I'm in the process of prepping all of the rear suspension pieces to be sent out for powder coating. These are the donor organs from Betty. All of her parts are being 100% refurbished before placing them in Puff-TMD.

I started out with the intentions to use all of WhiskeyDan's idea for a homemade tool to remove the bushings from the trailing arms.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266324

I decided to go to Lowe's for all the parts, as they have threaded rod and associated hardware and they were the source for his 1-1/2" galv coupling. Unfortunately, my Lowes had nothing larger than 1-1/4". SOL.

I then decided that instead of cutting the lip off and pulling the bushing into a cup of some sort, why don't I just push both bushings out from the inside of the arm?

So, I grabbed the following parts:

- 5/8"x24" threaded rod
- 3x 5/8" nuts
- 2x hardened 5/8" washers (same drawer @ Lowes)
- 1/2"x3" nipple

1. Insert the threaded rod into the bushings from the outside, before inserting into the second bushing, spin/thread the following parts in this order: Nipple, washer, nut, nut, nut, washer
2. Move all parts into the middle of the rod, so you can manipulate everything into the right place. And then set according to pictures
3. Working the inner-most of the double nuts and the single nut on the opposite end, rotate nuts outward with 24mm open-end wrenches or crescent wrenches. One bushing should start to move, I never got both to go at the same time.
4. When one bushing is out, move parts back to middle of rod and flip it over. Repeat pushing nuts outward on threaded rod.

I haven't run through re-installation yet, as I haven't sent them off for powder coating yet. The three large pieces, rear sway and brake shields are all being zinc-primered and black powder coated. Everything else in the rear end will pretty much be new or refurbished. The hyd shocks and spheres were near-new on Betty, the SLS valve has been rebuilt using Andrew's kit, all new brake pads, rotors, hoses, shoes and p-brake cables. All new bushings, subframe mounts and diff mount.

I don't want to have to pull this back end apart for another 200k miles...

Attached Thumbnails

   

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

Looks nice - I did similar to my W123 trailing arms - when you put the new bushings in make sure you apply enough force to put them in (I used KY jelly to help) but not so much that you distort the bushing. The inner metal insert needs to survive the experience!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Doesn't KY have water as an ingredient? I would think you'd want to use a lubricant that would dispel water and not deteriorate the runner.

Would a silicone spray be OK?

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

The theory is that whilst it is water based it doesn't actually eat into rubber. Most silicone products are oil based and therefore could potentially eat into the rubber...

...some people are quite passionate about the use of silicone so take cover!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm more worried about the water causing corrosion of the trailing arm. Granted oxygen would be needed to form rust and the bushing is such a tight fit that I doubt any air would ever get in there.

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

Dawn dish soap or windex work too.

When I was trying to get my Sub Frame bushings in, I used KY Jelly. I could get the bushing in except for the last 1/4in. no matter how much I cranked down on the installer.

I managed to get it back out, cleaned up the mess, and then used Syl-Glide. they went right in. then used it for the trailing arm bushing too.



Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

PS for those of you with camber issues, there is an adjustment kit for the w123.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Safe for meat contact, bushings maybe not so much.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

My (25 year old, from the factory) front lower control arms rusted from the inside out under the bushings on my 85. Significantly enough that I needed to replace the LCA's.

Water and oxygen will find a way.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

You don't want those bushings to rotate or slide in the trail arm bore. I have always used KY as it is a water based lube that will dry out. I believe a little corrosion is desirable as it helps to bind the rubber to the bore. Silicon lubes remain and allow the bushings to move and rotate. I have seen several instances where the bushing has slid so far that the arm is metal to metal on the sub-frame and that makes for a noisy ride!

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Beagle

You found one? Well done - where's the link?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

MB keeps the kit as an option. I fitted it a couple of years ago when I replaced my bushings. Same system as the front lower C/arm bushings.

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Beagle

Really - great stuff - do you happen to have the part number?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Sorry, no. I tossed out the invoice long ago. I only found out about it when I ordered the standard bushings. I do remember that they were a lot more expensive. I am not certain but I think they are fitted standard on the 124.It does not adjust camber - only tow.

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Beagle