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  #1  
Old 06-06-2011, 10:48 PM
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leaking fuel....

I just realized I am leaking diesel fuel on 1993 300D. It is dark now so no diagnosis today but it is leaking somewhere under driver side and not engine. Almost like at the middle of a car and it is leaking extensively. Any suggestions. I just had mechanic replace radiator and do my rear suspension. Does that have to do anything with this???

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1987 Mercedes 300D 3.0

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  #2  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:01 PM
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Probably you have a rusted fuel line that has cracked. Find the leak, break the pipe & put a bit of flexible hose on as a joiner.
I hope you have something catching the fuel! & the tank has been drained. Its too $$$$ to let run down the gutter!!!!
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
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  #3  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:02 PM
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There should be metal tubing from the driver side of the engine bay back to the tank. If you are leaking between, look for damaged tubing.
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  #4  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:26 PM
sjh sjh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Probably you have a rusted fuel line that has cracked. Find the leak, break the pipe & put a bit of flexible hose on as a joiner....!
Would you be comfortable doing that as a permanent 'fix'?
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  #5  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:29 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by sjh View Post
Would you be comfortable doing that as a permanent 'fix'?
I wouldn't. I would replace the line; probably both lines.
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  #6  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:33 PM
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What kind of lift does your mechanic have?
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  #7  
Old 06-07-2011, 04:13 AM
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damnit just fixed one thing then the other broke. How much would fuel line cost??
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  #8  
Old 06-07-2011, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariod View Post
damnit just fixed one thing then the other broke. How much would fuel line cost??
If you get an original bit of pipe from the dealer they can be quite expensive - I mistakenly thought a dealer piece would come pre-bent. It didn't.

It might be worthwhile checking the rules and regulations for your location - some people advocate attaching a flexible pipe for the whole length of the hard line but that might not be a legal fix. I'm guessing there is more of a problem with brake lines though.

For my car I ended up replacing the return line with a copper line. This was really easy to bend in shape - which is quite handy on a W123 as the lines go under the rear subframe. I guess this will be a similarly difficult spot on your more modern car.

Try asking the sponsors of this site for a price for the fuel line - a price guide of the costs in Europe probably won't help!
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2011, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjh View Post
Would you be comfortable doing that as a permanent 'fix'?
That would depend on the location of the broken line & the condition of the remainder of the line. Normally if its rusted in one spot, its probably bad in other places as well. If the line was good & it only had 1 spot of mechanical damage then the use of a short piece of quality flexible hose with suitable clamps would be a option for a permanent fix. My suggestion was to get this member out of trouble until he could have the fuel line examined properly.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2011, 09:38 AM
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Location: Nottingham (nr Sherwood Forest..)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjh View Post
Would you be comfortable doing that as a permanent 'fix'?
Yes, had to do it to both of my T's, the pipes rust through at the first rubber retainer, its happened on three out of four lines on my cars. Extending the length of the rubber from 6 to 18 inches has had no detrimental effects on either car. Used rated fuel line obviously.

Obviously if the pipe is rusted elsewhere it would be sensible to replace that pipe, as mentioned copper/cunifer would be a better solution than mild steel. I used an MB pipe on the first one, it is not pre-bent and was a nasty job to fit. Didn't bother again.

cheers
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  #11  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:29 AM
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the above question on type of lift used by the shop that changed your parts would be valid.
the fuel lines go in at the bottom of the frame rail, a mistakenly placed lift puck could easily account for a damaged fuel line.
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2011, 04:21 PM
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Got it fixed it was a fuel line cracked but by the time I acted to fix it I lost almost half of tank of diesel . Thank you all for help.

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