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#1
01-25-2010, 09:19 PM
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How hard is to replace flex disk
Dose anyone know how hard to replace the front flex disk? What do i have to do to remove the flex disk?
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN  1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi 
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#2
01-25-2010, 09:37 PM
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You'll need to lower the drive shaft and transmission slightly in order to access the disc properly and tighten securely. The transmission, center carrier and probably rear differential might have to be lowered slightly to do this (or not, depending on your skill - just makes it easier).
Make sure you mark how the drive shaft links to the transmission and differential yokes, so they remain balanced when you reinstall everything back. The flex discs install in a proper way, the yoke clearance will show you how they're oriented. New discs come with the Allen bolts, if you have a good set of Allens, make sure you have leverage (socket Allens come to mind) but if not then the old bolts should be fine.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg
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#3
01-25-2010, 09:53 PM
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Whether they include Allan or Hex bolts depends on the brand. Allan style are superior for multiple reasons. Namely on the front, where you have to go through the balancer disc to reach the bolts, and a hex socket will not fit.
The best brand, Lemfoerder, come with Allan bolts.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#4
01-25-2010, 11:13 PM
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Just pulled mine last night. Beforehand, I did a lot of searching through posts on this subject. I found it easiest to jack up just one side of the car, front and rear, with good jack stands and chock the opposite wheels as you will need the car in neutral with the parking brake off.
I believe your driveshaft will have the same index marks on the two portions to reorient to the same position. They appear as a single > on the front and two< on the rear (Look at the flats on the mating ends.) But marking with something more visible would be easiest. If you're just doing the front one, first you will need to lower the exhaust but it can remain attached at the front end. Then remove the cross brace for the transmission support and the tunnel cover. The center support can remain but loosen it to make it easier. Loosen the clamping nut to enable compression of the drive shaft then the bolts for the disc can be pulled. Note where the bolts pass through the "star" of the balancer. Compress the shaft and swap them out. Also, note that there is a front side of the disc and the ferrules of the disc fit into the transmission flange and driveshaft flange (very important!) Use all consistent hardware. Unless cost is an issue, you may find it worthwhile to go ahead and do the center support and bearing along with the rear flex disc as you will have done 80% of the work already. It's not a difficult job but can be pretty grimey if you've dealt with fluid leaks in the past. If you decide to clean it up a bit beforehand, let it dry overnite to avoid the constant drip! Here is an excellent wikka http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123DriveShaftSupportBearing Also: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=235575&highlight=flex+disc http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/driveline_balancing.pdf
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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#5
01-26-2010, 01:22 AM
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I didn't see any markings to line back up too. I just tightened mine back up. I hope I got it lined up...
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Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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#6
01-26-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
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Joe ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Former Family Members 95 C280 73 280SEL 90 300D 87 300SDL (X2) 86 560SEL 84 300D 80 300SD
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#7
01-26-2010, 10:43 AM
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Answer
Bad Flex Disc
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=868326 The Death of a Flex Disc ... did I kill my 240D? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2194084 What happens when you ignore that "little" driveline vibration! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=205055 Flex Disc Orientation, safety and durability issue. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=235575 If your W123 is shaking down the highway. . . http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=223050 Correct way to install front driveshaft guibo? (FLEX DISC) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=187593
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#8
01-26-2010, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42
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#10
01-26-2010, 07:17 PM
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i agree with SD Blue #4, however i didnt see any marks on the drive shafts, made my own, and i didnt have to drop the exhaust.
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 1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000
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