For someone else who is comtemplating the same Job:

Even though the Ball Joint Boots are ripped it is possible for the Ball Joints to be OK.

There should be a way to test them in our DIY slection:
Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

When the Lower Control Arm bushing went bad on my own Car I orded a compete front suspension kit because I needed to get my Car running as soon as possible and did not want to wait on parts if I found something else wrong.

I did not check any of the Joints because I had the whole kit coming. But, what I found is that one of the Ball Joints was bad on one of the Upper Contol Arms was no good.
Since I already had the 2 new upper Control Arms I replaced both.

What also found is my Lower Ball Joints were OK but I had damaged the Boots separating the Knuckle from the Lower Control Arm.
Since they were still good reused the Lower Ball Joints planning at to change the Boots Later. I did get around to changing the Boot on one side; but still have not done the other.

In the Factory Service Manual and maybe in our DIY Section they have how to check the joints on the Car.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It's hard to drive around with torn boots and not contaminate the joint. The FSM recommends that boots never be replaced independently unless they were torn during current maintenance.

A new OEM ball joint can be had for under $25. What does a new boot kit cost?

Update and details on the tryptic job. The upper control arm ball joints were bad on both sides. they made noise with tapping on the arms with the front end up off the ground. the lower ball joint on the right side was also sloppy.
driver side lower was good, but the boot was squashed and ripped all around the equator. rusty grease was seen in the drivers side lower...

When I drove the car as of yesterday, I always heard clunking sounds on the right side. and when brakes were applied there was a clatter on the right side, if I broke hard...

Pads were way worn. Just in time on the brake job!

Took everything off the car this afternoon. Had trouble with the nut on the upper control arm ball joint on the drivers side. It had to be cut and popped off the threads since it was stripped. It just kept turning while I tried to remove it. The ball joint was not moving as some may think. I was aware of the potential spinning, but was touching the bottom end of the "bolt" while turning the nut with a 17mm open end wrench. The nut was turning, but the bolt was NOT moving....

Seems like the worst part of the replacement job is going to be fitting the long bolt through the upper end of the upper control arm. Not much room under the wiper fluid tank or the drivers side area either... Any tricks for aligning that bolt through the bushings?

Also, the socket cap screws that hold the hub and rotor together seem to be tough to loosen. I might bring them to the local shop and have them open them up as well as press out the lower ball joints.

Should get parts tomorrow or Tuesday, so my commuter car will rest a few days. It has 342,000 miles on it. Exhaust system is next. Saw pin holes and soot on the pipes when the car was on a lift last week. Had a warranty issue with an altenator. The local shop was working on it and I was snooping around and saw the thick soot or carbon.

Will need to replace from manifold back to the muffler... Anything to know about exhaust replacement?

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1985 300SD

Other Thoughts:
The last time I looked the lower Ball Joint boots were in the $5-$6 each range.

But, what is missing in the equation when comparing changing the Boots to changing the complete Ball Joint is the effort it takes sometimes to get an Old Ball Joint out to replace it or the added expense to have some one else do it.
I believe can change the Boots with out removing the Wheel Hub and Rotor.

Changing the Boots is something that is way easier to do than going through the effort or expensive to pay someone to remove an otherwise good Ball Joint.

Not everyone has a Vice that is mounted on a Sturdy enough Work Bench that they can put the Steering Knunckel into so they can beat out the the Old Ball Joint. Or maybe not even a heavy enough Hammer.

Also by retaining the same Ball Joints there is a good chance you will not need to have the Front End aligned.

You, are more likely to need an alignment if you do not use OM Ball Joints; assuming the Old Joints are originals.

Whoever is doing the job has to decide what options are best for them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is true but if you do the proper checks to see if the Ball Joint is OK and you clean it up and regrease; and install a new Boot you are going to get several years of use out of that joint.

If after those several years the Joints have gone bad you can install New Ball Joints.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

As stated earlier in this post, the passenger side needed to be replaced. The drivers side boot was split and when I removed the knuckle, the ball joint was full of grease and brown rusty grease.... Since I was doing all that other work, uppers and brakes...................... why not change both lowers. If i need an alignment, might as well change both. Never heard of getting half your car aligned!

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1985 300SD