Another note, is what ever route you choose, you just make sure you don't use detergent oil on the initial break in.

Detergents in new oil will attack any of the zinc, phosphorous, acids and other elements in the new oil for a short period of time until the detergents runs out. Mainly since the additives are not protecting the components at this period, it is the thickness of the oil itself that is. This is an acceptable loss of protection in the grand scheme of an oil change interval on an older engine because the anti-wear additive bonding cycle will then continue longer with rest of the period after the detergents run out.

But for a new unbroken engine, that short period is important because every second the engine runs, it needs maximum protection to help critical components wear in correctly. And those additives are what helps it by bonding to those critical components right away.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Any semi truck oil still has it--Regular gas automotive oils have had it taken out since the early ninties.

Aren't most all oils sold over the counter detergent oils? For instance, I found that Guardol QLT 15W-40 is available in my area; it's a CI-4 rated oil, which should have high zinc and phosphorous in it, right? But, it mentions detergency in its description, so I'm a little leery of it.

It's looking more and more like I should go with Gibbs for both the break-in period (couple hundred miles) and the first oil change (2500 miles).

Thank you for your replies.

Kurt

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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).

Just go to a dollar store and get the golden state stuff-it should do