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#1
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How long do OE motor mounts usually last?
On a 603. Just curious. After replacing the front tires on my 87 300D, my neverending highway vibration reduced quite a bit (and the noise is gone!), but I'm definitely still getting a shake in the steering wheel and slight vibration in the floorboard, intermittently between 55-70. It seems to be most noticeable on acceleration, and is (in my nonscientific estimation) more often to occur while going up a very slight incline.
I noticed some very tiny cracks in the motor mounts and I'm wondering if it could be them starting to go? They were replaced 50,000 miles ago (five years). The transmission mount, as far as I know, has never been replaced, so I'm going to do that. Would it be wise to do the motor mounts while I'm at it, or a waste? For whatever it's worth, idle and low speeds are super smooth. As a side question ... the rear linkage on this car is a disaster, and the diff bushings (in the back, that hold it on the subframe) are shot. I plan to have my indy do that job when I get back from London in the fall (technically I can do it, but physically I don't think I can by myself). Can those problems in the rear manifest in vibrations in the front? Poor Bodhi, this has not been his year. ![]() ![]()
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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I can't see motor mounts causing a vibration in the wheel that's not felt at idle.
how smooth is your acceleration? it could be the trans mount allowing the motor to tilt down on a hilly climb though. start there and see. if your rear bushings are SHOT then all manner of issues could be felt...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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Go for the transmission mount...that is an easy job. The mounts are not likely bad after just 5 years and they collapse when bad. The rear bushings (multi-link arms) are significant in tracking at high speeds. As for subframe mounts, I have not done mine yet but at 185k or so, they SEEM to be okay.
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#4
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It's a tire or suspension issue.
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#5
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Engine mounts on the 60x engines are usually good for about ten years, give or take.
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#6
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You can measure a gap to determine if the engine mounts are still good -
![]() Sixto 87 300D Last edited by whunter; 08-30-2010 at 04:48 PM. Reason: attached picture |
#7
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Quote:
![]() I'll start with the trans mount, I have a new one ready to go. I'd like to do the diff mounts if I can get my hand on the tool, too. There's no question they need to go, one of them is sort of half-collapsed. aaa ... the tires are brand new, at least on the front. I suppose it could be the ball joints or lower control arm bushings, but all look pretty good. It's kind of reaching a point where I'm just replacing things at random and hoping the problem goes away. The tires did make a big difference cruising on the highway, but not completely. And it could still be steering. And I'm not convinced the lug nuts didn't get damaged by the tire shop I used to go to. So basically it just comes down to what order to start replacing things, and I'd like to rule out (or in) whatever I can before doing so. I'll pick up a 13mm bolt and hopefully I can rule out motor mounts. ![]()
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#8
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Mine has been shacking too and I have two new transmission mounts sitting in my garage waiting for installation. How hard of a job is it? Would I have to lower the transmission in any way or form?
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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out 1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out) 1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481) ![]() "The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care." |
#9
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Quote:
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#10
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Quote:
It does when you don't have a lift....
__________________
1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out 1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out) 1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481) ![]() "The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care." |
#11
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That's only if you have the type of mount which has the metal 'sheath' that extends down to the top line which the arrow in your picture lines up with. there were other kinds of mounts which only had a metal cap on top, and had rubber all the way around (bell-shaped) with no aluminum sheath. where do you measure for those type of mounts, the bottom of the rubber?
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i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#12
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Quote:
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#13
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Quote:
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#14
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Ah, OK. Don't they have a similar shape to the metal-sheathed ones, though?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#15
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You have to get to the big 19mm somehow. My first impulse would be to tilt the engine/trans back and use a 19mm box end on it.
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