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  #1  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:18 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi.
Posts: 186
Differential question

I'm looking at some used differentials. Can any 300D from 1980-1985 be used on my car, or are there specific models that I'll want to avoid?

I just had the center support bearing replaced, and now I have a hum that only comes between 60-65 mph, then goes away. It's new.

There is another rotating vibration that is very low, I can feel it in the seat, that just gets faster with vehicle speed. It was present before the carrier bearing (which I hoped would fix it) but has gotten worse.

My CV boots are cracked, but don't appear to be leaking. They're on the list of things to fix soon.

Replacing the pinion bearing and seal, is this something that I can do on my own with jack stands in my garage or something that I'm better off paying a pro to do? I've done the engine mounts, valve adjustments, etc., so I'm not stranger to a wrench. But there are times when it really helps to have air tools and a lift.

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1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver
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  #2  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 570
Pinions bearings on the E300TurboD is a proffesional job. Its not something you can do at home I was told.
The side seals are easy enough tho
Olivier
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #3  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
If you're looking at differentials for a W123 300D then you need to get the correct ratio - the OM617a (turbo) engine has a different diff than the OM617 (non turbo)

See http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=263096

For identification info

If you want to do the side seals on the diff - that is a DIY job. The pinion seal however is more complicated as you need to measure the torque of the input drive before and after... the problem is that the torque is a low value so you need an uncommon type of torque wrench.

I've removed the whole rear end on my W123. I'm a one man band - I don't have lifts / pits - and didn't use air tools for dismantling.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=276507

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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