Does anyone have any pictures of a clean surface? Mine is attached.

I used a razor blade at first, then I moved onto a large sharpening stone (about 6"x2"x1" and went over the surface for a while. I can still see the original machine marks.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

It would take a huge amount of work to "round" a piece of metal with a grinding stone to any significant extent. Only a very tiny amount of metal will be removed. The stone basically cleans, and the paper gasket will crush to fill any voids between the mating surfaces.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

Excellent.

It is not worth the cost of a new stone for me to try this.
All of my stones are contoured from long use.

I am a pessimist when it comes to Gaskets sealing.
I would use an old school gasket sealer on that gasket called Gasgacinch.

It is a thin rubber cement that if applied to a paper gasket will actuall soak into the gasket material and give will sort of rubberize the gasket.

If you are willing to wait the time for it to dry completely you can apply severa coats letting it dry completely inbetween each coat.

It is thin enough that you do not have to worry about it clogging up holes or breaking loose and circulating into the system (if you let it dry completely).

If you coat the Part and the Gasket and let it dry till both are sticky you can stick the Gasket in place and if you let it dry for a while there it will stay on the part during assembly.

Personal choice:
I will be facing changing the Oil Filter to Block gasket at some point as mine leaks some and I will follow my own advice when I do so.
I also do not plan to stone the Block Oil Filter Mating surface as I consider that too cramped of a space to work in without getting some of the gritty stuff inside; meaning it dose not look like an easy area to clean.

If I was rebuilding the Engine that would be a different situation.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, I agree, doing this job out of the car seems much easier, that's why I used the stone

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

If I recall, the factory type gaskets does have some kind of coating. Maybe an embedded rubberized coating . It's definitely not the typical paper gasket where you can see and feel paper on the mating surfaces.



I prefer to not use any sealer on this gasket if you are using the factory type.



And definitely change out the oil pressure switch gasket too.




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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I have not been able to have one of the gaskets in hand and have only seen them in pictures. But, I am a pessimist concerning gasktes sealing by themselves.
What I was hinting at is that there is a safe alternative to stoning down the surfaces.
I also think it is useful to use the Gasket Sealer to glue the Gasket to one side of what ever your are assembling to prevent it from moving when installing the part.

About A Month ago one of the Members said there is an updated gasket with a waffel pattern. I think he also sent the below pic.

I have noticed that the various internet part sellers seem to sell mostly the Flat Paper Gasket.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ok I'm just about to do this job, along with some other related items.

I'm replacing the oil cooler lines as they are weeping and the engine mounts too as they are pretty gone.
I've had very few maintainance issues on my 300 SD in 7 years and the car had been very well looked after.

2 questions;

For those experienced in these matters whats the best order task wise to tackle this ?

I have the factory gaskets as pictured oil filter flange and pressure sensor, both factory. Seal or not and with what ?

Topshelf,
First check to see if there are any instructions from the manufacturer of the gaskets you are going to use... they have tested them and want them to work..
otherwise, on plain paper gaskets I use ' Aviation Gasket Cement'....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

No instructions, these are MB REINZ AFM38 one is a greenish cardboard type and the other is a paper style as well not quite as thick and has a greyish metallic finish
Part #616 184 07 80 and 617 184 01 80 respectively.
So you suggest using the gasket cement on these then ?
thanks

I think you'll be fine and dandy without gasket sealant on these so long as the mating surfaces are clean and damage free. FSM doesn't mention using gasket sealant if I remember correctly.

See above for the tip that oil in that area of the engine often comes from the valve cover gasket. These gaskets should be changed more frequently than they are. whunter did a thread somewhere on the life expectancy of a valve cover gasket - think of it more like an injector heat shield - taken it out? Then replace it.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Did this job about a year or two ago and I used Permatex Hylomar. It is not really an adhesive but a gasket dressing and sealant. Apply on both surfaces and let dry and tacky, then bolt together and torque evenly. No leak whatsoever since.
As long as the mating surfaces are clean, smooth and true, then I think you should be fine without or with any other kind of gasket and sealant.
Good luck!

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

Clean on these types of things to me means that acetone or lacquer thinner on a clean paper towel rubbed on the surface in question produces NOTHING... any color showing means more cleaning is needed....
If one has seen micrographs of 'very smooth metal surfaces'... you can see that they are not very smooth.. so to fill those voids I use gasket cement to keep from having to do it over... about the worst punishment I can think of....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

This is all very fascinating.
I have a whetstone and a scraper which I will use then acetone the mating surface and a thin layer of permatex cant hurt by the looks of all the above.
Will try and take pics