountain. I have some neighbors who have lots of experience with cars and engines (and lots of things) in general, not Mercedes but... you know. As for the miles... I can't be sure, odometer says about 70k right now, PO said it was replaced at 70K and my title says the odometer reading is "exempt" :\ I would guess that it has more than the 140k but... I just don't know.

What factory manual do you suggest, a CD? Or Book? I dunno where to get it...

Is relaping the valves changing the valve stem seals, and if not should I do that? What about replacing the valve guides, valve keepers, cam follower, or prechamber. Are there valve springs, and should they be replaced?

Do these cars need valve adjustments and should I do a timing adjustment?

There's a lot I don't know about all this, and right now I'm shakin in my boots but I hope to get someone to help me.

And thank you for the help so far. Guess I need to start ordering parts and get this show on the road. Hope I blow up my car

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1992 300D OM602

Ben

If they are willing to follow directions in the factory manual, they may be helpful. If they just want to "wing it" based on their knowledge of other cars, I'd keep them as spectators, lol.



The printed manuals are no longer available new, only used via eBay, book stores, etc. It's nice to have them, but NOT cheap to pick up all the manuals separately (there are a half-dozen total). The CD is posted online here.



Re-lapping the valve seat may not be needed, the machine shop can determine this when the valves are removed for inspection. The valve guides should also not need replacement (it's common for the gas cars to need guides by 200kmi, but not the diesels). Prechambers do not need replacement unless physically damaged. Ditto for the valve keepers and springs. The cam followers (hydraulic lifters) should probably be replaced if you had a "ticking" lifter or two... but they're expensive, about $20 each, and there are ten of 'em. If you had quiet lifters, you can probably skip this. The valve stem seals look like this... make sure you get the style shown on the left side.



No valve adjustment is needed, the hydrualic lifters compensate automatically. You should check chain stretch and replace the chain if it's beyond spec (limit is 4° of stretch), as shown in this TSB. When you're done with the job and the engine is running again, I'd check the IP timing, that's basically the only adjustment to worry about.

Bring it across to Holland Michael, we'll do mine at the same time.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I'm going to look at one of these tomorrow that is reported to have a bad head gasket.

Sounds like if I buy it I'll have lots of good company.

I've never attempted something this major. Not sure that I want to. Anyone have their head gasket replaced by an indy? I'm curious how much it would cost to have it done.

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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!

Yeah, I saw that one for sale in Ogden... wonder what the condition is, with almost 300k on the car. Could be a good deal if it's in nice shape, and ONLY needs a head gasket. I'd go check it out if it were closer, but they say it's not driveable, and I don't have a way to haul it to Boise economically.

At an indy shop, figure minimum 10-15 hours labor, 15-20 max, for a straight head gasket job. If they find anything else while they're in there, like a bad timing chain, etc that figure could increase. Basic parts shouldn't be too much, most likely under $200, but again if they find other things... could jump to $300-$500 in parts. If fluids mixed, tack on the cost of an oil & coolant flush + change. I'd expect the estimate to come in somewhere between $1200 and $1800, depending on the local labor rate, and the shop's expertise with these engines. If you get a quote, please post details here, I'd love to know the going rate!

Well we're on our way. Valve cover off, turbo off. Having some difficulty with bolts on the intake. The 3 inside on the middle three cylindes are stuck tight. They are soaking in PB blaster right now (hope it helps).

I am wondering about the Timing Chain. Thank you gxsr for the right up on how to check for stretch. I will do this before I remove the head. My question is how do you remove the chain from the sproket so you can remove the head? There is a funky looking splined nut on the sproket. Is this what needs to come off to take the sproket/Chain off?. What size is this nut? Must be a special socket to use on this.

Once the chain is off and the head bolts removed can the head be pulled up with everything intact ie. cam shaft, valves. What is the best way to release the head from the block? Will it be stuck to the block?

I am hoping to take the complete intact head to the machine shop and have them go over it. Will it cost more if it is not dissassembled?
Thank you for all the help

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1992 300D OM602

Ben

Oh, another question. Some of the intake manifold bolts are kind of stripped... oops... I've looked at a couple online parts stores and can't find any new ones, I'm wondering where I can get those. And also, in that factory manual it has the tightening diagram, but I can't for the life of me read the numbers to figure out which order to take out/put in the bolts.. help on that please?

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1992 300D OM602

Ben

As for the parts if you are not sure click the link at the top of the page and talk to phil. If he can't get it for you it don't exist...

The bolt takes a regular 12-point socket.

The chain can be zip-tied to the timing gear and left on the engine, have to remove the pin and upper chain guide.

Also be careful as there are two small bolts down in the chain cavity at the front of the head holding the head to the block (easy to miss).

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Ditto what Jeff said. Make sure you follow the factory manual procedure closely, it will show each item that must be removed, including the two "hidden" bolts at the front of the head. When you remove the camshaft sprocket, the chain will lay in the cavity. There are TWO rail pins holding in the upper chain rail, both must be removed. The exhaust manifold and turbo can remain attached to the head if desired. The head should not be stuck to the block tightly... if you pry up gently, it should come off the block with minimal effort. If you have to use any serious muscle to pry the head up, and it snaps back down, you probably missed one or more items. Don't forget the bracket below the turbo, and the turbo oil line, fuel filter housing bolts, and count to make sure you removed all of the primary head bolts.

If you remove the camshaft, follow the factory procedure, there is a specific bolt sequence, and they must be loosened 1 turn at a time. If you don't follow this sequence, the camshaft can snap due to pressure from the valve springs.

Lowes had some bolts that were a perfect match except that they weren't galvanized like the mercedes intake manifold bolts. They will work in a pinch, especially if you put them on some of the more accessible areas to replace your stripped ones. I also found some stainless steel bolts at Lowes that were the right pitch and size but were not allen head. Again, those will work in a pinch, especially where installed in the upper, accessible holes.

You can get replacements from your MB dealer of course. Once you know the correct bolt description, which you can get matching the bolt at Lowes, you should be able to find some stainless steel replacements online, which I think would be preferable over the galvanized ones.

One thing about the intake gasket -- the one that you get from MB is of a higher quality and of different construction from some of the aftermarket ones out there.

Ben, in the factory manual pdfs the preview image is sometimes not very good quality and smaller diagrams can often be read better when actually printed.

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1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update