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  #1  
Old 10-13-2011, 09:38 PM
79Mercy's Avatar
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W123 Lemforder Guide Rod mounts poorly made

I just rebuilt the front suspension of the 1985 300D about 3 weeks ago. I used Lemforder guide rod mounts, i believe the box said made in India.

A MB tech once said not to use the silver guide rod mounts, and to only use the gold colored GRM's. I couldnt find the gold colored ones so i used the silver. The dealer wanted wayy to much for GRM's.

Well low and behold they make a random popping sound every now and then.

We all know how hard it is to replace these mounts, the springs must come out.

So i wonder if my little idea will work. Here it is;

Drill and tap a small hole in the back of the guide rod mounts, install a grease nipple and pump those suckers full of grease.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #2  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:54 AM
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Stuff like these, I try to save up for and get them at the dealer. They may be pricey but so far the ones we installed (no need to drop the springs, there was a way around it) have been fine.

IIRC these were the "gold" ones.
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  #3  
Old 10-14-2011, 07:41 AM
Bengoshi2000's Avatar
1991 300D 2.5 Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
Well low and behold they make a random popping sound every now and then.

We all know how hard it is to replace these mounts, the springs must come out.

So i wonder if my little idea will work. Here it is;

Drill and tap a small hole in the back of the guide rod mounts, install a grease nipple and pump those suckers full of grease.
I replaced mine two weeks ago with Myele mounts, also silver, also getting the same occasional pop (which is why I tore down the suspension to begin with)!!! To say that I'm pi$$ed undermines the concept of the word.

Granted, the new mounts are better in all respects than the originals (which were completely shot), but this sub par quality issue is just plain unacceptable.

Your grease nipple mod sounds good... If it works please let us know!!
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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
--------------------
1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
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  #4  
Old 10-14-2011, 08:07 AM
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I fitted 2 febi mounts around 18-20 months back. Both are now bad, ie I get a LOT of thump from them when driving on unmade roads (which I do every day).
You don't have to remove the springs tho; just tie the back of the car to something, then pull 'em forwards far enough...
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  #5  
Old 10-14-2011, 08:53 AM
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Silver or gold is just what plating was done on the metal before they were made. The important thing is the seals. If water gets in, they are soon loose & thumping.
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  #6  
Old 10-14-2011, 11:15 AM
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Anyone have a MERCEDES PRICE for the guide rod mounts and the two other bracket bushings?
Everybody must have these front end noises. I have an appointment on Wednesday to take a look.
I wouldn't mind trying to get the brackets at the Pick & Pull and rebuilding them, instead of tying up the lift while re-doing the originals.
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2011, 11:52 AM
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^^^^Ryan Z: Last time I checked, dealer list for each mount is $160. Call Phil at the site here and he can get you the best price on dealer parts. For anything over nuts and bolts, his special order prices + shipping are far more competitive than your local dealer.

As a counterpoint, I have had Febi guide rod mounts for 27 months now on the 85 300D, with 40k miles, and not a problem. I am not arguing that Febi is great by any means - on the same rebuild my Febi tie rod rubber boots rotted out in 6 months.

IMHO, I would not put Meyle anything on my vehicles in the suspension.

For the folks who are having clunking - have you checked your FRONT guide rod mount in the LCA? That can rot out and have play in it as well.
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  #8  
Old 10-14-2011, 12:02 PM
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  #9  
Old 10-14-2011, 12:37 PM
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You definitely do not need to remove the springs to R&R the GRMs. That's bad information on a DIY site, R&Ring the springs can be an extremely dangerous procedure for an amateur/home mechanic. There are at least a couple ways to get the clearance to change the GRMs, my favorite is the *ratchet strap method* to pull forward the spindle/front wheel. Like many other suspension jobs, it's no big deal with the proper skills/tools/equipment and absolute masochistic hell w/o all of the above.

I'm sorry to hear about these Lemforder mounts. The quality of all parts has been taking a schit lately, including dealer supplied parts. NOTHING is what it used to be, and I'm talking about even 1 year ago. Thank globalism for that, I guess...

That said, I would not put anything Meyle on my cars unless it was an extremely insignificant part. I have seen someone get (2) identical defective brake MCs in a row in Meyle boxes. I could probably make better parts in my bathtub.
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  #10  
Old 10-14-2011, 12:43 PM
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Oh where oh where is our angry Febi/Bilstein N.America sales exec to chime in on this thread...?
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  #11  
Old 10-14-2011, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewjtx View Post
Oh where oh where is our angry Febi/Bilstein N.America sales exec to chime in on this thread...?
the lines are down from india/china at the moment, but when back up, I'm sure they will chime in...
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2011, 01:44 PM
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At least this explains a fight I had with an alignment shop on my '82 SD, which they refused to align on the basis of the guide rod mounts being worn... about 12 months after they had been done.
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:19 PM
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I called Mercedes Parts at local dealer for prices.

Guide Mount Kit is ---------------- $162 each.
Rear Bearing Bracket Bushing is ----- $62 each.
Front Bearing Bracket Bushing is ---- $52 each.
$552 Total
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2011, 04:06 PM
79Mercy's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetrimmer View Post
You definitely do not need to remove the springs to R&R the GRMs. That's bad information on a DIY site, R&Ring the springs can be an extremely dangerous procedure for an amateur/home mechanic. There are at least a couple ways to get the clearance to change the GRMs, my favorite is the *ratchet strap method* to pull forward the spindle/front wheel. Like many other suspension jobs, it's no big deal with the proper skills/tools/equipment and absolute masochistic hell w/o all of the above.
This is very bad info. If your guide rod mounts are bad please dont try replacing them without properly pulling the spring out. The "ratchet strap method" is a accident waiting to happen, i have put the method to the test once before.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2011, 04:43 PM
Bengoshi2000's Avatar
1991 300D 2.5 Turbo
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 360
Well, when it comes to aftermarket parts, I've read bad stuff about everything... Febi, Myele, Uro. It's distressing because dealer parts are so darn expen$ive and it sounds like they are prone to the same issues. I'm glad that I have access to good beer to cope.

My clunking continues even though I replaced the LCA bushing, guide rod mounts and the mount in the LCA itself. Granted, I'm only getting it 5% of the time, instead of 100% of the time I hit the brakes. Small consolation if it starts shredding my front tires. I'm going to double-check torque settings this weekend just to be sure.

I used vstech's Klann spring compressor and I'm convinced it made this job manageable. I just don't see how one would use the "ratchet strap" method without putting severe stress on the LCA bushing. With the proper spring compressor this is as safe a repair as the shade tree mechanic can conceive of tackling.

__________________
1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
--------------------
1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
1977 Datsun 280z
1971 Datsun 240z
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