warning when attaching calipers to car...

[vstech]

the bolts must be cleaned and all traces of oil and such removed with brake spray, and then fresh BLUE LOCTITE must be used on the bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle...

NEVER USE ANTISIEZE/NEVERSIEZE.... NEVER!!!

those bolts must be either replaced with MB new bolts, or all traces of lube/oil/dirt/old loctite MUST BE REMOVED DOWN TO BARE METAL!!!
and fresh blue loctite put on the threads...
ALWAYS!!!

I just pulled the calipers off Jay_Bob's 98E300D, because whenever he backed up, hit the brakes, then pulled forward and hit the brakes, there would be an ominous CLUNK.
he had me listen to it, and it sounded like caliper noise.
pulled the calipers...

the bolts were assembled with antisieze... I did not need a wrench to remove the driver's side...

wow...

[gerryvz]

It's a good idea to just replace the bolts. Good quality hardware can be purchased from *************** or MB for cheap, and the blue Loctite comes pre-installed on the bolts' threads!

Cheers,
Gerry


Please do not list online parts websites on this forum

[Mölyapina]

Originally Posted by gerryvz

It's a good idea to just replace the bolts. Good quality hardware can be purchased from *************** or MB for cheap, and the blue Loctite comes pre-installed on the bolts' threads!

Cheers,
Gerry


Please do not list online parts websites on this forum

Unhinged troll alert...*

*OD joke. I'm not serious.

[charmalu]

OH yeah, Anti-Siez on the Caliper Bolts. HMMM...well I wont mention any names of who the dumb azz was that worked on my Datsun PU last.....

I ...I mean my mechanic replaced the whole suspension front to rear back in 06. ball Joints, bushings, upgraded the solid Rotors to the vended Rotors used from 83 - 86 and larger calipers. replaced the U-joints with Factory original from the dealer. replaced the Diff with a new one, I mean new in the original Nissan wrapper for $250.00. and the same gear ratio. and replaced the rear original axle bearings with 450K miles.

I drove up to Alameda, Ca to help Otto Huber do his eng swap, and when I passed a parking spot, so backed up and ....BANG. thought I backed into a car or hit someone. HMMMM no car or body under the truck.

left for home in the evening and all was well

Next morning I back up in the yard to pukll away from the barn, and....BANG and the truck lurtched to the R/R corner like that wheel locked up.

Removed the R/R wheel and pulled the Brake Drum to check on the shoes etc. took it all apart and replaced it. backed up and BANG.

Well it has to be something with the Diff, so drop the driveline, pull the axles out far enough to pull out the Diff. and replace it with another one. same problem. then thinking (bad idea ) something could be an axle problem, maybe broken or??? so pull out both sides, and they look good.

Jacked up the truck, start the eng and put it in gear. forward or reverse in any gear, nothing, turns ok.

Iam almost ready to call PNP Iam so frustrated, but quickly squelched that notion.

I had the engine and trans out to replace the bearings in the trans last June, and thought maybe there was something I screwed up on that project. But did make a 1700+mile trip to Portland Or. and brought home a Diesel eng, 2 240D trans and FW and driveline. 9 gallons of synthetic oil and a new Turbo charger kit for a 240D that is brand new old stock. so really had a load. plus our luggage and a bunch of wifey stuff.

Later on I jacked up the front end to check things, rotated the R/F wheel forward and turns ok, but turned the other way and BANG. it stops. WTF???

pull the wheel and there is a fresh gouge mark in the steel. what could have snagged that? I was the caliper, but it was sitting where it is suppose to. looked on the back side, and the upper bolt was gone. and the lower one was unscrewed a ways.

When I backed up then the Rotor turning to the rear would let the Caliper move back with it and catch the inside of the wheel.

Luckly Iam a pack Rat and had some extra Caliper bolts and replaced them. Anti-Siez is good for most things, but Caliper Bolts isn`t one of them.
Now the next time I get together with my mechanic........

As far as the MB goes, there is nothing wrong with cleaning off the bolts and reapply new lock Tite. I can`t really see replacing them, the bolts don`t go bad. but to each his own I guess.


Charlie

[DeliveryValve]

Originally Posted by gerryvz

It's a good idea to just replace the bolts. Good quality hardware can be purchased from *************** or MB for cheap, and the blue Loctite comes pre-installed on the bolts' threads!

...

The real reason why they sell the bolts is to prevent human error.

MB and other car companies cannot trust the person servicing the car will properly clean and Loctite each bolt. So they keep it simple stupid by selling new clean bolts with Loctite precoated on them.


So if you can be trusted to clean the bolts properly and Loctite them, you can save a few bucks. If not, then it is wise to spend the few bucks.


.

[sleepstar]

you can buy the fronts new, but i've never seen them for the rear, and was told to just reuse them, with fresh loctite

[gerryvz]

Originally Posted by sleepstar

you can buy the fronts new, but i've never seen them for the rear, and was told to just reuse them, with fresh loctite

Yes I only have experience directly buying & replacing the front bolts, for the 126. Why wouldn't the rears be available as well?

For the 560SEC, for example, the part number for the rear caliper bolt is 123 423 00 71. Cost via mail order vendor the the MB part is $4.32 each.

For the 500E, for example, the part number for the rear caliper bolt is 000 423 17 71. Cost via mail order vendor for the MB part is $3.12 each.

The EPC seems to show that the rear caliper bolts are available for most if not all models. Certainly, reusing the old ones is an option, but they are quite cheap to replace with new. I just recently did this when I replaced the front rotors & pads on my 560SEC.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Mölyapina]

OK -- I have a slightly related question. When I put new brake pads in our Sienna, I forgot to put the little packet of lube that came with the pads on the pad sliders... is that a bad thing? Should I take the calipers off again and lube the pads?

[gerryvz]

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

OK -- I have a slightly related question. When I put new brake pads in our Sienna, I forgot to put the little packet of lube that came with the pads on the pad sliders... is that a bad thing? Should I take the calipers off again and lube the pads?

Best practice is to remove the pads, clean out their sliders with a wire brush (don't breathe brake dust) and apply thin coat of paste to the sides & back of the metal pad backing plates. Otherwise you may well get brakes that squeal like an unhinged troll.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Mölyapina]

Originally Posted by gerryvz

Best practice is to remove the pads, clean out their sliders with a wire brush (don't breathe brake dust) and apply thin coat of paste to the sides & back of the metal pad backing plates. Otherwise you may well get brakes that squeal like an unhinged troll.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Ah, that's good -- I won't bother taking it apart unless they squeal, then (6000+ miles on it already). Unhinged trolls don't squeal, they growl. Like the Corolla when I floor it in low second. gROWr!

John, sorry for the threadjack. I never thought I would sink this low.

[vstech]

Originally Posted by gerryvz

Best practice is to remove the pads, clean out their sliders with a wire brush (don't breathe brake dust) and apply thin coat of paste to the sides & back of the metal pad backing plates. Otherwise you may well get brakes that squeal like an unhinged troll.

Cheers,
Gerry

actually... this is not so.

cleaning and greasing the slides on the calipers and the edges on the pads is to prevent sticking pads... not to stop squealing.
squealing is caused by the pads vibrating on the rotor/caliper piston... that's what the rubber/plastic/epoxy pad or backing on the pads is for. to seal the pad to the caliper piston.
cleaning the edges where the pads touch the frame of the caliper is very wise to prevent stuck pads/ or uneven braking.

[JB3]

I haven't used locktite on my caliper bolts in years, but then again rust can accomplish the same thing.

The bolts are always nearly impossible to remove later anyway, so I never bothered. Sounds like a good idea though. I may go through and coat them after wire wheeling off the rust next servicing

[vstech]

Originally Posted by JB3

I haven't used locktite on my caliper bolts in years, but then again rust can accomplish the same thing.

The bolts are always nearly impossible to remove later anyway, so I never bothered. Sounds like a good idea though. I may go through and coat them after wire wheeling off the rust next servicing

blue loctite, not only keeps a bolt from vibrating loose, it also seals out rust, making it easier to remove in rust prevalent areas...

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by vstech

actually... this is not so.

cleaning and greasing the slides on the calipers and the edges on the pads is to prevent sticking pads... not to stop squealing.

That's right. I have seen one pad completely worn down by a sticking floating caliper. And it didn't make a sound until metal hit metal.

[jay_bob]

Also if your caliper is not in its proper orientation (like when the bolts are loose) it also causes uneven pad wear. It trashed the pads on that side and necessitated an unplanned brake job.