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Balancer problem
Sorry for the bad pic. I noticed that the stud that the tach pickup uses is shiny and has what appear to be score marks on it. The tach works OK and I can't see anything obvious when it's running I've heard about a recall on the balancers on the W116 300SD's (I think) so this is worrysome Should I shut it down until I get the proper socket to check the balancer bolt? The cutout to the left of the "stud" is also strange to me (Not where it was drilled for balancing, farther left in the pic.) Maybe the tach pickup vibrated out of position a little? I figure if it hit hard it would have damaged something. The scrubbing looks like it's pretty recent. Thanks.
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#2
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You need either a deep 27mm socket or a shallow one with a stubby extension to reach the crank shaft bolt. For the first time you attach this it might be worthwhile attacking the problem from under the front of the car...
If you are waiting for a socket and need something to do - remove the tachometer sensor and see if the bottom has indeed been scratched. You could also remove the drive belts from the pulley and feel if you can wiggle the crankshaft pulley.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Quote:
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
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Indeed - I agree. Just in case you don't know a good rule of thumb for tensioning a belt is to adjust the pulleys until you can turn the longest stretch of the belt by 90 degrees. You should be able to do this with relative ease - don't tighten like a piano wire!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Sorry, I lost you there?
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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
#6
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A better "rule" would be to use a tension gauge. First time you do that, you will be convinced of the worthlessness of the various shade tree methods.
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#7
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True true but then it wouldn't be a rule of thumb anymore - can you recommend a decent tension gauge?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Quote:
http://www.********.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=101690 |
#9
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I've never uses a tension gauge, I just tighten until it's "good enough".
But, if you think about the stresses that belts put on your crank hub and bearings on driven components it's not a bad idea to make sure it's right.
__________________
My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD |
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