what do you mean? I know the automatics do a second gear start. First is to just get the car going.

I still need to figure out this issue.

Three speeds work just as well as four speeds. Just don't stop on steep hills.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Is this problem only occurring when you attempt to shift into First from Neutral? Can you smoothly downshift into First?

I didn't try down shifting into 1st.

I just don't want any more issues. I am going to call my mechanic tomorrow and see what we can do to fix the issue.

Soonest I can get to him is next Tuesday.

My step dad drives a large bread truck every day so he should be fine with just 3 speeds. With the aveo issue I am loosing more faith in myself with cars

If you had rebuilt the trans and it had failed, that would be one thing. This falls under the category of *hit happens...

I would still get the top hat bushing ASAP and, if the trans needs to be pulled, this would be a good opportunity to renew the bushings.

I guess I will have to get the top hat bushing tomorrow. I'll call my usual parts guy and them Pierre. I just can't have the car out of commission ya know. My step dad has to drive to work 5 days a week at 2am

Question to the board re: 240D 4-speeds: Any relationship between engine/trans mount condition and transmission shifting characteristics? Would one or more bad mounts create a transmission vs. shift linkage alignment issue and cause linkage binding, and/or failure of the linkage to fully engage a gear?

....sounds reasonable to me.......if the mounts are bad, then the motor/gearbox could possibly move enough to cause problems.

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I choose to be happy, even when the Mercedes is being awkward, lol

Since they are suspended together I do not think so..
but when you are up under there to put in the linkage bushings .. it is generally easy to set the alignment ... usually one moves the arms to a place with will allow the placement of a pin or something... a starting point...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

someone (honestly, it wasn't me!) put manual tranny fluid in my gearbox because it was low when i got it ... and then i lost the ability to go into second.

once i got control of my car ... i fixed that error and put in some nice high end redline. i have all the gears again. but second is still a pain. i think the synchro was broken off it awhile ago.

what i'm trying to say is ... do you have the right gear oil in there? helpful mechanics are not always working for your best interests.

I need to change the gear oil. I just inspected the flex discs and center carrier bearing and all are good.

How do I remove those clips on the end of rod so I can put those bushings in. Should I put the bushings in hot water to soften them for easier install?

Glad I still have my haynes manual for the w123. Looked in the trouble shooting section and for difficulty engagning gears it lists

1) clutch not releasing completely
2) loose, damaged, or out of adjustment shift linkages
3) input shaft bearing seized

for slipping out of gear

1) transmission loose on clutch housing
2) shift rods not working freely
3) dirt between transmission case and engine or misalignment of transmission
4) worn or improperly adjusted linkages
5) work synchro units.


I will have to get those bushings on the ends. I need a 6mm diameter rod to put into the alignment holes for the shifter fingers.

I do not envy you if you rebuild that shifter. I just rebuilt the one for my parent's 240d. The auto shifter is a BREEZE compared to the 4spd. This one has two cupped spring washers, plus two flat washers that you have to get into place, then align in order to insert the main shifter rod.

So, if you're going to take it apart to replace the main "tophat" bushing, go ahead and look at EPC, get all the rest of them. There's a trapezoidal one, then a nylon plug that sets inside the rod assembly. Also a dampening bushing that fits around the lever shaft...


Yeah, I spent about $45 on parts for the rebuild. But it feels brand new and I won't have to take it apart for a while.

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

well right now I just have the proper bushings for the shift rod ends on the shifter end. I am not sure how to remove those clips soo that is what I need to know.

Oh... those are easy.

Flat head screw driver in them and slide off the end of the rod.

__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter