I've had the tensioner out of my car a couple of times. After filling it with oil outside the motor I simply screwed it into the block slowly. Did not have any issues.

-Jason

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

ditto.

I don't even prime it anymore unless the engine has been apart.

there's rally nothing special about the installation.

its a hydraulic ram that pushes on a fulcrum... it either provides pressure, or does not.

the one thing I was concerned about was the side to side movement of the rail that it pushes on. If it is worn enough to mis-align with the tensioner pin, the chain could be hanging off of it.

If you dont see anything wrong by looking down into the cavity with the tensioner in, you're probably OK.

So you don't even take the plunger out and re-install it seperately when putting the tensioner back in?

All of my chain guides are brand new and none of them (the two that I can see) show any signs of misalignment or any other issue.

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

I have never opened it.

Attached Files

05-310 tensioner.pdf (222.7 KB, 203 views)

No.

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1998 E300 +310,000K
1996 E300 +460,000K

Looking at the schematic of the tensioner it looks like there is no reason to remove the sealing plug to install the tensioner.

I don't see how it would make any difference.

And the directions don't mention it either.

Is there any way to tell if my tensioner is applying too much tension to the chain?

__________________
1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?