You can measure a gap to determine if the engine mounts are still good -



Sixto
87 300D

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Looks easy enough, thanks! Last time I had the mounts replaced there was actually fluid coming out of one of the old ones, so it wasn't a tough judgment call.
I'll start with the trans mount, I have a new one ready to go. I'd like to do the diff mounts if I can get my hand on the tool, too. There's no question they need to go, one of them is sort of half-collapsed.
aaa ... the tires are brand new, at least on the front. I suppose it could be the ball joints or lower control arm bushings, but all look pretty good. It's kind of reaching a point where I'm just replacing things at random and hoping the problem goes away. The tires did make a big difference cruising on the highway, but not completely.
And it could still be steering. And I'm not convinced the lug nuts didn't get damaged by the tire shop I used to go to.
So basically it just comes down to what order to start replacing things, and I'd like to rule out (or in) whatever I can before doing so. I'll pick up a 13mm bolt and hopefully I can rule out motor mounts.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Mine has been shacking too and I have two new transmission mounts sitting in my garage waiting for installation. How hard of a job is it? Would I have to lower the transmission in any way or form?

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."

I think the hardest part is getting to the bolt on top, though it doesn't look impossible. You don't have to lower the transmission, just support it with a scissor or floor jack while you swap out the mounts. Haven't done one yet but it doesn't look too hellish ...

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

It does when you don't have a lift....

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."

I don't think it will be nearly as bad as doing the driveshaft without a lift. I pulled out some pretty extreme contortionist moves and acquired some neat bruises to get that done.
I probably wouldn't jack up the car to do the motor mounts ... easier to reach the top bolts with it on the ground. Trans, I'll have to take another look ... a bit snug back there but I fit OK to do the steering damper with wheels on the ground.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

That's only if you have the type of mount which has the metal 'sheath' that extends down to the top line which the arrow in your picture lines up with. there were other kinds of mounts which only had a metal cap on top, and had rubber all the way around (bell-shaped) with no aluminum sheath. where do you measure for those type of mounts, the bottom of the rubber?

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If I understand correctly the mounts you are talking about, they are shaped the same way as the OE ones ... so you would measure from the part of the rubber that corresponds with the bottom of the metal ... the bottom of the "bell." I could be wrong though, as I'm not really sure I know what mounts you're talking about. Fortunately mine are OE so I used the graphic sixto provided.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

the mounts you have which are OE, are the updated style mounts with the aluminum sheath. there are still rubber non-sheathed OE mounts out there with MB part numbers stamped on them. they are circulating through the parts stores and online, and were made by mercedes

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Ah, OK. Don't they have a similar shape to the metal-sheathed ones, though?

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)