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#1
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1984 300CD steeringweel pump leaking
Hi there!
My pump started to leak last week. I'm adding fluid to it and searching all over the net for 6 days now for schematics and a follow up list on how to change the seals on my pump. I would say that the back of the pump is where the leak is coming from, but running my fingers under it I noticed some fluid on the front also so I'm looking to change all the seals. I saw some advertising about a complete set of seals but I need some picture (exploded drawing) of the pump and mountings and some explanation on how to change the seals itself. If somebody can help me up with tutorials or tell me where to find it, it will be really appreciated. Thanks in advance!! |
#2
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Hope the attachments help.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#3
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The attachment doesn't appear to address the rear seal. Army's post on his troubles with the front seal is a good reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=278649&highlight=clamp
Getting the correct seal(s) for the correct model of pump is important. You'll need to ID you pump model. I'd call Phil and have him get you the parts for your specific pump. Finding and accessing the 4 bolts that hold and adjust the pump may be easier by looking at the R-4 compressor thread I've posted. It shows the bolts and the pump removed. |
#4
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#5
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If it has not been said already some models of pumps have different seals and from what I have reand people end up with the wrong one.
Seals often have the number on them if the number survived the pulling of the Seal. I have also read that the Generic Power Steering Pullers do not fit.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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Thanks guys for the pictures and everything else.
I'm sending a picture of the plate with the part number taken from the pump itself, I would just like to know if I can order seals based in these numbers. Thanks. |
#7
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The part number for item #32 in my previous post: 018 997 6047.
Fits that P/S pump.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#8
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When working on my pump (see Yak's post #3 for the link - thanks Yak!) I found the hardest thing to be removing the pulley. Some kipper had painted mine and it got a bit glued on... so hopefully you won't have as much trouble.
Please note that the pump I have has a flay pulley - not the more bell shaped one your pump has. So getting the SIR tools puller is probably the best option. Failing that take the pump to the dealer and ask them to remove it. There are several panic threads on this forum of people saying that the bloody pump won't pump after a rebuild. To stop this from happening you need to make sure that the little shuttle valve is perfectly clean - actually it is best to make sure that everything is clean! Here's a good trick for draining the power steering fluid:- http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2604834&postcount=5 And the pictures to go with are (in post #6):-
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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I used the engine as a pump to flush the P/S unit, a bit messy tho.
Unhook the return line at the end of the line near the pump and have a container there. Have a helper start the engine, the fluid will pump out, keep it filled. When done replace the filter and top off. If you didn't let it "dry out", there won't be any air in the system. If so, simply turn the wheel back and forth, almost all the way, to work the air out.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#10
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Thanks a lot guys, all the info and everything was a big help. I'm going to try to do this job this week, wish me luck...:-)!!
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#11
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Ok folks I'm back here with more questions.
I'm stuck trying to take the nut out of the pulley. Before I try putting more torque on it I would like to make sure I'm twisting it to the right side. So my question: Does it unscrew clock or counter clock ? Thanks again for the help |
#12
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Quote:
It might have been easier to undo with the pump in the car and belt attached. (Sidebar note: this may be why some people recommend AGAINST using the P/S nut to turn the engine in valve adjustments since you now torque down that nut.) It's important to not damage or distort the pulley. Can you grip the flat part of the pulley with a large crescent wrench or channel-locks? Do you have a spare belt that you fashion into a strap wrench? Maybe put the belt onto the pulley, clamp it down, hold the clamps and unscrew the nut? The FSM torque for the nut is 50 Nm. |
#13
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where are you located?
I've had PS leaks before, I just swap in a pump from another car. (I have about 20 at the moment...)
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#14
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Quote:
But the FSM says you can replace it. You might be able to get a replacement from the dealer. The next issue is where the rest of the bushing went. Probably time for a P/S fluid flush to clean the crud out of the steering box. The filter may have caught some of it, but I'd still R&R the fluid. |
#15
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Thanks guys!!
I'm facing other problems here....so if somebody could give me a hand... Basically I was able to take the nut out (with a lot of torque) and I also was able to take the pulley out with a puller and again lots of torque. Now I'm not sure about the back of the pump. There is a metal ring holding the whole thing together and I'm afraid of damaging it trying to take if off. Picture 1 shows the back of the pomp picture 2 is a close up to show the metal "ring" in detail. Picture 3 is a hex screw that I was unable to take out also. I wonder if there is any seal I should change there. If not I will not mess with it anymore because the hex is getting round ![]() Again guys thanks for the hand...I really need it!! |
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