I'd go with the 98-99 e300, myself. Older, slightly less electronic, better looking in my personal opinion, and a more tried-and-true engine design with less complications. Also, older = more forum experience, more indy mechanic experience, and more aftermarket parts solutions, leading to more accessible repairs and less expensive parts. Win all the way around as long as you don't get one with the spring perch issue.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

If I were looking at a newer benz I like the non turbo ...I think it was about 95? ...simpler to work on I expect and pretty good fuel economy.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

no motor is as efficient as one that is turbo charged.

Motor is an air pump, air going out helps air come in. Nothing complex about a turbo.

96-97 E300 was non turbo. No idea why. We purchased the 98-99 E300 with the Turbo.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

personally im not too happy with my w210..i went from a volvo 850 to the 99 e300td. it gets great milage and everything..31 city..37 hwy ..and has gobs of power but its not luxo barge at all. i drive all over the place and i get really sore when going on long trips. the interior is very cheap and plasticy, the seats really are hard and uncomfortable. why mercedes put some monster truck stump pulling rear end gears and a tranny that doesnt lock up till 3k rpm is beyone me. i'm wishing i wouldve got a bmw 5 or 7 series.

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1993 e300
1995 e320
1994 e320
2006 s500 4matic
2004 Jeep wj overland
2001 Ducati 748
2004 Honda shadow aero

My w210 is very comfortable, compare to 5 or 7 series, I've had 740il n e39 525i ,they little close to Mercedes but Mercedes is better.I'm sure Mercedes quality is not good anymore , started 1997 they start saving money so they don't use quality parts anymore.

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1999 W210 E300 Turbodiesel

The 300 ETD is a driver's car - not so much meant to be an all day cruiser. Ask me how I know.....

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

First of all, 2005, 2006 are CDIs, not Bluetecs. Straight 6's for 05,06. V6's for 07,08 Bluetec.

I've owned my CDI for 3 months now (today, as a matter of fact) and have put 10,500 miles on it. I have to say I love it. It's quiet, a ton of power, both off the line and highway passing. I'm running homemade B100 without issue. The brakes have been fine for me, they do seem a little grabby. I've heard they are not suited to the DIYer, but I'll certainly give it a shot when it's brake time.

I'm not sure how a turbo 210 compares with my NA 210 on power (obviously more, but I've never driven a turbo 210). The 210 suffers from rust, spring perches, and contactor plate in the transmission. The contactor plate is easy enough to change, but the car is in limp mode until reset by dealer, and plate, filter and fluid cost about $300.

The difference in power has me never wanting to drive my 97, it may be time to sell it.

I will say AllData is wonderful on both the 210 and 211, much easier to navigate than the Star CD that I have for the 97.

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Mark in MA
05 MB E320CDI 402k Granite Grey Metallic
05 MB E320CDI 267k Black
05 MB E320CDI 232k White
05 MB E320CDI 209k Tectite Grey
99 Dodge 2500 Cummins 5sp 148k
62 Jeep CJ-6 120k

I got 4700 out of the insurance company which includes $300ish in tax/title/license.. nada classic guides "low retail" is what the guy used as a reference, said he couldn't go higher.

If I 'buy' the car from them, it effectively costs me $700. And I get a check for $4000ish.

Do you guys think its worth $700 and the labor to part it?

It has a very recent red top optima mercedes-polarity battery.
Two recent rear brake calipers.
Excellent condition wheels and michelins with 20k on them. (out of 80?)
Redone interior with good condition material(not sure if its leather or vinyl) on all seats (two tone tan and black) and matching on headliner and doors.
New springs under drivers seat.

New climate control unit.

Working A/C, heat, transmission, sunroof.

285k on the clock.

recent rear window motors, new passenger front motor.




They're letting me strip out the stereo parts, all speakers, amps and subwoofer even if I don't keep the car.

What do ya'll think?

Its definitely more than $700 in parts, but is it worth the headache and labor? I'm on 10 acres but I haven't built my shop yet and I'd have to put it under a tarp for a while.

I'm thinking about getting a 123 wagon, so the parts wouldn't be wasted.

I've got a 300SDL with a failing/slipping transmission, I don't know if its a usable swap. (1983 300D vs 86 300SDL) in regards to the gear ratios.


Thanks for any advice.

-L

I would too, versus ANY of the older stuff - unless I was INTO the older stuff.

The overiding consideration is what the OP wants, mated to what the OP wants to or can spend on a car. I'm old-fashioned, but I wouldn't buy anything I couldn't pay cash for - but I would not necessarily jump at the first car unless it fit the bill to a "T." Chances are the opposing insurance company will pay for a rental car for the OP for the next few weeks while he is making up his mind.

The '98-'99 ETD would be an outrageously improved upgrade from a W123-4 in numerous ways. Once you've driven one and get the thrill of it's performance AND economy, you'll likely never go back to the snails pace of any diesel pre-'98.

If he can swing it financially, the CDI would be the way to go I certainly would. Because over time, the CDIs and Bluetec are the better plays looong term going forward, versus the ETDs of '98-'99. Just my expert opinion there.....

Rust is not an issue (anytime soon) in Austin, Texas, where the OP is located.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

I understand what you're saying. I really do. But I don't think I'll *ever* regard a Bluetec as a good long-term move. Anything that will electronically refuse to let me start it unless I refill their silly little emissions fluid tank... just doesn't sound "reliable" to me. I want a car that will start when I have to flee my home for whatever the next natural disaster is (I'm dramatizing here because I believe in being *READY* for the worst case even though I don't live in constant fear of it) even if I haven't changed its little urea fluid tank on time.

That's why the 3 I own are all 80's models. They may be older and slower, but I know that as long as there's current available from the battery and fuel/fluids in the thing, they're PROBABLY going to start every time I turn the key, or else be fixable without a computer problem when they do go down. It's all preferences. So I guess I'm just saying two things, 1) that I'm among those who are "into" the older stuff for those reasons, and 2) Even if CDI is the next best long-term gamble, I'm not ready to give Bluetec *with* urea injection that much credit yet. I understand from a previous thread debate that not ALL Blue-tec labeled Benzes actually use urea systems, so in my post, the comments about Bluetec assume that urea IS used.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

The guy wants to move *FORWARD* in diesel models to a "'98-'99 ETD OR an '05-'06 CDI" - NOT backwards.

I don't know of any Bluetec that requires urea or whatever you're talking about?

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

I know. That's why it was my original suggestion. I wasn't proposing that the OP should get another 80s model. I never suggested it.

From 2008: http://green.autoblog.com/2008/10/20/mercedes-new-bluetec-diesels-will-not-start-if-urea-runs-out/

Relevant quote from: http://www.dieselnet.com/news/2006/09daimler.php
By 2009, several of them had it: http://www.roadandtrack.com/future-cars/bluetec-diesels-the-2009-mercedes-benz-ml-320-gl-320-and-r-320



I admit that I was wrong. I thought anything that said Bluetec on the trunk had urea injection. It turns out the 2006-07ish Bluetecs and maybe some 08s ran without urea injection by just having special exhaust systems. But most of the really ultra-new Bluetecs definitely seem to require it.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

I don't think of my 87 300D as going at a snails pace.

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Adjuster offered me $2k for my car today...life just isn't ever easy is it?

I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

When i was T-Boned in my 1985 300D, i was not really injured, and i received about 7k for pain and suffering plus the car. They did not total it, so i was also able to keep it. i parted it out and had the cash to buy the 240D and another 300D.

I received nearly 5k for my 300D with 180k miles on it. It was in nice shape when it was take off the road. i would fight for more cash, especially on the pain and suffering side, since you were actually hurt (i was just sad).

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned