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  #16  
Old 12-15-2009, 03:30 PM
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I did that one winter when it was below freezing and I had to leave the house about 5 in the morning in my Karman Ghia... I took the oil out the night before and kept it in the house... of course the air cooled VW engine only uses about 2.5 quarts of oil.....LOL

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  #17  
Old 12-15-2009, 03:33 PM
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Make sure you are not using too heavy an oil. 15w started fine in the summer, but gave me lots of issue in the winter. Switching to 5w dramaticvally helped cold starts for me...
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2009, 04:39 PM
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Adjust your valves.
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:41 PM
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I suspect the most likely culprits as stated by others is your oil and glow plugs.

Switch to a synthetic 5W-40(I recommend Mobil 1 Truck and SUV but Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 is good enough).

I would also make damn sure your glow plugs are working.

Getting those two issues lined out will definitely resolve your starting problems in relatively "warm" weather.

Last year in my W123 I accidentally roped Autozone into giving me new starter and battery because it wouldn't start in similar temperatures.

It turned out that my oil was the problem.

Once I switched the oil to a synthetic 5W-40 it fired right up with the same starter and battery.
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattBelliveau View Post
Make sure you are not using too heavy an oil. 15w started fine in the summer, but gave me lots of issue in the winter. Switching to 5w dramaticvally helped cold starts for me...
+1
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  #21  
Old 12-20-2009, 11:15 AM
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Do you heat with hot water? If so and you can park close enough you could try fashioning a crude heat exchanger in the heater circuit of the car. Using hydraulic quick disconnects will prevent coolant loss when (dis)connecting. Just make sure you have something in the "house side" of the exchanger for expansion.

Just a thought..
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  #22  
Old 12-20-2009, 11:37 AM
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I have brought the battery in for the evening, but never the oil. You a better man than me,
I have used a trouble light 60W next to the IP ovenite with success. I also remember my Dad using a railroad kerosene lantern inside the engine comp. but that was with straight 6's in the 60's & 70's.You had enough room to sit on the fender with both feet within the comp.

Good Luck,
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2009, 05:07 PM
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Some of these answers seem to ignore the way in which our engines ignite the fuel mixture.. strictly by the speedy compression of the air and then injecting a spray of diesel....
If the block bore is cold enough to keep the air from heating up when starting with very cold air.. ... ...( with no intake heater on our cars ) and the compression is not perfect in a 25 year old car...
then the cold air itself can certainly make for a hard starting situation..
and this " I heard it meant" minus 10 degrees F just does not cut it..
If you can refer us to something MB wrote that said that great... but I will bet you can not...
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2009, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Pouring boiling water on cold cast iron is a TERRIBLE IDEA...
DO NOT DO THAT !!!!!

not just the block ... but even less hot/cold shock could damage the injection pump...
just forget this idea and warm the water inside the block...
Ouch thanks man I will keep that in mind. Goodness I never had the opportunity to do such a thing.

I'll get a coolant heater when the time comes.
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2009, 05:55 PM
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Even just directing the typical power washer onto the injection pump can be a disaster... very close tolerances.... you can cover it to wash close by on the engine ...
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  #26  
Old 12-20-2009, 08:16 PM
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no doubt adjusting valves, assuring glow plugs are working, etc., will help. Don't discount a shot of WD-40 into the intake in a pinch. Just used that the other morning on my Dodge (12V Cummins) and it fired off instantly and then ran fine without incident. Not saying its a cure, but if you're in a fix it won't hurt.
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Sbean View Post
Merecedes owner's manuals (Mine's from 1980) used to suggests adding up to 50% kerosene or up to 30% regular unleaded gasoline in very cold temperatures, if #1 diesel was not available. I don't know when they stopped recommending it. Steve
about 1973, when the fuel started lubricating the fuel injection pump directly. Besides the intent was never more than about 10% by volume MAX.
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strelnik View Post
about 1973, when the fuel started lubricating the fuel injection pump directly. Besides the intent was never more than about 10% by volume MAX.
my 1982 owners manual states to mix gasoline with diesel fuel in subzero temps if gelling causes problems and if kerosene isn't available.
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  #29  
Old 12-20-2009, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by strelnik View Post
about 1973, when the fuel started lubricating the fuel injection pump directly. Besides the intent was never more than about 10% by volume MAX.
Where did you GET that ?

Since my 1980 owners manual quotes a higher percentage of gas allowed to be mixed with the diesel in cold weather... I would like some kind of reference from some kind of Mercedes literature.... otherwise it looks like you made it up. You know, some people do those kinds of things...
Show us you got that somewhere legit....
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  #30  
Old 12-20-2009, 10:55 PM
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If never heard so many weird explanations. I have seen many diesel mercedes not start in 20 degree weather. A bloack heater always solves this problem.

I think we need more information about the subject vehicle. Perhaps the motor is owearing out. Who knows. I think we need to hear back from the guy asking the question.

I do agree that everything needs to be tuned up including the valves, but I also think that these motors with a lot of miles will have trouble starting in 20 degree weather even with everything tuned up.

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