help! Another stuck ignition key thread - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JB3 · #1 01-26-2011, 07:36 PM

Alright, lots of snow, parking ban, blocking 3 other cars in a narrow driveway, ect. We can push it, but without being able to turn the wheel, it won't push straight unless I have to jack up the front end and so on and so forth. Ignition key is stuck in the 84 300D, tried for 45 minutes to get it to even turn, I have read some great threads on how to replace this, but I have a real need to immediately move the car, what can I cut/break/tear to disable the steering wheel lock so I can hotwire the car and get it moved?

Any ideas would be much appreciated!

jt20 · #2 01-26-2011, 07:43 PM

Gunna have to access the pin in the steering column. You'll see it once you drop the panel under the dash / steering wheel. Drill it out, its pretty hard metal.

That will allow you to pull the entire ignition mechanism. Probably have to drop the column to get more clearance, maybe not.

Then, use a grinder on the black housing that covers the tumbler. Cut the circumference at the very tip towards the key end.

Oh, and protect your windshield when grinding in the car.... I still see ghosts on the left when I drive.

charmalu · #3 01-26-2011, 08:00 PM

This picture will show the pin to drill out/off. It`s on the left picture at the lower side of the shaft.

http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm

Charlie

t walgamuth · #4 01-26-2011, 08:05 PM

What about using the big paper clip in the #2 ignition slot? Will that work for him?

jt20 · #5 01-26-2011, 08:08 PM

The key needs to turn to that position, Tom.

I think he mentioned his key would not move.

It IS worth trying harder and jiggling the wheel forcefully and trying to turn the key before you go grinding silly.

Also, try the key after you get the ignition out of the column... it may work then. This would allow you to do as twalgamuth suggested.

connerm · #6 01-26-2011, 08:24 PM

I recall reading here that a guy was able to move the key or remove it by vibrating it with a dual action sander while pulling it or turning the key steadily.

DeliveryValve · #7 01-26-2011, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by connerm

I recall reading here that a guy was able to move the key or remove it by vibrating it with a dual action sander while pulling it or turning the key steadily.

I heard that trick also worked.

Here are some other tricks...

-You didn't mention this, but try squirting ALOT of penetrating oil in the tumbler while working it with the key. Hopefully it might dislodge some debris that may be stuck in there.

-Try turning the wheel while turning or jiggling the key

-You might want to release the pressure on the lock by raising the front wheels off the ground and continue turning the wheel and working the key.

-If by chance you get it freed, get a new lock right away and don't trust it again!

Good luck!

Diesel911 · #8 01-27-2011, 12:41 AM

If none of the above stuff works you could get on the Internet and join one of the Auto clubs so that you could get a free tow.

If the Road Surface under the Car is smooth enough you could purchase some of those little 4 wheeled dollys that go under each wheel.
Jack the car up and lower the Car on them and it will roll on the tiny wheels of the dolly. Harbor Freight is one place that sells them.

JB3 · #9 01-29-2011, 01:14 PM

ok thanks for all the ideas guys!

so, I pulled out the panel, dropped the column, squirted about 5 gallons of lubricant, vibrated the ignition with one of those neck massage deals, pulled the instrument cluster and had someone tap on the housing as I jiggled the key, no dice so far. The key will not turn at all

On drilling the pin, I can see no way to do this without damaging the dash, even with the steering wheel dropped a bit. Its still behind the dash at an angle that will just not work for drilling, so I figure I have to pull out the dash to preserve it from getting damage. How did others do this, did they pull the dash?

I think I might try drilling the ignition first, I have a complete spare, just need to order the right tumbler. The spare is a 240, would it be a problem in the 300D? they look identical, but could the plugs be different?

As far as moving the car, it was blocking nose first an extremely narrow sloped away from the road driveway between two buildings covered in ice and snow. We moved it by jacking up the front, and putting a couple saucer sleds under the front tires, then I chained it to a jeep in the rear, and we chained it to the car in front of it, a nissan pickup 4x4, then slowly pulled the car up the driveway with the jeep, and kept it straight by keeping tension on the front chain with the pickup. This scheme probably would not have worked under normal circumstances, but there was enough snow packed on either side of the cars, that it served to keep the benz from riding up into either house, kind of like a luge. Frigging took forever, and was completely ridiculous, but it worked. Also cost me a couple cases of beer.

Now I have some time since no one is being blocked, I tell you one thing, I will NEVER park a car again with the tires cranked over, certainly not one of these cars in my own narrow driveway.

Yak · #10 01-29-2011, 03:49 PM

If you're willing to drill AND have a little time AND have the complete spare as a template, you could try drilling a new "paperclip hole" first, then removing the tumbler normally, then follow a normal procedure to disassemble the housing/steering lock.

Rotating the key creates a channel to insert the paperclip. The tolerances of using a drill would be pretty tight, but possible to create this channel. There's a thread with a link to the locksmith tool that is a jig for doing just this.

charmalu · #11 01-29-2011, 08:19 PM

The 80 240D and 84 300D have a different electrical plug on the rear. The ignition switch is also different.

The 80 has 8 pins, and the pins are exposed, and is a plastic pin with one flat side. maybe 1/4 in wide.

The 84 has 7 pins, and they are recessed with a hooded cover the plug fits into. the center pin is a female slot .
the steering lock assembly is the same on both cars.

I have both that I removed from my 80 240 and 85 300D.

the 80 is $83 and the 84 $40.

funola · #12 01-29-2011, 11:42 PM

I had the exact same problem with my 240D. Seems to be a common problem caused by stuck wafers in the tumbler due to previous owners spraying in "lube" which attracts dirt and, over time, gunk up the wafers. I almost took the drill to it but kept trying the key and it finally turned after 45 minutes. The motion you need is: turn the key back and forth real fast. Also turn the steering wheel back and forth if the steering lock is engaged. Good luck!

86-300sdl · #13 02-01-2011, 01:21 AM

Raise the front end so there is no tension on the steering mechanism. Have some one grab a front wheel and twist / jiggle the tire i.e. toe in-toe out direction while you simultaneously jiggle the steering wheel back and forth and ---are you ready---while you also quickly turn the ignition key back and forth. Took me about fifteen minutes but finally the key moved over to position #2. Then you can use simply use the paper clip trick in the tiny hole to release the tumbler. And of course have a new one ready to install

Mine bound up after parking in the garage with the wheels angled just so that they put tension on the whole mechanism all the way up to the ignition key tumbler. Hard to believe. I tried to get the tumbler out with paper clips etc. Got ready to drill out everything. Even had the new parts over-nighted to me.

Hope it works...beats the drilling fix by miles....

pgringo · #14 02-01-2011, 01:39 AM

hold the key to a palm sander as you try to turn the key. that's probably much more violent vibrating than a neck massager. it worked for me.

JB3 · #15 02-17-2011, 06:21 PM

to follow up on this. I dropped the column just enough to access the pin, and drilled it out. To do this, I unbolted the two nuts under the instrument cluster, and the other smaller two on the bracket down by the pedals for the column.

Then I loosened the clamp holding the outer part of the column to the inner part, and using a pry bar, pulled the column out just a bit where it cleared the studs on the lower bracket that prevented it from coming down that mcuh.

With that done, I was able to pull the dash out a little and pull the steering wheel/ignition down so it was behind the dash, about 2 inches lower. Doing this exposed the locking pin at a pretty nice drilling angle.

I managed to completely destroy the electrical connection on the back of the ignition/lock trying to unplug it, it would not come off. I have to replace that as well, but I can turn the steering wheel.

Ordering a bunch of parts, I hope I can get the plastic parts of the ignition plug.