Marketing Strategy, Psychology, and AC Repair - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #1 10-22-2011, 09:25 AM

Some of you perhaps have seen the 1991 300D I have for sale. It's a really nice car, with the only obvious downside being that the AC doesn't work. As it's a recent acquisition, I have no idea what the issue is....and neither did the previous owner. It's an R12 system.

My current strategy has been to sell as is and let the new owner worry about the AC. Alternatively, I could get the AC system charged and diagnosed....and perhaps get lucky. But, especially since it's an R12 system, that's more money that I'm putting into the car. I should say that I do not have the skills to address the AC on my own.

What would you do if you were in my shoes? What are the different factors that come into play when considering what to fix, what to let go when selling a car? How much more are likely prospective buyers willing to pay for working AC....in New England?

vstech · #2 10-22-2011, 09:46 AM

what else on the car that's a/c related isn't working? is the tach operational? it could be a fuse or just low on charge... a leak of course.
I would prefer a car untouched, and not working to one poorly converted to 134.
I vote do not fix, but prepare for the buyers to want a lower price due to the potential for repairs.

dieseldan44 · #3 10-22-2011, 09:46 AM

shertex,

no shop will touch the R12, and in my experience, up north, its tough to find a shop that truly knows what its doing with AC. Even if they do, a 134a 'conversion' could be $800-1200...or more spending on whats wrong. Your R12 system could have a single bad o-ring and you'd need to spend all the money on the conversion regardless.

I am currently 'in training' in the stickied AC thread and assembling all the AC equipment to convert my 123's back to R12.

Perhaps we could meet up and do a little diagnosis as to what is wrong. If the compressor still works I could test charge your system...and if it doesnt have any leaks charge it back with R12 (which no shop will do) and you'll be good to go. If it does have leaks we could pretty quickly tell where the leak is, and then be able to put a $$ amount on how much a fix would be.

Working AC is a huge plus IMHO, even up here...

dd

shertex · #4 10-22-2011, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

shertex,

no shop will touch the R12, and in my experience, up north, its tough to find a shop that truly knows what its doing with AC. Even if they do, a 134a 'conversion' could be $800-1200...or more spending on whats wrong. Your R12 system could have a single bad o-ring and you'd need to spend all the money on the conversion regardless.

I am currently 'in training' in the stickied AC thread and assembling all the AC equipment to convert my 123's back to R12.

Perhaps we could meet up and do a little diagnosis as to what is wrong. If the compressor still works I could test charge your system...and if it doesnt have any leaks charge it back with R12 (which no shop will do) and you'll be good to go. If it does have leaks we could pretty quickly tell where the leak is, and then be able to put a $$ amount on how much a fix would be.

Working AC is a huge plus IMHO, even up here...

dd

That's very generous of you! I will send you an email.

shertex · #5 10-22-2011, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

what else on the car that's a/c related isn't working? is the tach operational? it could be a fuse or just low on charge... a leak of course.
I would prefer a car untouched, and not working to one poorly converted to 134.
I vote do not fix, but prepare for the buyers to want a lower price due to the potential for repairs.

Everything else is operational, including tach. Fuse is good.

Brian Carlton · #6 10-22-2011, 10:45 AM

As mentioned, nobody will touch R-12.

So, you spend over $1K to get the thing running on R-134.

You cannot get another $1K for the vehicle if the a/c is working, therefore, it's a bad investment.

dieseldan44 · #7 10-22-2011, 11:04 AM

shertex -

try jumpering the A/C compressor at the low pressure cutoff switch on the receiver drier. (I am familiar with the 123, 124 people please chime in if this is still valid on that chassis).

if the compressor clicks on (don't leave it running, just test it for a few seconds to see if it engages), then it's at least worth a coming up here for a test-charge and seeing where (if any) leaks are. I have a halogen leak detector that makes that easy. if it is not leaking, then we can charge it with R12.

if the compressor doesn't kick on, verify there is 12V getting to the compressor at the compressor electrical connection. if not 12V is present, then it;s an electrical issue. if 12V is present, then the compressor is probably seized...which would probably put it into the 'its not worth it' category.

shertex · #8 10-22-2011, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

shertex -

try jumpering the A/C compressor at the low pressure cutoff switch on the receiver drier. (I am familiar with the 123, 124 people please chime in if this is still valid on that chassis).

if the compressor clicks on (don't leave it running, just test it for a few seconds to see if it engages), then it's at least worth a coming up here for a test-charge and seeing where (if any) leaks are. I have a halogen leak detector that makes that easy. if it is not leaking, then we can charge it with R12.

if the compressor doesn't kick on, verify there is 12V getting to the compressor at the compressor electrical connection. if not 12V is present, then it;s an electrical issue. if 12V is present, then the compressor is probably seized...which would probably put it into the 'its not worth it' category.

Thanks DD. Forgive my ignorance....my knowledge is very rudimentary at best. So.....I turn on the car, set AC to max. There are four leads that go to the receiver drier: two to a black cap that faces up, two to a red cap that faces to the side. I assume that I'm somehow disconnecting two leads and touching them to one another. If anyone could walk me through exactly what I need to do I'd be most appreciative.

shertex · #9 10-22-2011, 11:34 AM

Is it these two leads? And is it the wires themselves I jumper or the leads on the switch?

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Climate/83-542.pdf

shertex · #10 10-22-2011, 01:18 PM

Many thanks to dieseldan for helping me make some progress. I had erroneously assumed that the system was R12 because of the labeling; in fact, it is R134a. And when I jumped the leads, the compressor worked fine.

So it may be worth my while to get the AC up and running.

Never ceases to amaze me how helpful the folks on this forum are!

sixto · #11 10-22-2011, 02:08 PM

Put a gauge on the low side to see if it's holding a decent charge. If so, it might be a wonky signal to the Klima keeping the compressor from engaging. Throw on an ice cube relay so the buyer knows it's a 'bypassable' control signal issue, not an evaporator or compressor issue. Remove the relay after the buyer sees the system works. If the buyer wants the relay, it's at his/her risk to continue running the compressor without Klima relay protection.

Sixto
87 300D

leathermang · #12 10-22-2011, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Many thanks to dieseldan for helping ....Never ceases to amaze me how helpful the folks on this forum are!

Yes, yes they are..... Good Work DieselDan44....

dieseldan44 · #13 10-22-2011, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Yes, yes they are..... Good Work DieselDan44....

....and all i have learned thus far about A/C has been through the generous folks on the forum...

get ready for questions coming your way LM in the A/C thread :-)